ahardb0dy

great customer service and support also. They sent me parts for my hubs even after I told them I bought them from a junk yard, and sent the parts for free !!

changed the oil using regular filter

never heard that before about the fender antenna being for AM, where did you read that? I am only using the fender one and it works fine for FM and AM

Nissan FAST shows them as the same part

Welcome

Antenna, some Nissan radios (as well as Sony) have a dual diversity tuning system, where the radio decides which antenna has the best signal either the fender mounted one or the one in the windshield.

It's a transdapt adapter, only thing I read on their instructions was that if the adapter doesn't contact the sealing surface you may have to cut the nipple down, I didn't have any problems when I used the same adapter on my 87 hardbody, unless the JDM VG30 is different, but I doubt it. Going to check the nipple tomorrow and screw the adapter on with out the O-ring to see if it bottoms out on the nipple, still going to pick up a regular oil filter for now. Nefarious, what fitting on the end of the line are you referring too?? The hose ends I used are the socketless type that just push into the hose, none of the 4 ends were leaking at all. I was amazed after draining out the old oil and refilling it when the oil leaked out it was BLACK, looked like it was in there for 100K miles.

Today, was so pissed off almost beat the PF with a large hammer, it wasn't it's fault just so mad. I finished installing the oil filter relocation kit, filled the engine with oil (and the filter), started it and oil was coming out like crazy from behind the filter adapter, removed the hoses from the adapter, removed the adapter, cleaned where the O-ring sits, re-installed it and the hoses, started the truck and AGAIN same thing oil coming out from behind the adapter !! No idea why but I'm done with it for now, normal filter is going back on tomorrow !!

started installing the oil filter relocation kit, got the adapter on, have to remove it tomorrow because I forgot to put oil on the O-ring !!, got the hoses cut to length and the ends installed, have to pick up another length of hose to cut to put over the oil hoses in a couple spots so they don't rub on anything. The swivel hose ends are a 1" hex size, can't believe all the wrenches I have and my set goes from 15/16" to 1 1/16", no 1" anywhere, will have to pick one up tomorrow. On the sentra, replaced the steering U-joint with a better used one I pulled from a junkyard car few years ago, steering feels tighter, old joint had some play in it.

If one of the pistons hit a valve or valves you wouldn't be able to turn the engine over, you should always try turning the engine over by hand after replacing the timing belt first before cranking the engine over using the starter.

Welcome to NPORA !! You said it already, you need an alignment, I'm sure other newer pathfinder owners will reply as well hang in there.

Are you referring to the broken exhaust studs? If so that has been happening since 86.5 when the Hardbody first came out with the V6, Not sure on the V6 equipped cars as I never owned one. No idea on the warranty extension but someone on here will be able to answer that one.

had the tires rotated and balanced

This is the one I have on the front of my pathfinder, it is an original Jim Connor Racing skid plate that I bought for and had on my 87 hardbody, now on the PF, looks similiar to the one 4x4parts sells now:

I read the thread but don't recall seeing exactly what failed, I know without the pics it's hard to tell, it sounds like from what 88 wrote that the UCA's were twisted or something?? That may be why JCR reinforced the stock arms when they used them with the spacers, as I said the one's I had the spacer was welded in and the bottoms were reinforced (closed not open like the stock arms), I wheeled my hardbody very hard and never had a problem with the UCA's or the spacers. I had the torsion bars (two stage) cranked and ran 35's for a while still no problems. I will say I split the lower control arm, broke the font sway bar and ripped it's mount off the frame, def wasn't easy on the truck.

The original Jim Connor Racing suspension lift kit A-arms, which were modified stock arms with a spacer welded in and the open bottom reinforced worked fine when I had them in my 87 hardbody and I beat the hell out of the truck, never had a problem. The suspension lift arms sold today are tubular and do not use a ball joint spacer as they changed the angle of where the ball joint mounts compared to the stock arm. As for installing spacers, it is easy to replace the upper control arms on the Nissan pickups and pathfinders as the lower control arm is where the torsion bar is attached too, what that means is the upper arm can be removed with out having to worry about the suspension moving from being under the tension of the torsion bar. This also applies to removing the upper ball joints, to install the spacers you would need to unbolt the upper ball joints from the upper control arm, move the arm up and out of the way, lay the spacer on top of the ball joint, lower the arm back into position and re-install the new longer bolts.

I would still investigate to see if something is bent first before using a "bandaid" fix of longer bolts.

The oil filter can also contribute to noise, On my Sentra I used a Napa Gold filter one time and the engine was ticking worse than it ever did, swapped it out for a OEM Nissan filter and the ticking stopped. I usually use OEM or Purolator Pure One filters no ticking with either.

than you should replace the damaged part instead of working around it with the alignment Oh, the A-arm and control arm is the same thing

How thick of a shim (s) does he want to put in there??? Your alignment shouldn't be off that much where he would need 1/2" longer bolts, unless the truck was in an accident or something.

Good deal, glad you figured it out

The starter relay is under the hood on the pass. side inner fender (Blue), what did you unplug near the battery that you jumped? If you jumped something and it starts it sounds like power is not going from the ignition switch through the starter relay. If you can swap the starter relay for another blue one from somewhere and see if it starts, almost all the relays that are the same color are the same ( if they physically look the same, there is another one I've seen that also is blue that is different but it looks different too) Did you check the fuses? Any blown? Any signs near the fusible links near the battery that anything may have melted? Per the 95 FSM, the top row of fuses, far right is shown having to do with the gauge cluster and the radio, may want to check that one.

Not done yet but tonight finally ordered the hose and ends for my oil filter relocation job

My step daughter told me last night the brakes were making noise, than I heard her pull the truck in the driveway and it was grinding very bad, went out and checked quick and one of the rear rotors had some nice grooves in it. Today pulled the rear tires, the dr. rear rotor, outside only was shot, pad was down to the rivets but the inside pad and both on the pass. rear were fine, maybe the caliper was sticking?? Pulled the calipers and mounting brackets off, removed the rotors, called Oreily auto parts, they didn't have the parts in stock but said they could get them from another store by 4:30 so I told them to go ahead. Picked up the parts and installed new rotors and pads, and also replaced a broken stud on the pass. rear, all back together and stopping good. I hear a rubbing sound from the drivers rear, took the tire back off, removed the caliper and greased the upper pin, re-assembled. Hopefully after driving a couple days the noise will go away. Not on the Pathfinder but on my sentra, removed the front struts and replaced the top strut mounts, Alignment scheduled for Monday morning.

I don't recall where I got my latest version (think someone sent it to me) but I have a very up to date copy, it even has the new NV van (truck ?) in it. Says it is 2012 version.