ahardb0dy

it may still be the fluid level sensor, though it moves freely doesn't mean it's working. Don't see anything in the FSm specifically for checking the sensor. Did you check the plug for any corrosion? Try cleaning the contacts or scraping them maybe?

I hope there is more room to get to the hoses than there is on my 90 sentra, when I pulled the fuel pump (after saying I was going to for a year !!) to check the fuel level sender there was just enough room to grab the hoses with a pliers to get them back on the metal nipples when I put the fuel pump back in. If there turns out to be a leak in the metal of the tank, I had good luck with that 2 part gas tank sealer putty, years ago in my hardbody half of one of the rear add-a-leaf springs broke and fell out, putting a hole in the side of my gas tank, friend told me about that putty, I put it on and never had another problem with it leaking.

pics?

stereo went out yesterday on my way to the Dr., no sound unless I turned the volume up to about 25 than distorted, today pulled the radio (old 1994 model Alpine cd player with Alpine EQ), tried bypassing the EQ to see if it would make a difference, it didn't, ran a new RCA cable to the amp (Alpine 4 ch) to see if the cable was bad, no difference. Pulled the amp and hooked it up to another radio using my power supply in my shed, same result as when it was in the truck, Conclusion amp took a crap. Hooked up another amp ( Yamaha 4 ch), wasn't working right so I pulled it back out. Working on a trade with a guy on car audio forum for a Cerwin Vega 4 ch amp in trade for some old car audio magazines I have. so no stereo for a while, at least the one in my sentra works and that is what I drive 98% of the time anyway.

I guess depending on where you live, if they salt the roads and the amount of maint. you do, anything will rust

my new JDM engine after it was installed I was getting a code turned out it didn't have that temp sensor, I had to take it from the old engine than remove the jumper in the connector and it plugged right in. Sorry back on topic, have this deleted if you want

is that un connected plug near the back of the intake manifold for the exhaust temp sensor or is it the EGR temp sensor?

the rubber bumper you should be able o find at any junkyard or just buy one from dealer can't be too much, part number 65822-05S60 $5.18 online Nissan dealer

You need to look at the torsion bar adjuster and see how far it is sitting below the cross member, if the adjuster on either side is tucked up into the cross member than you will have to re-index the bars. If the adjusters are sitting like this / \ than you will have room to adjust them more. Anytime you adjust the torsion bars you should get an alignment, unless you have crappy tires and don't care. The other problem with raising the front of these trucks is the higher you go the less travel the suspension will have to move downward. Look at the space between the bottom of the upper control arm and the rubber bumpstop under it, if the upper control arm is already sitting on the bumpstop you have the front end cranked too high. The less space between the upper control arm and the bumpstop the less downward travel the suspension will have to move. You can replace the bumpstops with low profile ones available from Energy Suspension as well as other companies. Also the higher you make the front the stiffer the truck will ride. Aftermarket torsion bars are good because they tend to hold the "cranked in" lift longer compared to stock, the amount the front end settles will also depend on how much you drive the truck and how much you go 4 wheeling.

i use this site for all my conversion needs: http://www.onlineconversion.com/speed_common.htm

Sounds like a good deal !

Grille is painted. cleared, waxed and installed pics below, didn't come out perfect but it looks ok, no more gap against the corner lights either:

Re-installed the rear wing, painted it gloss black with clear, new SS screws: Swapped out the grille from the one I have with the lights in it to the Hardbody grille that I painted (was Chrome, Thanks to EZlife for the grille !), Truck is close to the house and there is a car behind it so I had to take angled pics for now, it looks pretty good and no more gap against the corner lights:

You can use a regular oil filter adapter, and on the "out" port add a short nipple and a "tee" to install the oil temp sender, for oil pressure I would use the port where the stock oil pressure sender is, I prefer mechanical gauges and that is how I did the oil pressure gauge on my sentra. I know some on here prefer the electric gauges but that is just preference. If you use one of those "sandwich" adapters, the kind used to add a external oil cooler but keep the stock filter location, I don't know if it would be a good idea to use the "sandwich" adapter with a oil filter adapter. I would look for a normal spin on oil filter adapter, run your oil lines to the oil filter mount and look for a filter mount that has the 4 ports on it, than use one of the ports for the oil temp gauge sender. Summit Racing, Jegs, E-bay as well as numerous other places sell the parts needed individually. the filter adapter and mount use a 3/4/16 thread and I wouldn't use smaller than a 1/2" port. For the filter mount you can use (this is from Summit Racing), Perma cool part number 1791. Wix part number 24764, Earls part number 2277ERL, These run from $28.35 to $65.97 and are all single filter mounts. For the sandwich adapter you can use (again from Summit Racing), Hayden part number 205, Earls part number 510ERL, Perma-Cool 181, Flex-a-lite part number 3961. Trans-Dapt part number 1313, and so on, some of these have 1/2" ports some have 3/8" ports. For the oil filter adapter (from Summit Racing again), Trans-Dapt part number 1016, Perma Cool part number 111, Perma cool part number 2791 (4 ports), Trans-Dapt part number 1413 (4 ports), Derale Cooling part number 15703, and so on.

Did you mean to say the pulsation/fluctuations you get are when your not on the throttle? If so there probably is build up on the edges of the TB buttefly, the butterfly is designed to let some air through when it is closed so the engine can idle, if the edges of the butterfly are dirty the small gap where air can get through would be restricted and air may not be able to get through causing the bad idle.

That pipe was missing when I bought the truck from my buddy.

I only added that site because he has a lot of pics showing the VG30E that he removed.

I think JKU stands for the Newest Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Your lower control arms are angled down pretty good in that pic !! It must ride rough the way it is now. You can raise the front more as I said by replacing the bump stops under the upper control arms to the low profile ones but it will have almost no downward suspension travel, these trucks don't have very much to begin with. It will ride even worse the higher you make the front end.

Rob, I'm sure the Rebuilt starters that Nissan sells are a much better quality than the overseas parts but do you see a higher return rate with the OEM rebuilts compared to the original OEM starters? Or no difference in how long the rebuilts last?

Here are a few of my JDM VG30E: Here is a good link to Nissanut's web site when he swapped in the VG33, lot's of pics and comparison pics between the VG30 and VG33 parts: http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/

Make sure the hand brake lever is actually down all the way, press the button on it and see if it goes down any further. I would check as Rob said also.

Do you have or can you take a pic showing both lower control arms and how they are sitting now? Are the springs you installed in the rear new? if so they will probably settle slightly. But if you already have the front cranked up and the upper control arms are close or sitting on the stock bump stops than you could replace them with the low profile ones to get more lift. The truck will ride very stiff though.

Sorry was not clear, I usually will post a diagram but I got that info from the 94 FSM and you have a 93, You should download the 94 FSM under the garage section, I'm sure 95% of the info will be the same for your 93, well except for the dash, where yours is square and after 93 is the rounded style, but the mechanical parts should be about the same.

See here some good info: http://beergarage.com/PathStarter.aspx