ahardb0dy

Yes you definitely won't have heat if you have air in the system, I just replaced the thermostat on my 94 and at first forgot all about the bleeder bolt, than remembered it and bled the air out, now have heat real good. The plastic radiator reminds me of when I was working on the Infiniti Q45 we used to have, I was working on the knock sensors and was leaning on the top of the radiator and broke the top inlet (outlet?) right off, the replacement radiator I bought was metal.

You don't want to turn the wheel just pull on it and wiggle, remember to leave the nut on. I use spring compressors when needed and jack stands too ! Not 6'10 either lol

Yes that is true per the 1988 brochure the 3 tires sizes are what has been mentioned, there are only 2 gear ratios listed, 4.375 and 4.625 specs page of brochure below: http://www.nicoclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/1988_Nissan_Pathfinder-13.jpg

Agree with Precise, you need to know what size tires came originally on the truck, before changing anything. PM your Vin number and I can look it up and tell you what size the truck came with when new, unless you have the tire size sticker in the door jamb.

As I said, I never had to use a puller on a Nissan, my buddies old Buick Regal was a different story, that wheel was on there and we needed a puller to get it off !!

you shouldn't need a steering wheel puller to get the st. wheel off, I have never had to use one on any Nissan. I will loosen the nut holding the st. wheel on BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT !!!!, than grabbing the St. wheel at the 9 & 3 positions, pull towards you and wiggle it slightly and it should come right off, leaving the nut on prevents the wheel from coming off and hitting you in the face !!! I forgot I also cleaned all the copper gunk off the contacts and rings on the back of the St. wheel and used new dielectric grease on the pins but it did not help.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35469-steering-wheel-contact-ring-spacers/

there is no clock spring on a 95. Try turning the steering wheel to different positions and see if the horn works, also try pulling on the top of the st. wheel and try the horn.

I checked the adapter using Momo Steering wheels and they list up to 93 as one part number and 94 and on as a different part number. The grant adapter says except vehicles with steering wheel mounted cruise or radio controls, maybe that has something to do with it.

I just replaced my dome light bulb in my sentra with an LED one, it cost more but it's very bright. In the PF I made the rear cargo light come on when the front one does with the doors

Possibly why you just had to replace you tranny

Owners manual states 35 in 4 low

Welcome, I don't think you can recalibrate for a larger tire change, haven't tried it. This was how I did the speedometer in my 90 sentra when I swapped clusters going from the stock non-tach ( used for these pictures) to tach cluster. Last time I did it my speedometer was like 15 MPH over, it's perfect now.

time for a engine block heater !

what wheel are you referring too? Does the noise seem like it's from under the hood? Does it make the noise when driving or will it make the noise if you raise the RPM's to 2500 sitting still? If the noise is under the hood, you can try spraying some water on the belt (s) to see if the noise stops. Do you have AC? Is it hooked up? Possibly the bearing in the idler pulley for the AC is shot. Do any of the belts look glazed? How old are they? Sometimes a belt sitting to low in the pulley can cause a squeal. Need more info to try and assist you, thanks.

Created a guide to adjust the speedometer ( cable driven only) and posted it in the garage section.

There is an electrical plug on the rear of the speedometer, the speedometer will not work without being plugged into the cluster: connector pic: socket on cluster where plug goes into: 6. looking at the back of the speedometer notice a copper colored disc inside of a silver metal cup seen below, pic is blurry but still can be seen, it is behind the odometer wheels and the shaft goes into it that the speedometer needle pushes on too: to adjust the speedometer you need to turn the copper disc with your thumb, so that the needle raises to a speed and hold it there, for example to make it easy I would raise the needle so it is indicating say 35 MPH and hold it from moving, pic below: depending on how far off your speedometer is reading, in this example let's say your speedometer is off by 10 MPH too high, than you turn the copper disc which will cause the speedometer needle to raise, continue to rotate the copper disc until the speedometer needle is pointing to 35 MPH, see pic below: now while holding the copper disc with your thumb which will hold the speedometer needle at 35 MPH, turn the speedometer needle to read what ever amount it is reading high or low, in this example turn the needle down 10 MPH so it is now sitting at 25 MPH, now let go of the copper disc and the needle should return back to zero. You can rotate the copper disc to raise the speedometer needle to any MPH, I usually will bring the speedometer needle to a whole number jus to make it easier to know how far from that speed the speedometer needle needs to be moved either up or down. You now need to re-install the speedometer into the cluster, make sure the plug is in that I posted pics of earlier, re-install the 2 screws that hold the speedometer into the cluster from the rear. You do not need to re-install the black bezel or clear cover at this time, place the gauge cluster into the vehicle, re-connect the plugs on the rear of it that were removed when removing the cluster, and take the vehicle for a test drive, using what ever method you used originally to determine the speedometer was off and check it again, if the speedometer is still off, you must repeat the above until you have it perfect or as close as you wish to make it, this procedure can take several times. When you are satisfied with the results, remove the gauge cluster and re-install the black bezel and clear plastic, than re-install and do one final test drive, if all is OK you are done. When the clear plastic is removed it is a good time to use some plastic polish on each side to clean and polish any scratches out of it.

This is a guide on how to fine tune your cable driven speedometer if it turns out it is off. As always make sure you have the correct speedometer gear first and if the tires are a different size than stock you may not be able to use this method to bring the speedometer back to being accurate. First step is to determine if the speedometer is correct or the reading is off, you can do this a few ways: 1. By having a friend drive next to you, providing his vehicle has not been modified at all (tire size,etc) 2. drive by one of those police MPH trailers 3. use a app on your phone that determines MPH using GPS ( this is only as accurate as the App and how accurate may be unknown) 4. have a cop check your speed using their radar gun ( not recommended unless you have a friend who is a cop !) Once you determine your speedometer is reading incorrectly you can follow the steps below to get it closer to the actual speed, keep in mind this will take more than one try and you must be careful when removing the gauge cluster as the plastic end of the cable is fragile and if it is original it may be brittle and break ( I know from experience !!) steps to calibrate: 1. Remove gauge cluster from vehicle ( not going into specifics on how to do this as each vehicle will be different, check the FSM if you are unsure how to do this) your cable driven gauge cluster should look something like this: Front: Rear: 2. remove clear plastic that covers gauges, you need to press in on the clear tab there should be four of them, two top, two bottom tab: clear plastic removed: 3. remove the black bezel that the clear plastic cover sits on, by pressing in on the black tabs, top and bottom: tab: black bezel removed: 4. remove two screws on rear of gauge cluster that hold speedometer in: one screw: other screw: 5. grab the odometer reset shaft and pull outward carefully, speedometer removed from cluster:

Saw antifreeze in the driveway day after I replaced the thermostat, traced it to a loose upper hose at the radiator, tightened the clamp and washed everything off, it looked OK, no leak I thought. Next day antifreeze on the driveway again and I can see it dripping, definitely coming from the radiator area, driveway under engine area and skid plate area were dry, no antifreeze at bottom of the crank pulley. Today, pulled the shroud, re-positioned the clamp on the lower hose, tightened, than spotted something, the brass barb fitting that the tranny fluid line attaches to on the drivers side had coolant dripping from under it, I grabbed the hose and I could move that brass barb fitting, thought that was weird than spotted the nut, removed the tranny line from that hose barb, tightened the nut, 19mm socket, it was loose, put the tranny line back on, wiped everything down, topped off the antifreeze, looked for leaks, found NONE Installed the fan shroud, topped off fluid again, bled air out, think I am done with it, test drive to storage unit than will check it again, so far nothing on the driveway !

You need to contact this guy on infamousnissan.com he did the swap and made a time lapse video showing the conversion from square dash to round, it's really cool check it out below: http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/RedAggie03/media/1992%20Nissan%20Hardbody/D21DashSwap.mp4.html?sort=3&o=221

you can buy the tools practically anywhere, this is them:

I'll need to look for my extra speedometer to take pics on how to do it, would be hard to explain with out pics. Next time I go to my storage unit I'll look for the speedometer.

isn't the front plastic of the cluster round on the 94 and square on the 93?

Are you wanting to keep your stock speedometer because you already have the cable to run it? or Are you concerned with having the miles be correct? Or both? You could take the 93 and the newer gauge clusters apart to see if possibly you could use the 93 speedometer in the newer cluster, of course even if it would fit ( may need to swap the face over, the square face of the 93 won't fit inside the round cluster), and may need to make a hole in the rear of the newer cluster where the back of the 93 speedometer would stick through so the cable would engage it. When I swapped clusters in my 90 sentra I took both speedometers out of each gauge cluster and swapped the part with the numbers so my miles were correct, but in my case both were cable driven.

those are not screw holes in the faceplate, those are the holes where the ford radio removal tool goes into. Are you planning on installing a stock Nissan radio? or an aftermarket one? If stock, you could probably get the plugs from a junkyard truck and spice them on color to color.