Kyle94

Ehhhh, i don't have all the tools to test that. i might be able to borrow a guage and what not.

not that i can tell... i was poking around (after it threw codes) unplugging, wiggling, moving. nothing made a difference. Smh... I dont know what it's problem is... but whatever i did made it MUCH worse.

Cleaned the TB.... Now it's throwing 4! yes 4! codes. two knock sensor codes (same codes), and the maf code twice as well. it runs like crap all the time. and barely moves unless i floor it. and then it still stumbles.... i'm really lost as to what i did. the air intake boot was cracked. but i sealed it up. no change...

Oh. It happens at higher rpms. Just not as repetitive as down low. It jumps and jolts every once in a while up above 4k as well. The cap and rotor and everything under it have brown/ red dust all over. Buut I'm getting a dizzy for 75$ soon. So that will be fixed. But since it's a warm only thing... It has be lost. That's the thing. It didn't have these problems when I bought it. It was just really dirty and the guy and his wife had brand new cars. Otherwise if it had all this crsp I woudknt have bought it. Not even for $1,800

Upon further inspection. . I drove it to work acting up. Went to leave work about five hours later and it was fine... Drive all the way home with no issues. 9miles. Fixed the clunky. Took it for a drive. Ran like sheit all over again. So it's only after it gets fully warmped up. That makes me think the dizzy isnt the culprit.

Yes... Hahaha

Turns out, the brake caliper bracket's top bolt was LOOSE. Explains the clunk in change of direction as the bracket slides to hit the other side... tightened that up and took it for a drive. i now have a taller brack pedal and no clunk under braking or driving down the road...

Remember.... when i changed my brakes and rotors.... wellll....... somehow a bolt either didn't get tightened fully/all the way, or at all, or.... the bolt on the caliper bracket. Which is probably why my brakes were getting messed up in the first place. warped my rotors.... seems to brake a little different now with the bolt tight. and the rattle i was getting with the clunk... was the washer for the top bolt on the caliper bracket... that's how loose it was. -_-

So i think i figured it out... only time will tell...... -_-

Thanks! I just saw this.

Uhhhhh, hi....... I uhhhhhh, fixed it...

Nah. It's from the front wheel. Along with the clunk. It won't make the same sound without driving it. Not even when jacked up. I woouldnt think the strut would make all that noise.

Under the cap is all brown with bearing dust. So I'm betting that is what is wrong with the whole thing... It just got really bad all at once today.

Video is set to public, so any one can watch. BUt yeah... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=577369765633489&set=vb.100000814125250&type=3&permPage=1 Don't know what it is, im gonna dig into the TB tomorrow, and IACV, and mess with a few things. but up above 2k it's better, but still has a really random miss. not throwing any codes either. soon as the torque converter locks up, you better hang on! lol

Well, driving with the window down, the clunk is accompanied by a rattle, very faint one. and is MOST definatly coming from the drivers side. so the tie rod is not what i'm hearing but im sure its still worn... back to the drawing board...

I have one from my '98. Idk if it's the same or not? The volume knob is silly sometimes. If you want it...

Truth!

My question is: WHy did you "downgrade" to XE carpet? Just wondering.. as i always preferred the SE/LE carpet... as its more plush. Looks better though for sure

cv boot clamp pliers? i will just buy a whole new boot and what not for the bellow (i think that's the name)

so we can "upgrade" to a larger turning radius? hahah.

Had some more help and....... The PASSENGER side, the part under the steering rack boot (inner tie rod?) is clunking. but if you put pressure on it with your hand and someone shaking the wheel, it goes AWAY. but also the passenger side isolator is a little worn and moves just a tiny bit. but you can feel the clunk under the boot for sure.... so does this mean i have to replace the entire rack?

Steering rack doesnt move visually. So im left to: Sway bar bushings, the inner part under the boot on the rack(?), or balljoint? Now i've got it to the point its almost dying as well.... -_-

I wish I knew this when I had my '94... It did the same thing on #2 injector... Changed the I jector nothing. Never got around to the wires...

Well that actually isn't the noise. damn. On to hunt for it some more.

One of my speakers just quit... Put new kenwoods in the front and it worked fine. The changed the deck. Haha. But since your tweeters don't work, it could be the unit itself. Or a fuse.