rgallant

Thanks guys, I was pretty sure it was, but it is nice to know before you have something shipped a couple of thousand miles.

Any ideas if they are compatible, they are both HG46 axles so they should just swap. But my mechanic says not always. Anyone done one? Yes I know a locker of some sort would be better, but I am more of a long distance kinda of guy 2 to 3 days out and back. So no crazy stuff where I need to walk out, the LSD would do for now.

I have an 97 R50 had a 2002 X, so here is my 2 cents. I would have bought another X but the cost here was significantly more, for anything in good shape. I travel mostly on old logging roads and goat tracks to get to good spots to fish. Both trucks got me there with not much fuss. The X feels more solid and at least mine sat a little higher than the R50, with a LSD in both I am comfortable going almost anywhere. I have been laughed at by guys in lifted, locked and overpowered trucks but I always seem to get by just fine. A couple of things support for Gen 1 X's is not that great, there are more options than the R50 but not a boatload. My supercharger never gave me any issues but you MUST run premium. Fuel mileage on the R50 is better. The frame is nice to have but check it very carefully for rust. One other thing here in BC X's are either in nice shape and expensive, or total junk and cheap, there does not seem to be a nice mid range.

Hi there I had both diffs, the transfer case, transmission, full steering inspection and all the front swaybar bits done (I bought the parts for that) 250.00. Make sure they check the transmission oil for gear teeth bits, found a couple of reverse idler bits in mine. As it was new to me and I have a mechanic I trust it was worth the money for piece of mind, besides now I can spend money on toys.

Nope fit my 97 with a manual just fine

The bump stop will just rattle around until I decide on where I am going with suspension. I am leaning to OME, pay the money and do it once.

Not to Hijack, but why are people exploding CV joints, down on the PCOA boards I asked this same question, they do not have any issues with 2 inch lifts and CV joint destruction. Is it simply the type of wheeling that is done or possibly the tire used ?

I did not paint them they came that way, this was a Klondike edition so it may have come that way. I don't really care as they will go for sliders at some point.

Yup I see the similarities . Have some maint issues before I can add toys, front sway bar bushings and pass side end links are shot, shocks and springs way too soft, Transfer and diff fluids need changing, oh and the left rear bump stop is sitting at the bottom of the spring. Entire front end gone over. And it is the rainy season my drive was a river most of today as was the street out front.

Here you go Note the nice Toyota symbol on the back , tires and rims mounted (used) $300.00 Rugged trail T/A 16/265/70 about 80% tread left Fit in there nice and beat the Michelin LTX the pathfinder came with

Installed mine Friday, took all of 10 minutes at my local tire shop. They were replacing a stud so it cost $20.00, beat laying under there with a breaker bar. Pathfinder feels more "solid", hard to describe but I like it.

opps my bad sorry about distracting post.

Sounds bad really was not, went of the road into snow. X was still going forward and sideways. One side grabbed and she flipped, no roll literally went from wheels to roof. Towing yard started her and moved it as far as me and the insurance company can figure and toasted the motor. Oil rings were completely gone. Would have gone WD21, but every one I look at needed a lot of work / rust removal. The one I got had the timing belt done at 156K only 218 on here now, exhaust done, front rotors and brakes, trailing arms are fairly new as well. So I can spend my money on the good stuff. Only bad thing is man is the suspension soft, but that is going soon.

Are you misfiring at all, sounds like it from your post. Could be a failing distributor, but you need to get the codes to be sure. Are your symptoms as follows : Truck starts to run bad, then SES light flickers. The light will not stays on, but eventually it clears and truck runs ok If that is pretty close to what happens it could be the distributor and you should have a misfire code stored. My xterra did exactly the same thing found a misfire code, replaced the distributor no more problems, 3 trips to the dealer and they could not figure it out.

Hi All, Here from BC just east of Vancouver. 1st Pathfinder, but lots of off road experience. Had an Xterra previous to this it went wheels up after some nasty black ice. Job change meant something a little easier on the pocket book. So here I am.

Has anyone used this product ? 4 Inch 96-04 Pathfinder / QX4 Lift Kit by Krypton Or is it very new, had my nice new rims and tires put on the other day and have one dead bump stop in the rear. So I will need to deal with the rear springs sooner rather than later.

Took a look under my hood as I am interested in this as well. It will be a tough fit there is a fair bit in the way of a clean mount, a number of things will have to be re-located as well. Just out of curiosity what sized material would be likely used, I figure I could mess about with some pvc piping an see what I could mock up.

Yup I knew someone was gonna point that out, kinda of why I need to get under there and find out what is installed.

I am not sure on the Pathfinder, but some starters have their own ground if not check all the ground wires. Take them off clean and re-seat. Now this is out there and a daylight job, but your truck sat for a few months so check your wiring harness for mouse /rat damage. Sounds funny but I had an Xterra that had an injector wire chewed through. Most times the damage is up top, they get in around the intake manifold.

If it helps from the service manual for the fuses 1 10.0 Amp fuse #8 located in the fuse block - this one apparently also controls the backup lights so you be able to check that fuse by popping the transmission into reverse and checking the backup lights. You should pop the fuse any way just to make sure it is 100%. 2 40A fusible link letter e located in the fuse and fusible link box - should be right behind the battery. My 97 has them all labeled on top.

I will need to confirm, but I have a manual transmission, as I recall if I try to start with the clutch out the deck turns off but no turn over. So it could still be the transmission park switch. If everything else works you can verify the starter electrical path by taking the starter out hooking the wiring back up then try the key. Obviously this is a two man job and you want the starter well supported to avoid damaging the wiring from a fall. If she spins then your electrical "should' be good, if not you are back to checking electrical components. Clicking is generally poor battery, failed starter, failed relay, failed solenoid or serious engine issues. You have taken care of 2 out of three, as you have mentioned no issues with the motor it should be electrical.

Thanks, that is what I thought. The struts are newish, but I think the previous owner put softer units in. Just need to get in there and get some part numbers.

Actually I read that, but it did not answer my one question. Everyone is doing some combination of springs and shock/strut replacement. I want to know if I can get away with just springs.

New to the pathfinder world, ended up with a 97. As I wanted a manual choices were limited. My question is for the lift are shocks and struts a requirement, or can you get away with just the springs ? I am in the Pacfic Northwest, so dodging through logging road cross ditches and wierd washouts are my main issues, along with the odd creek / river crossing. Thanks.