ahardb0dy

2 rear bumpers are available from Sterling Equipment in a double tube style, bad thing for you is they are down here in Florida, pics below:

1993 NISSAN Pathfinder (from Sylvania site) High & low beam headlamp 9004 9004SU SilverStar Ultra: The brightest and whitest light. Up to 50% brighter, up to 40% more downroad visibility and up to 50% more sideroad visibility. 9004ST SilverStar: The brighter and whiter light. Up to 35% brighter, up to 30% more downroad visibility and up to 35% more sideroad visibility. 9004EB EcoBright - Your Environmental Choice. Save Energy - Save Money. Up to 25% brighter light. CO2 reduced 9 to 21%. Gas savings $2 to $19. 9004XV XtraVision: The brighter light for upgraded performance. Up to 30% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. 9004CB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. Parking light 194 194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Front turn signal 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Rear turn signal 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Tail light 1157 1157ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Stop light 1157 1157ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. License plate 194 194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Back up light 1156 1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Front sidemarker 194 194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Rear sidemarker 1157 1157ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Dome light DE3175 DE3175LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Step/Courtesy light 158 158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Trunk/Cargo area DE3175 DE3175LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety. Instrument-general 194 194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

went to junkyard today, (lot's of pathfinders), found the pipe I needed and got it for $1, got home and installed it, filled radiator with water and bled system, I ran it with out the fan just to leave access to the hoses just in case, temp gauge went up to half!!, thermostat opened right when it was supposed to, could see water flowing by the opening for the radiator cap. Turned on the heat and added more water, checked the heat at the vent with thermometer and it was putting out 170 degrees!! Hot as hell finally !! , drained radiator and refilled, bled system again until air at vent was hot again, reinstalled fan and shroud and took it for a ride. With fan back in and driving 50 MPH temp gauge was between 1/4 & 1/2, and heat at vent was 150 degrees. Runs good. Need to drain some of the water out and put some antifreeze in. Heat should be hotter with antifreeze right? Best part was no leaks at water outlet, or any where else !!, now to replace those door hinge bushings....

Ran into a new problem today when filling the radiator, water started leaking out of the short rubber hose that connects the lower metal pipe to the thermostat outlet, tried tightening the clamp but didn't help, removed the metal pipe and discovered a few pin holes, one is outside where the rubber hose would sit. Was going to go to the junkyard to get another one but the junkyards closed in less than an hour so I wouldn't have made it. None of the auto parts stores, even Rockauto sells the metal pipe, Online dealer wants $60. I put some liquid metal in the holes and is letting it dry now but will have to hit up the junkyard tomorrow to try to get a better pipe than what I have now. I'm pissed, try to do one thing and something else goes wrong!!!

I unbolted the fan clutch, than removed the upper hose, and took the shroud and fan out together

On my 94 I removed the upper hose,fan clutch/fan, shroud and the AC idler bracket, than drained the rad and removed the lower hose.

well started to replace my thermostat today ( late today as I didn't get up until after 1:30 !!), got the old one out, the inside of the water outlet was pretty crappy looking, cleaned it all out, cleaned the mating surfaces real good and put the new one in. Going to wait until tomorrow before I add any water and flush the system. Tried to remove the pass. side drain on the engine block but I couldn't get it to budge at all so I left it. The thermostat that I took out was probably the original one, it says Nissan on it. It also says 76.5 Celsius on it which I looked up is 169.7 Fahrenheit, I checked the thermostat to see if it opened, and it did open but the temp on the thermometer I was using was way over 180, closer to 190-192 before it started opening at all!! I don't know how accurate the thermometer is, it's the kind you would stick in your vents to check air temp. Anyway will see what happens tomorrow, going to fill the system with water, let it get hot than drain it and repeat a few times before adding antifreeze the final time.

They do sell a gasket at the auto parts store although all the thermostat listings say to use silicone, I picked up a thermostat today, going to replace mine tomorrow.

in my old hardbody, it didn't have anything under the radio so I bought the piece from a pathfinder as the PF had some module under the radio, I wanted it to mount the line driver I had for my stereo inside of it. Those pockets must be hard to find, I have never seen one in junkyard.

I'll try to find a picture but in my old 87 hardbody I used to have a switch panel that fit perfectly in the opening where the ash tray goes, (after removing the ashtray of course), it fit so good I didn't even have to screw it in. I think it had 4 switches with little lights, the wiring was cool because it had 2 plugs on the back side so you could remove the switch assembly with out un wiring anything. I'll try to post a pic if I can find one. this is the only pic I could find, this one is in my friends 86 Toy, under the radio, kind of hard to see, of course If I can't find the product now doesn't do you any good, pic below anyway:

the OEM gasket may cost more but I guaranty it will last longer than any aftermarket one

I was looking on autotrader.com at pathfinders and hardbody pick ups, none of the pathfinders listed that you could see the gauge cluster (round dash only) had the indicator in the cluster, but quite a few of the hardbody's had it.

I thought I asked about this before but searched my old posts and topics and couldn't find anything, so I apologize if someone digs it right out. Was looking at the 94 FSM and noticed the gauge cluster shows the "P R N D 2 1" between the temp and fuel gauges, my 94 doesn't have this so what year does if any? And if the 94 (and also shown in the 95 FSM) doesn't have it why is it in the FSM? I mean they even go into detail with the wiring for it. I understand the diagrams in the FSM are probably the same for a few years. Pic below:

Thanks, that's one of the benefits of using relays (which you should always do anyway), the switches can be real small as all they have is a few milliamps of current flowing thru them to turn a relay on. If your going to tap off a fuse at the fuse box, you may want to check to see if there are any unused spots in the fuse box, not all vehicles have the same options so there more tan likely is a un-used fuse location.

on my 87 hardbody I had the switches mounted here:

they're all project vehicles in one way or another !!

went up to the auto parts store earlier to get a thermostat and they had just closed 20 minutes before, so will have to wait until Sunday. Will post results after I replace it, thanks

makes sense, didn't think about that.

I know this has been covered in different topics before but wanted to start my own thread to see if I can get some answers to specific questions. On my 94 PF, have a JDM engine installed in it, truck runs fine, have the (seems to be normal) low reading temp gauge, it sits about a 1/4" or less up from the bottom at all times. Grounded out the gauge sender and it went all the way to hot so that means the gauge works, Started the truck and let it run for about 15 minutes, had the air relief bolt out the whole time and had a temp gauge stuck in the hole, the only time coolant would come out is if I revved the engine a little, temp never went over 120 degrees at this point, shut the engine off and with a thick towel removed the radiator cap, no sound of pressure came out, no coolant, in fact the radiator cap felt cool, topped off the coolant and started the engine again. Checked the temp in the radiator with the same temp. gauge and it went up to the same about 120 degrees. Not sure if the thermostat finally opened but the temp of the coolant at the air relief bolt hole went up to a high of 140 degrees, but that was right before the time I think the thermostat opened, a few seconds later the coolant temp was back down at or below 120 degrees. Couldn't really tell if the coolant was circulating by looking inside the radiator, the upper rad hose didn't feel real hot, the heater hoses felt hotter, Oh I flushed the heater core out before doing any of this, some rusty water came out for a few seconds than it ran clear. Heat at the vents is warm but not "burns your hand hot" as members have said theirs gets. I Have a new fan clutch and have never replaced the thermostat, may pick one up later. Should coolant come out of the air relief hole at a steady rate normally? Thanks, let me know what you all think.

can't remember where I saw those, but I just found these: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Search/Search?searchquery=hw-fghp&cmd=Search&fctype=adc.falcon.search.SearchFormCtrl&TxnNumber=-1 you can just search google for hole plug or pvc hole plug and they will come up, check your local hardware store in the bath section also. just found this site but they are on the expensive side: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8062205

I went out to the PF to hook the light back up, plugged it in and it still didn't work, checked for power at the plug, this time with my multimeter because I thought maybe there wasn't enough voltage, but it was right at battery voltage, took the light back to my shed and hooked it to my power supply and it worked, so I knew now it was a ground problem. Cut the ground wire close to the plug and crimped a ring terminal to the end of the wire and screwed a self tapping screw under the hatch where the trim covers, stepped on the brake and it finally worked !! It's hard to see in the daylight but it's working, will check it out after it gets dark later.

I thought it had regular bulbs in it, but once I saw it was LED's and they were all out, I figured it was very unlikely that all of them would have been bad, so I had to investigate. It really didn't matter if it worked or not but I had it apart and it took removing 14 screws to take off the body and strip it down to the circuit board so I just kept going, plus we had a whole houseful the last few days (14 people (2 men the rest women and young children), so a project out of the house was like therapy for a little while, LOL I may look for a backup at the junkyard but this week a JY trip is not in the budget, and for giggles I looked the unit up online at a Discount Nissan site $268 discounted !!

Took my 3rd brake light apart to see if it had bad bulbs as it wasn't working. Did not realize it had all those LEDs in it. So unplugged the light and checked for power on the truck side and it had power. Took the light into my shed and took it apart to find those 2 rows of leds, hooked it up to m power supply and all but 8 leds worked, messed around with some of the solder joints and 4 leds on the ends came on but still had a group of 4 out right in the middle. Noticed each group is fed through a resistor. Determined the value of the resistor and went to radio shack but they didn't have the exact value resisor so I picked a package up that was slightly higher value, when I got home I found some more resistors I had that were closer to the value of the one that the light had in it, unsoldered the one I thought was bad and put the new on in and the 4 leds in the middle still didn't work. So I removed a working led from the end and one of the one's that wasn't working and swapped them. The one that was working didn't work in the middle but the one I thought was bad worked on the end now!!, So I started re-soldering the LED connections and turned the power supply off than back on and they all worked!! Re-glued the red cover on using crazy glue and ty wrapped it together to hold it tight, will try it back in the truck tomorrow and hopefully it will still work.

that valve part looks almost identical to an early GM part, you could probably just remove the gold piece and clean the end of it where it seals.

another thing that can cause a squeal is if the belt is sitting down to far in the pulley.