Kyle94

Well it was pretty..... Now it's got two(?) dented rockers. All in good fun!

No fuel filter and no leak Down test.... Yet

Nice bull bar! And is that a Jerry Can holder?

Installed a new ground cable from the battery to the alternator bracket. (terminal connector was cracked, and i figured id just replace the whole) seing if that caused any of my problems i've been having. Nope. Adjusted my tps, idle went down slightly. BUt still surges on a start most of the time. And i still get pulsation during accel.... To the shop it goes!

I give..... It's going to a shop or the nissan dealer (i think they want 100$ to look at it iirc) when i get paid tuesday.... I don't have the ability to hook it up to anything, and i've done lost my patience with it. It wins.

I saw his truck for a sale a while back on CL. I don't know if it actually got sold or what

SO far i've changed distributor, cap, rotor, and wires with known good working units. New plugs. Cleaned tb. and checkd for vacuum leaks, and the egr seems fine. ... if i could afford to change all the sensor i could think of i'd do it.

I ran all new wire and tucked it in... the stock wiring isn't that great if you want to upgrade. and using the factory amps with an aftermarket system yields crappy results in IMO...

I had decent equipment to run it back then. it was just faling apart. was a good deck. but it was just old. it sounded good though. and had lots of things to mess with.

I had one... and hated it. I mean, it sounded great, and had lots of power, when it worked. But after a while, the motor face plate, knob, and cd mech fall apart. And finding a dck that old in good shape... ehhh.

Lets see. Pioneer DEH-P8400BH, running to a cheap 400w rms Sound Storm SSL F4.400 4 channel amp for the door speakers. and an old school JB BP1200.1 mono block 600w rms x1 at 4ohms. 1200w rms at 2ohms pushing a pioneer TS-w130 12" dual 4ohm voice coil subwoofer in a vented box. We'll see how long the sub lasts. its rms is at 400. I can crank it up and make it the stereo at a party. and scare people in parking lots as they walk by and i crank it. The look on that lady's face....

Well, so far its gotten a total audio system rebuild. New "used" vg33er distributor cap and rotor. But still haven't figured out the pulsation/fluctuation. And i took it on a little adventure. My hitch acted as an anchor at one point and i almost got stranded. lol. I dug some earth out as i bashed around. damn low ground clearance!

Do not put gl-5 fluid in a Nissan trans. I woildnt even run gl4 compatible gl5 fluid. Gl4 only..

Pintle... The iacv is on the back of the manifold. Unless theres a vacuum line I missed.

i didn't clean the iacv?? not even sure which part that is. i'd look it up, but it appears nicoclub doesn't offer the fsm online anymore. and didn't have a reason to down load the fsm for a 98 back then lol. ill see if i can find a pic. but anyway, i just cleaned the TB and sealed the intake to hard tube boot.

Causing a high idle when running and an idle fluctuation when started? It runs fine otherwise. I guess I could drive it for two months or so until tax time and just take it in. I'm really at a loss as to what else to check. I've checked all the vacuum lines. Sprayed them and nothing happened. The egr valve appear to move freely. New distributor fixed the rough running problem. Need I mention the idle got higher only after I cleaned the throttle body... What the hell happened??

Anyone think an alty could cause a high idle? im not sure what else to check. and it won't throw any codes to tell me wtf is up. i really don't know.

Discovered the diodes inside my alternator are bad. It happened before I installed my new stereo system. But I thought it was something else. Turns out the whine I get is the alternator itself. I can unplug it and it goes away. Ugh. That's gonna be slightly expensive. Not sure if it's related to any of the problems I've been having with The engine or not.

I'm pretty sure it has one? I pushed up on the thing inside of it and the engine bogged down. But it's not sticky.

Timing light bought. Timed the engine. That was a pain in the Ass!! But now I need to adjust the tps since I accidentally moved it... Lol. It doesn't seem to do much different besides it comes out of od way to easy. Usually at 35-40i could accelerate a bit and it would stay locked up. Is the tps supposed to affect the idle? It's still idling about 1200 but it has more power now that the timing is on. Still goes up and down a bit when I first start it or press the gas.

..... uhhhhhh, is it the same thing as a vg30? i know there's one back by the 6th spark plug that can get messed up on a vg30. I do hear a clicking sound coming from the top/back of the intake. on the right. around the egr valve area. This is that last thing to figure to get it running right and i can figure it out!

I don't understand why it's acting like it's got an air leak. When i hit the gas when idling or driving. and let go. the idle jumps up and down a few times, then rests again. or when i start it. it jumps way up, and then down and up down and up. etc.

"our harbor freight" doesn't have them... should i say. lol.

I've read either the tb or the idle air control valve have went bad. But idk. Still searching For a timing light. Harbor freight doesn't sell them. And oreilly doesn't rent. Trying to find one from a friend to borrow.

Dizzy got here and I installed it before work and drove it. It doesn't stumble or miss anymore. But it's idling high like it was before. And the idle still goes up and down after I tap the gas. there is a clicking sound coming from back around the egr valve area as well...? It doesn't seem to be sucking gas down anymore! Lol. Old dizzy sounds like it has gravel In it.