JamesRich

The shaft above the pitman arm looked visibly bigger. If I get a chance I will go back with a pipe wrench to take the nut off and yank the pitman arm to see. I have snap-on sockets all the way up to I think 40 mm, its a special set for front axles, and the nut was alot bigger than that. So I guess they went that big because all the previous years were falling off! James Oh and one more question; Why cant we use the steering system from the 2wd? It has almost the exact setup as the old late 70s to early 80s Chevrolet pickups. Has anyone tried? Without the dog bone center link it probably wouldn't have the problem with twisting. I've already collected most of the parts to build my own hoohaa style center link so I'm not going to try it but it looks like it should work. I think the tie rod ends go in from under the spindles instead of on top but we could just use 4wd outer tie rods. I don't remember if the old chevys had the same steering links on the 4wd as on the 2wds though.

Ok guys, I got a manual box off of a 89 hard body. Then I went to a 93 pathfinder to pull the pitman arm and noticed the pitman arm shaft was way bigger than the shaft on the manual box. What year pathfinder has the same size pitman arm shaft as the manual gear box? The nut on the pitman arm shaft was alot bigger than the nut on my 87 pathfinder. I had checked mine to determine the socket size I would need. James

If you didnt see the dragster often you still saw it more than me! I never got to see any toys or meet any race team, but I still enjoyed the school. If the rule still stands we can go back and retake individual classes or the whole course once for free. Maybe when I retire I can go catch up on the new stuff. James

We used to hate the Phoenix campus! Lol! Y'all had all the good stuff that we were told about when we signed up like the dragster and the 1/4 mile diesel car. When I went there were only the Phoenix and Houston campus, and Phoenix was the main campus. So y'all had all the cool toys over there! We just got to work on each others cars and none of the students owned a dragster. James

Good luck and study hard. I am a graduate of UTI in Houston TX class of 88. I'm not sure about now but when I graduated the school had a very good name. Most employers were impressed that I had been there. So it's helps to have a good name backing you when you are looking for a job. I hope you enjoy the school, I did. James

Cool, any idea what shipping would be to Scott, Louisiana 70583? Its a long way from Canada. James

I never checked any names other than warn, that is a good deal. But, y'all got me wanting to spend my money on a locker right now. Y'all are a bad influence I need to stop checking this forum! I know I can't stop though! I've been reading some reviews on the lock right, can it handle everything the pathy's 3.0 can give it? Can I dump the clutch on pavement and not break it? And most important can I still pull a trailer and turn at the same time? I can handle some noise but I will need to be able to pull a trailer. James

Awesome! I saw they have a 8000# for $299. I could hang the pathfinder from a tree with that. None of the harbor freight power tools I have has ever failed on me. I you watch the sales you can pickup a 110 volt electric 1/2 drive impact for $40. This thing has good power too. Saved me a few times. James

How did the chicago electric winch hold up? James

I'm new to wheelin in a truck but I've be exploring on a four wheeler for years. I made sure my quad had a winch before it left the dealer. Every quad has a solid rear axle and that just helps you get deeper in the poo. Without my winch I would have gotten lots more exercise walking 5 plus miles through the woods. We have cougars in our woods. It would have been a long 5 mile run in the dark. Course now with cell phones you could call your buds to come get you. That Lockrite looks like a pretty cool addition though. According to 4X4 parts you don't even have to set up the gears again. Sounds easy, easy is for me! James

Thats how it worked out on my Titan too. No bigger than 2 1/4 pipe into 1 3" pipe seems to be the best setup. I like two pipes out the back and also I have a bolt broken on my Y pipe and don't feel like trying to drill it out. Would be much easier to just cut it off. James

You will have to take the clip off of the anchor arm to get it in. First make sure your t-bar is all the way in the lower control arm, if it's not you won't be able to get the anchor on the back end of the t-bar it's a close fit. Put some marine grease (water proof) on the splines then slip the anchor on. Try to index the anchor arm so it splines on with the adjuster nut all the way backed off. This will give you more adjustment. Make sure the anchor arm O.D. grooves sit on the cross member correctly then put the retainer clip on. Jack the front of the truck up until the tires are almost off the ground. This makes it easier to turn the adjuster nut. Then crank it down and lower the truck and check with a tape measure. Repeat until both sides are even. James

Anyone else have two pipes coming out the back? James

I have a question on your current duels. Where do your pipes exit? I would like to run duels out the back but it doesn't look like there is enough room around the panhard frame bracket to pass a pipe there. James

Take your time man ,I'm in no rush. James

Ok Cool. I'm not interested in the overhead speaker I just figured it was higher trim level with more options than an SE. Thanks for clearing up the wires in the differential. I thought it might have been like the titans electric locker. This truck has rear disk brakes too, which brings up another question. I wanted to do the rear disk swap because this truck will be in mud and water alot. I figured the disk would be better because I wouldn't have to worry about taking off the drums occasionally to clean them out. But I forgot about the drum emergency brakes on the disk set up. Do you guys with rear disk have a problem with crap building up inside the rotor when you play in the mud? This little truck stops way better than my titan with the 06 "upgraded" brakes so I'm not really looking for better stopping power just less maintenance. James

Hey Guys, I found a 93 in a salvage yard, I think it was an SE. It had a premium sound system with speakers in the roof even. No leather though but had quite a few options. The rear axle had the orange sticker stating to only use LSD fluid. But right up at the pinion yoke it had some wires going into it. I looked over the dash and there were no switches that said anything about locking axles. There was some kind of switch that said something about power but I think it was for the auto trans. I tried turning one wheel and it would not turn without the drive shaft turning so it was at least LSD. Did some trucks come with factory electric lockers? If it did I assume it would lock when shifted to 4 low? James

Looks like it is on the passenger side, and has threads so it should be threaded into the intake plenum. James

More info please?

It looks like your retaining clip is still there it just didn't retain the anchor arm where it should be. So the anchor arm slipped of the splines or the front of the torsion bar came out of the front A arm. The torsion bar is a hardened spring steel so it should be ok but the splines on your anchor arm or lower A arm may be screwed up. May need a trip to the scrap yard. James I pulled the section on the torsion bar out of the service manual for you but don't know how to post it.

If you put that big heavy F block in your pathy it will stand up on the nose like a weeble if you hit the brake too hard. Also I don't remember the ford tranys having the transfer case mated to the tranny. It was on the frame with a drive shaft going to it on the ones I worked on looong ago. I would go with the good old chevy 350 if I did a V8 swap. The VK56 would be ideal if you had a donor truck but now a days the computer systems are tied into the whole truck. Maybe with a stand alone computer system. And you would be sticking with nissan. James

I got a whole set of lego wheels with the newer style caps and crappy 31s last week at the pick-a-part for $115 but none of the yards around here have the older style caps. If some of you guys would like to pick some up and mail them to me I have pay pal, and would really appreciate it. I will take extras too for down the road. I don't mind paying for your time too, just please don't rape me. (Not that I think anyone here would) The paint pealing doesn't matter I will repaint the wheels and caps when I get a complete set just no cracks. James

Anyone know where to get the older style center caps for Lego wheels? The kind like on my truck in this pic Not like the ones in this pic (that I borrowed from the for sale section) I searched on line and can find the newer style like in the second pic but not like the first. I need one front and one rear. James

I couldn't find any all thread rods harder than grade 5. I couldn't even find any fine thread rods. I finally got the bushing flush though. I used a 5/8 threaded rod with union nuts. The union nuts are a little over 1" long so they have way more surface area. So this setup and a long 1/2 ratchet and I got the bushing pressed flush in the frame. It even bent the 5/8 all thread but didn't strip it at all. I think I could hang the entire truck from this bushing and it would not come out. It was a long battle (all day Sunday and three days after work) but I won in the end! Good thing though because the torch was next. James