JamesRich

I've used walmart batteries in my quest and haven't had one last more than 3 years. I always got the best one they offered. My pathfinder had a little autozone battery in it when I bought it in 2010 and it just doesn't seem to want to quit. I put a optima yellow top in my titan 3 years ago and it's holding up good. It sits a lot since I got my pathfinder and it always starts right up. Most important though I haven't cleaned the post since I put it in there. I'm thinking of a diehard AGM for the pathy when it needs one. James

I'm not sure about r50s but on my WD21 with no body lift the only way I could get a wrench on it was through the shifter hole. The switch I bought from rock auto was shorted and blowing fuses too. I got one from local source and all is good. I had done the manual switch too but kept forgetting to turn them off. James

The belt broke on my quest and didn't bend any valves but mine has a VG33. From what I've read it's deeper valve clearance notches in the pistons that makes it non interference. Which would also lower the compression slightly. James

It sounds like you still have too much clearance between your side gears. Did you check the depths listed in the install manual? You may need thicker side shims.

I finally got mine rolling again and tried to get it dirty! Most of the trails at my camp were flooded and just kept washing the mud off. I kept looking till I found some really sticky mud and got stuck! So finally success! It's dirty! James

The locker is supposed to click when one tire is turning faster than the other. Make sure your tires are both the same size, both have equal tread depth and both have the same amount of air in them. If the side blocks are worn or don't have enough pressure on them I guess they could both slip at the same time going straight. Make sure your side washers are the right thickness too. Did you try the quick test? With both tires off the ground turn one till it locks. While holding the first tire locked turn the other one the opposite direction and it should click as it turns. Should do the same thing starting with the opposite tire. James

I finally got my flat bed trailer cleaned off and put the pathfinder on it so I can go to the muffler shop and hopefully get a Y pipe made. Poor thing looks like it's getting evicted! Now all I can do is chill and wait for the hurricane to pass! James

http://www.tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAGStore/TAGStore/tabid/71/CategoryID/379/List/1/Level/a/productid/1773/Default.aspx Got to plug my bumper! They need a new pic on their web site. James

Don't worry about that, it’s the first thing everyone does. My wife's quest broke the belt at 118k because I was too lazy to change it at 106k like the manual said. When I went look at it the first thing I did was hit the key. You never know till you try! I agree with unccpathfinder, if you don't want to spend much just replace the valves yourself. You can probably find some used valves either here or on ebay. Lap them to the seat with a drill and you'll be good to go. James

I've seen this happen too but they usually still run. They make so much noise that they make people run too! The point I was making above was the VG30 is an interference motor. It doesn't matter if it was the belt or the key way slipping, if the crank is turning and the cams are not it will bend any valves that are open. The worst thing that can happen is some of the teeth strip off of the belt and it stops turning then bends some valves. Then when you try to restart it, it starts turning again out of time and bends the rest of them. I've seen this happen on an 88 sentra. You know your in trouble when even with a new belt the engine spins over with no compression at all. James

I'm sure you will find the problem when you tear it down because no matter what caused it you have some bent valves now! Time for VG33. James

Like andreus009 said, jack the lower A arm up till it's almost level with the ground. When the arms are at full droop they are pushing the T bar to the side. I don't think removing the three bolts on the anchor will help much. The bolt that holds the lower A arm to the frame bushing has a splined head and is right behind the T bar in the anchor so it won't come off. James

A tube of silicone to seal the transfer case back to the transmission, enough gear oil for the transfer case and the trans if it's a 5 speed and a big ass jack because that thing is heavy! James

Nismo sells a 2 barrel intake for the VG motor too; I thought that was something Mr510 had come up with. They don't sell the distributor needed for the setup though. Would be easier than a fuel injection swap. James

The internals are probably the same but the case is different. The VG30 won't bolt up to a 4 cylinder transmission if that's what your looking for. James

The bell housing is different from VG30 to 4 cylinder. James

I traded them with another member for 27 splines. I watch the pick a part pretty close, if any more show up I'll grab them. The 28 splines are rare. I have 3 pairs of 27 splines now but only found that one set of 28 splines. James

Walked passed it where it's been sitting for the last 4 months and cursed out loud because I'm still waiting for the pipes to complete the exhaust! Hunting season is right around the corner and I’m without a hunting truck! James

I picked up a set of these. $72 at the pick a part for all 4! Looks to have at least 80% tread left. Cleaned them up and checked them out. No leaks, plugs, or patches. Should make a good set of summer tires once I find another set of legos. Anyone running these can shed a little light on what they think of them? James

No plan right now just don't want to pass up an axle I might need down the road. Just $180 at pick a part. I can wrap it up in a tarp and leave it under my work bench for now. So this should be a good axle for an SAS? Around the same width as a pathy rear? The wheel bolt pattern is the same too so I should be able to use all the same hubs and brakes. I found the locking hubs too. Someone took them off and left them under the hood in the battery compartment. Maybe they had trouble rolling it and figured they were hanging up. I went back and grabbed the tires that were on it, a set of yokohama geolanders A/Ts that look to have at least 80% tread left. Should make some good summer tires once I find another set of legos. I didn't have time to pull the axle today but I don't think people are lining up to grab it, I should have time. When I'm ready to SAS I'll hit up one of our members that has a plasma table for some brackets, I hear he does excellent work! Or maybe I'll drive up there and just leave everything in your driveway. Lol! James

I found another one! This time it's 81 wagoneer. No vacuum disco and it looks like it had locking hubs but someone already robbed them. I think I will grab this one as soon as I get some time. James

B is right my bumper is from KMA now TAG. The only problem I had with them was their delivery time. I was warned before so it didn’t bother me. They told me 6 to 7 weeks and it took 10 but I got a really nice and solid bumper that I'm happy with so it's all good. I made a video dragging the truck with the wheels locked and the bumper didn't even flex, it's very strong. MY1PATH had problems with a rear bumper he got from them a long time ago; he basically had to rebuild it to use it. This one IIRC cost me $765. They are cheaper than an ARB but not a whole lot cheaper. James

I've seen it done before, not that I would. You put the right size cotter pin in the oil hole on the crank journal and turn the crank in the correct direction and it will roll the bearing out. Cotter pins are soft enough to not mar the crank. I'm sure it will put a nick in the new bearing but I guess its better than a worn out bearing. My thinking is that if the bearings are worn out the crank needs to be measured to make sure it's not worn out too but if you just need to limp it along for a little while longer. James

Welding shops usually sell welding lead cable by the foot. It is fine strand cable too and doesn't have the transparent neon colored insulation on it! Don't want to make it look kiddy under the hood. Lol! James

Same vehicle, and yes it goes to the relay box then the battery. My point was that the 4 gauge cable has a 90 degree tab on it where it bolts to the back of the alternator so the cable doesn't come out the side where it would flex up and down every time the motor moved. With it going straight back behind the alternator to where ever, the only movement it will get is a slight twisting so it's not pulling on the post on the alternator. The main point I'm trying to stress is if you bolt a big stiff cable to the charging post of the alternator with a straight eye terminal on it the movement of the motor on the rubber motor mounts will continually loosen the nut on the charging post or break it off. James