Simon

10-4

I thought the same as you did before getting a real close look at the R50's. Since working on Pezzy's, and seeing it in action, I've gained a whole new respect for them.

Or inside it..... (as in, drive it ) I just like that I'm not like everyone else on the trails. I've got something different, and I typically surprise most Jeepers with the Pathy's capabilities. Also, it's comfy enough to drive every day, I can load it full of all kinds of stuff for camping, or anything else for that matter.

The rear bumper will move up. There are holes drilled in the frame almost straight up, 3" from the original ones..... No need for any sort of bracket. Just a couple of bolts/nuts. The front bumper uses relocation brackets (flat bar with 2 holes, drilled 3" apart) to mount. THey're garbage. You're better off to make something, or alter them to hold the bumper more steady.

I'm sure that loyalty depends on the owner, just as it does with the WD's. I know Pezzy and Dan love theirs....as well as Dean. You just don't see as much multiple R50 ownership, probably due to the increased cost of them.

More than likely, it has nothing to do with both negative leads being on one screw. I'd be more inclined to think it's a bad battery, alternator, or, as you mentioned, cable.

It's not just your e-brake light, but your brake light in general. Check your brake fluid, it's probably low.

Yep...as Zonianbrat said....that could be the case, also check the coolant level, as if you're low, your fan will be on more often, and earlier.

I concur.

Most likely not. Most Nissans (Wd21 Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, Xterra, R50 Pathfinder) run 100mm bore on the rims. Just make sure if you go that route that you do all 4 rims, and the spare, so you can rotate your tires.

You'll probably have to have the rims bored out. Or buy aftermarket rims with a center bore of 100mm or larger.

My first thought was the same as V6....is it spinning the right way?

1st of all....there is nothing wrong with our trannies. It's the coolers that suck. Bypassing the stock cooler for an aftermarket (LARGE) cooler solves that issue. Onto your questions though.... 1) You should be able to swap the cables to use the 94's cable with the 93's tranny. 2) The pedal assemblies, as far as I know, are all the same. You should have no issue with installing the ones from the 93. 3) You can download a factory service manual for free in PDF format, with all the wiring diagrams. Search the forum for the link. 4) You'll probably want to use your 94 AT ECU. The AT ECU's work fine with manual transmissions. You just can't use an MT ECU, in an Auto equipped truck. For the pedals, if it's easy enough, I'll remove the assembly from my old rig that I have yet to dispose of. It was a 95 SE with MT. If the 93's pedal assembly doesn't work, and I have pulled the pedals from my 95, I'll sell them to you cheap.

NO problem, There isn't really signs for either.....you just have to know where they are. The other option, is to look at some topo maps of the areas and find the trails. Pezzy has GPS coordinates for the trailheads and could probably post them up.

No...no need to book....they're both crown land. One is a snowmobile trail (BobC) the other (Minden) is a hydroline.

Yeah, they do have large gaps between the lugs, which is what makes them decent off road, similar to a mud tire...though, not to the same extent. Anyways, sorry you cooked one, but I'd go with another set if I were you, or at least, a pair, to replace that one, and the other one that was on the front that's worn unevenly.

You can handle Minden, for sure, and if you're careful, Bobcaygeon as well. They're not that difficult, but it's more the offshoots and "play areas" that can be a little more challenging. Those parts you may want to stay off, until you build up your truck.

The front suspension will hold, however, you'll go through a few more balljoints, I'm sure. The steering, (if I remember correctly, you're running 35's) should be okay, again, though, you may go through tie rods a little more often. I'd be more concerned, if anything with our little V6 pushing that truck around on 35's.

It's been done. A guy local to me has run them. A LOT of trimming is necessary.

Pezzy's had hers on for 2.5 years, and had to replace 1 because of a cut sidewall. That's with a LOT of wheeling, and most of it not easy. She's beat on them pretty hard, and they've held up well, not to mention, gone through everything, and been good in the winter to boot!

DJ, man.....with the tread, or lack thereof, any tire would have suffered the same fate. I wouldn't put that as a strike against that particular make/model of tire.

In a word....yes. These small V6 engines pulling 4000lbs of weight around need to be revved a bit. The owners manual even states to shift around 3K RPMS. Do that, and you'll be fine. You won't waste much more gas either, because the engine won't have to work nearly as hard to maintain speed and/or accelerate as it has to when you shift at 2200RPMS.

It might help. It might not. It depends on how far gone the bearing is. Try a quality synthetic lube, and some lucas oil stabilizer in there, at a ratio of no more than 20%. That should help quiet it down. Also, it should slow down any wear/problems in the tranny that are the source of your whine.

Not ALL GL-5 fluids are harmful to our transmissions. There are some that don't contain the soft metal corrosive additives that can be used. You just have to be sure to research which fluids are not corrosive to soft (yellow) metals. Oh, and if you have a V6 engine, you definitely want 5.1qts in there.

No....not so much. Which is probably the reason why I misread Denis' comment.