BLouisGod

This is why I love you guys...

Ive tried aiming, upgrading bulbs, and the oem lamps just arent cutting it. I need fogs / or driving lights and all, but my headlights have maybe, at best, half the output of other halogen lamps Ive had. I noticed the oems have almost grazing on the inside of the lamp for some reason, maybe thats causing a loss of directable light? I dunno. I found these on ebay, just for example, with a simple reflector housing and straight, clear plastic for protection. Anyone have any feedback on them or ideas otherwise?

I have this problem - is it easy to fix?

Awesome info!

I have a 95 and i love it. Its got its issues, but then again, its 13 years old.

Buy Thorleys. Go to an exhaust shop. Let them deal with it. Or, Just live with it. Just my .02.

I have an SE but I have black bumpers and leather interior with heated seats. it has every LE option but the VIN says its SE

Ill go along with the exhaust manis as well!

Whatever lift you do, take stock in getting new UCA's. Mine in stock form are trashed and I cant crank my t-bars until I replace them. The jeep grand cherokee lift is the cheapest by far, but only getting you about ~2 of lift.

Sweet! thanks for the photo. Ill be sure to lock them down asap.

I just did this and tightened the 19mm bolt ( i think its 19) several cranks and leveled the right side on the front end. i looked around but is there some way to lock it in? or can i just turn this bolt when i need to? it was really loose to, i did it with a socket and no breaker bar.

Id say only replace them if they are busted. I wonder if the uretane mounts from the 95 maxima would work? http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/nis2.html I used these on my civic with a motor swap and they did a good job of eliminating slack, but just made the steering vibrate like a bish at idle.

I need to do this: I was under my truck today (for an unrelated issue) and saw the torsion bar adjusters. I started studying them as I'm going to crank them to get the lift I need out of the front end. The first thing I noticed is that the passenger side adjuster was below the crossbar, and well lower than the drivers side (which may exlpain why my truck dipped to the right). I loosened the adjuster nut and cranked the adjuster in a bit, so that it was closer to where the driver side was. Lo and behold, my truck no longer leans to the right. Does it help to raise the front end on the crossmember or can I do it with the wheels on the ground?

I just wired my Pioneer deck (45x4) directly to my 4 5X7's running speaker wire directly throughout the truck. I can crank it and get it pretty loud, it serves its purpose.

that oil is way to thin. I run 10w-40 here in florida due to high temps year round.

The wd21 bulb back there is simple to replace. remove the trim and yank the cover off after you remove the knobs. the bulb is there, and they sell them at autozone.

buy em and let us know!

Just save your money, buy an intake instead.

wow that thing is 2wd? No wonder why he got stuck in a snowbank. 2wd with 44's FTL

I think whats left there needs to stay there. If you had a new car and wanted to clean and condition seals, then yeah, but on high milege cars, things are they usually holding fluids back. The high milege stuff is up to you, my pathy at 150k prolly wont notice the difference. let us know what happens.

1. Centerlink design... wtf were they thinking? 2. 3.0L

like red said, just use thicker oil. i went from 10w30 to 10w40 and bam, no more valve cover leaks.

thats the digital tripometer. someone said that the wiring between those and the rolling trips are different.

Im in the same boat as you. keep emailing him and whatnot. Ill call him if you give me his number. Id like that. The thing that pisses me off most, is that l&p website is running and he can still have the chance to screw over others. Phil, Karma is a bitch.

well who knows, i found a couple v6 at pathy clusters so ill just get one of those. thanks guys