Simon

Good point Luker....I assumed it was cranking...... If not, then your fuel has bugger all to do with the issue, as Luke said!

Anything's possible......and if it's THAT frozen, the electronics could be all fuggered as well....I'd say if she doesn't fire up, bring it to your friends shop and let it sit as you said........should fire right up once she thaws....

I doubt it's fuel pump then....if you hear it, it should be pumping....I'd say you may have frozen gas, or some other issue.....but frozen gas seems most likely......doesn't explain why your tach is showing that it's running at 1000 RPM's though........

Try to turn the key to the "On" position, and listen for the fuel pump. If you don't hear it, it's an easy fix, though the pump isn't cheap. There's an access panel under the carpet in the cargo area that'll get you to the sending unit on top of the tank. Undo the bolts, and pull the sending unit out. The pump is attached to it.

He had cams in his old engine. It was fried.....got a replacement engine.....didn't install the cams until the new engine was broken in.....found out the aftermarket cams that were in his old engine are shot. Wheel, correct me if I'm wrong here?

Are you doing just the ends? Or the complete assemblys? If you're doing the complete assembly's it's easy. Get a pickle fork (tie rod removal tool) and undo the bolts, then use the tool to remove the tie rod ends from the CL, and Knuckle.....Simple. Be sure to get an alignment afterwards, as the chances of you adjusting the tie rods exactly right are slim to none. The part that sometimes gets difficult is when you're trying to get the tie rod ends out of the adjuster. Sometimes they seize in there pretty tight, and can be a real PITA to get loose.

CRAZ4SNO?

Bad year mechanically?!?!? No.....the reason they don't have it is that about halfway through 95 they released the 96...which was a complete redesign. Alot of parts places don't even show parts for a 95, but they'll show it for a 94. Ask them for an owners manual for a 94....there's no difference.

Pezzy had the same issue, and had to go with aftermarket wheels with less backspacing to cure her issues. I'd say wheel spacers are a bad idea, especially if you're only going to use them in the front........as it will throw off your steering geometry and cause some oversteer. Vsicks. Why not stop being so vague, and post what you believe his issues will be. Your post is useless as it sits.

Basically, the only part you really will NEED is the upgraded CL from L&P. $250 +$100 Core charge. If you don't send them back your old one, you pay the full $350. From what I've heard, worth every penny.

Hmm........you've peaked my interest Luke. I'll be in touch....

Yeah....he's running at least 3+3" lifts.....plus his site says he's running 3" Rancho coils, and 2.5" spacers in the rear. I like his alternator relocation idea though.....now to find me another alternator!!

A maxima distributor will work on a WD21 Pathy.

Thanks Kn0xville. *holds breath*

It does sound like the alternator. Just double check the belt tension to ensure it's not slipping, but if it's tight, I'd say your alternator is going.

I had moog upper ball joints in mine. They were good. The only reason I changed them was because the boots disintigrated, and they would have gone. There was no play in the joints at the time though.

To add to 88's public service announcement. Adding an external cooler INLINE with the stock cooler does NOTHING for you. It is wasted money. Be sure to COMPLETELY bypass the stock cooler, when installing the aftermarket one.

Wow....Thanks for the info Ginc. Actually, my pulley comes off fairly easily. I had it off a while back to try to grease the bearing....unsuccessfully.

Wow....Glad to hear that everyone's okay....that's the most important part...... Trucks can be fixed/replaced.

LOL.....I was thinking the same thing buddy!!! Slick....put the booze......DOWN!!!

Where are you located? Maybe someone from the board is local, and could lend some assistance.....

Hmm.....I thought you may have been talking about megaCity....I've never been, but have been meaning to go..... I've used Japanese Used Auto Parts in Scarborough a few times. Thanks again Filthy!

If I get one at a scrap yard, I will do so mws. I assure you! I'm thinking its the front bearing in the pump......

Check the voltage with the truck off. You should have around 12v. If not, chances are your battery is no good. If you check the voltage with the truck on, it should be around 14v. If it's low, then it may not be the battery, but more likely the alternator. These trucks are very sensitive to voltage. Even a little low and it won't turn over at all....and all you'll get is a click. If the voltages look good, your starter may be going.

Hey Luker, I live in Acton, so Georgetown may be a good option for me. Where's the wrecking yard? I've tried draining/refilling with new fluid.....no luck. I may try to see what PA has. Good tip on that one.