ahardb0dy

You can take the hubs off and turn the front driveshaft by hand with the transfer case either in 4 high or 4 low and the half shafts should turn, if not there may be a problem with the front axle. If you are replacing the IFS soon anyway, and you are taking the hubs off anyway, might as well clean them again with some brake clean, see if they engage without any grease, you should be able to turn the driveshaft by hand with the 4x4 engaged with the hubs on and the tires should turn. Just as I said make sure you turn the tire a complete revolution before you try to see if the hubs work by turning the driveshaft, you should be able to hear the hub engage.

Welcome to NPORA !! The axles will spin when in 4wd with out the hubs, but of course the tire won't turn, as you know the locking hub is what locks the axle to the hub causing the wheel to turn when in 4wd. You should be able to take the auto hub off the truck, and looking at the inside you should be able to press the inner gear in so it meshes with the outer gear, if the inner gear won't push in than that is your problem. Also when greasing the hubs too much is not better they only require a light coat of grease to function properly. When engaging 4wd make sure the front tires make a complete revolution or sometimes the hubs won't lock, Usually to test the 4wd I will find some dirt or sand, engage 4wd and do a quick power brake to see if the truck digs down or if just the rear tires want to spin, easy way to tell from inside the truck, I wouldn't go crazy power braking but a quick test will be ok. It is possible that "brake A" and "brake B" are worn, see diagrams below: You can download the Factory Service Manual from the garage section for free, You can upload your pictures to tinypic.com, that is what I use, after uploading you just copy the code on the left side of the page that says " for forums and message boards" and paste it into your post.

It is sad of course, I want to know what a 72 year old was doing removing a tranny by himself anyway ?

O2 sensor was replaced about 15K ago, Don't think the Cat is clogged the truck runs great and as I said the engine feels very strong. Thanks for the info will check things when I get a chance.

I never use the tiny factory jack but I do have a nice bottle jack from a F-550, not saying where that came from, but now the stupid "free" jack is leaking from the top so I'll have to get another one. No idea what the capacity is but I'm sure it's way more than the Nissan needs. Would be nice to have a garage with a level slab but living in a mobile home I don't have that convenience, would love to have one but for now I work outside. Off topic one second, this is in my friends garage when I installed the short shifter in my sentra and this is about the biggest angle I've had the car off the ground and was working under it: Back on topic, sorry

After lowering the truck onto the jack stands, as an extra safety precaution I always leave the jack in place. My driveway is at an angle so anytime I have to jack up one of my vehicles higher than normal I will park the vehicle across the driveway, one side in the road so it is sitting level, I just feel more comfortable that way rather than being under the vehicle when it is jacked up and on an angle. Working on the exhaust or removing the shifter in my sentra the car has to be pretty high where I can get under it, I also always give it a push to make sure the car is on the jack stands where it isn't going to slip off. Placing the wheel/tire under the truck is also a good idea as was mentioned, if the truck does fall at least it will land on the tire first. And always chock the tires that are staying on the ground, us whatever you have if you don't own chocks, I use paving bricks, a flat shovel works real good too.

He forgot to tell you to put the lower spring back in, nothing like making a video when you have a cold. I also like how he refers to the parts as "him", I couldn't listen to this guy more than a few minutes. He shows basically how to do the job, I would not rely on the self adjuster to properly adjust the brakes once finished, you can install the new shoes with the self adjuster loose, than with the tire on to allow you to spin the drum easier the shoes should be adjusted using the star wheel from the backside until they drag slightly, that is how I do it anyway.

Never pull up when loosening lugs you will hurt your back, always push down

Some aftermarket ball joints will have a screw in plug where the zerk fitting would go and they will include the zerk fittings, than you have to remove the plug and install the zerk fitting, but some aftermarket ball joints are sealed and do not need grease.

I will tell you this, and this is based on experience, Get the gasket from Nissan !! The OEM gaskets are the BEST, I had used multiple aftermarket gaskets when I had my old hardbody and everyone leaked or blew out, the OEM gaskets are a multi layer metal gasket with a ring in the center that when tightened crimps down, nothing else comes close to them.

Yesterday, replaced the positive battery terminal, negative one will be done today maybe.

The rubber bumpers that Nissan sells now look to be a better material than the original ones. The ones that were in my 90 sentra were white and looked like pieces of a broken lifesaver lying on the floor, very brittle. The new ones I ordered from Nissan were a greenish color kind of like a poly material. I ordered extra to keep one in the car since the clutch pedal as well as the brake light switch uses the same bumper. I also noticed my brake lights were on one day when I parked and walked around the back of the car. For the price good to have extra's part number is 46512-H0101 $3.03 each from an online dealer probably similar price from Rob on here

there is nothing on the torsion bars that needs to be lubed, the rear adjuster doesn't move it just holds the bar at a set preload, when the lower control arm moves up or down the bar just twists, The only thing with the bars that is advised is when removing them or installing new ones is to cost the spines with some grease so they don't seize when if ever they need to be removed again. The noise going away when the truck's height was raised than the noise coming back when the torsion bars settled is something I'm trying to figure out. The height shouldn't make a difference really as far as causing a squeak/noise. You don't have the truck near you at this time I guess, next time you see your truck, how much space is there between the upper control arm and the bumpstop?

I'm sure we have someone close to you that may be able to check it out with you.

Some noises are to be expected, it's a truck after all, I know noises can be annoying though

Plugs are NGK V-groove replaced at 185,806 miles, now at 211,150, normal heat range, didn't ask for anything special when I bought them. Cap and rotor look ok but were on the engine when I bought it, should be replaced I guess, engine runs great and is strong. Never have checked the timing, Will have to check the TB, I have one ground wire off, others should be on, have an extra 4 gauge ground from a starter bolt to the frame. Engine is JDM but has my US TB on it as JDM TB did not have provision for cruise.

It's smelled rich since I had the JDM engine installed, so I don't think it's bad gas. I cleaned the MAF sensor not too long ago, new O2 sensor a while back also. Don't think any vacuum lines are off, the engine runs perfect just smells like it's running rich. I hear ya on the Miata, I got to drive one back to the shop (from a dealer) when they first came out, barely fit in the thing !! My daily commute is 38 miles one way, 95% turnpike driving, usually running late so normal speed is 75-80, sentra is averaging about 29 MPG, it's a 90 with almost 250K on it and no internal engine work done to it at all, I did replace the stock 4 speed manual with a new 5 speed though.

That's why I drive my Sentra to work, I can afford to fill it's 13.2 gallon tank once a week !! PF gets better MPG than my old hardbody I can say that, the HB got around 9-10 MPG if I was lucky, with it's non OD automatic, 4.62 gears and 33's !

The Moog UCA bushings on the rockauto site look like they are poly, if not they are synthetic rubber, I would still spray each one down and see what happens

will it shift if you start out in "1" than shift to "2" than into "drive" ? No OD either on the 87 trannies.

yup smells like $'s, get's real crappy MPG too!!

I would spray each bushing with WD40 one at a time, cycle the suspension manually, ( push down on the fender/bumper a few times to make the suspension move) than go for a test drive where you know you hear the noise, keep doing it until the noise stops. The usual culprit for front end squeaks is the upper control arm bushings, especially if they are poly bushings. Where are you from by the way? Anybody (forum member) near by you that possibly can assist you with this? If the dealer won't help you go above the dealer.

so why does my truck smell like it's running rich? I checked the codes and got "55", so what else would make it run rich? Thanks

THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD DO IS make sure it was actually HIS truck !!. Would suck to start making plans and doing repairs on a stolen vehicle.

I lubed mine with WD40, and although I was told it is not a good lubricant for this it worked and still works great, have to hold onto it when you open it or it will swing all the way over on it's own. I would not go wacking the hinges on the body, you can try to loosen the mounts on the body and have someone lift up on the carrier than tighten the bolts. Lube the latch and the part the latch mates into also to make sure it is latching completely. Check the rubber where it contacts the body and make sure the little plastic "ramp" is still on the top of the bumper that guides the carrier into the latch.