yozsi

the hf ones are junk, just like the milemarker. the only t hing wrong is the crappy clutch engagement thing. its made of plastic and such a piece of crud. try operating one at below freezing..... ugh.

dont worry about it, 99.9% of aftermarket rims are lug centric anyways......

firstly, if you live in california, you are only allowed one monitor to not be ready. second, you will fail the test if you have ANY code in the computer, including transmission codes. third, you have to remove the lower intake manifold to even access the place where the knock sensor is. The most common failure is the knock sensor sub-harness, it is available at the dealer for a reasonable price. It is industry standard to replace the knock sensor also.

ell eventually you can burn an exhaust valve, also it can make the engine run slightly rich because the o2 sensor is seeing the extra air being drawn in from the negative pulses.

i voted for sas for the wd, but... there are already kits out there for that. and its gonna be interesting what route you take.

well, the sob sold the bull bar already. oh well what can yah do. i was gonna get it for 200 plus shipping. bleh

why would you need a pallet? the seller says he'll wrap it in some card board and @!*% ton of tape. ups should do it that way.

cool, the seller was estimating 150 pounds. i was like, damn did they make it out of rail track?

Does anyone know the weight of an ARB bull bar for a wd21? trying to find out if shipping is a viable option on one i found.

im with you mzx, @!*% in indiana, we only have like 2-3 real places to wheel. all the public lands are closed to the.... public........

you can get brand new cables from napa for about 45 bucks a piece.

yea, if i smaked my muffler, i would be more worried about my driveshaft. plus, i think the muffler is the least vunerable of the exhuast, its my tail pipe that has been owned more than once.

well, i currently have only my lincoln 225 ac/dc stick machine because my millermatic 250 literally burst into flames (damn mice). and stick welding is kinda outdated in my opinion, but has way more options over mig.

the 'idle speed' screw is the switch, all the way clockwise for on and all the way counter for off. to get into certain test modes, turn the screw all the way clockwise GENTLY! and wait for the light to blink the certain mode you want, then turn the switch all the way counter clock wise to activate that mode. to return to normal mode just turn the ign switch off and back on. to clear codes, either diconnect the battery or go into the read code mode and then return it to normal mode.

for an antenna you want a firestik or firestik II 4+ feet long.

your steering is loose because your center link is shot to all hell. get a new one or an aftermarket one like hoohaa's.

i'd buy one in a heart beat for my sas swap. hell i already bought a 4.88 r&p for a d44 and need it for my rear end. i bet they would sell a good 20 a year.

LOL, jack up one rear tire, have the trans in neutral and see if you can turn the wheel, if it doesnt turn or turns really hard you have a LSD rear.

my pathfinder does not have a check engine light, all federal and canada emission equipped pathys did not have a cel up to 1993.

your starting problem is probably the starter relay or as nissan calls it the 'inhibit' relay. its in the relay box on the right side of the engine bay.

tighten up that alternator belt! lol. sweet pathy man!

or maybe give the gal a break and tell em you want like 3-400 bucks or something. ain't always about money yah know?

whoo boy here, you gotta long way to go ol' buddy. what kind of turbo is it? why run coolant lines to it? what year pathy is it since it has a dual cam engine? i would make a y pipe off the stock manifolds instead of using headers, maybe z31 300zx turbo manifolds might work. I would stick with the stock computer and maybe get one of those rom writers or something to adjust the fueling and advance curves. Man, in my opinion, keep the pathy road worthy and turbo the bimmer. its a truck, not a sports car.

sounds like a branch got in there or something and tore em up.

after a quick romp through some deep mud i think it got fixed, yup. no problems no more. that mud there took care of the problem.