Simon

We have a similar idea on another board (NTC) that I'm on. We have a whole section, and everyone just starts their threads. Comments/questions go in each users thread. It seems to work well. Though, it's a little different, as it's a pretty local board, and most people have met face to face.

Nope...don't need to pull the knuckle to do the bearings. Undo the upper ball joints, disassemble the hubs, and you'll be into the wheel bearings. You can typically get the CV's pulled back enough to get the inner races out without having to pull out the whole knuckle.

I don't remember telling you that. And if I did, it was because you were bitching about having no money. They're cheap. Not to mention, your truck isn't exactly "trail ready" so shocks are the least of your worries. BLouis - I do believe the ES3000 are VERY comparable to the Rancho RS5000 series. Makes sense that they were stiff at first.

oooooo He DOES have a pair! Uncc.. Good luck with the CAD drawings.

Naw...it's not THAT bad...once you get the hang of it. The #6 is a pain....but once you've done it a few times, you just sort of "feel" where it is. It becomes only marginally more difficult than any of the rest, which are pretty standard.

Oh, I'm calm. Just don't think with over 1500 posts you should have to be spoonfed EVERYTHING.

Nope. They're not momentary. Recirc, and AC are full on/off buttons.

As does the Pathfinder. My LE with auto climate controls will cycle the AC when on defrost, whether on Auto, or manual modes. It clears the windows far better and faster than my old 95 that had no working AC.

No worries. Just try to remember that you're now driving a Pathfinder. Some things are MUCH better. Some things (#6 sparkplug location, starter location, alternator location) might make you wish for a HEEP.

If you will NEVER take the truck off road...the Sensa-Trac's are fine. I had them on my old truck for a short time. The first time I took it off road, they were finished. No damping whatsoever.... Keep that in mind.

Exhaust manifold studs have basically nothing to do with the timing belt. IE, you won't save money by having them both done. To do the Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, t-stat (the basics for the job, really. Some people will do cam seals, but I don't like to fiddle with them if they aren't leaking) anywhere in the $600-1000 range is about average. IT's not a cheap job, though, parts are only a couple hundred dollars. It's time consuming. If there's anyone that lives near you that has done one before, you could tackle the job yourself with basic tools.

Be careful with stainless lines. Most aftermarket manufacturers will make them longer, to suit multiple vehicles. The issue with that is rubbing. SkinnyPedal had stainless lines on the front of his rig, but they were a little longer than stock, rubbed on something (can't remember what) and blew. He was lucky he was able to escape rush hour traffic without killing someone, or himself.

It shouldn't be for the 3.3. As I said, my buddy's X has the same motor, and he's running the same.

That's not true, unless you're referring to the Trailmaster suspension lift. Any 3" suspension lift requires no brake line extentions.

I believe it was a magnaflow.

A friend redid the exhaust in his 3.3L Xterra. Here's what he did. Cut out 2 of the cats. Only 1 cat per bank now. Stainless, mandrel bent tubing 2.25" all the way back....no Y pipe. Dual 2.25" in, single 2.5" out muffler. He's getting REALLY good mileage now with the higher flow, it sounds great, and he's got more power. He hasn't even added the high flow cats to his setup yet. Those are sitting at home awaiting install.

Ahh.....then it's in the shifter area. Try moving the shifter through the gears, put it back in park, or neutral, and try to start again.

There's lots of places. Call around locally for the best price/warranty (some have lifetime warranties) and go from there. On the centerlink, there are 2 options. Calmini HD steering setup = $$$ hoohaa on this board. PM him and talk to him about getting yours rebuilt. Search around for L&P steering. They're no longer in business, (though, they may still take your money, and you'll never get parts). hoohaa's centerlinks are the same, and plenty strong. I run one myself.

Auto or Manual tranny? Check the connections at the battery as well....make sure they're tight and clean. The safety switch is on the clutch pedal if it's a manual tranny. The solenoid is on the starter.

Okay....I will assume stock components. If you get side to side motion, you could have worn tie rod ends (inner and outer, both sides) and could have a bad centerlink. They're very common to go on these things. Look at where the inner tie rod end attaches. That's the centerlink. Try moving the wheel side to side while looking at that joint. If the centerlink rotates up and down as you move the tire, it's shot. If it doesn't move, but you see the tie rods moving...they're shot. The up/down motion could be the ball joints, or the wheel bearings. Have someone move the wheel up/down while you look for play. Look at the top and bottom ball joints, if they aren't moving, but the wheel is, chances are the bearings need to be re-packed.

I'm an uncreative bastard. My handle is my first name.

6.5" speakers will be tight, and you'll have to do a lot of trimming. Be sure to install the front door speakers with the window DOWN, as that's the only way to be sure that the speakers will fit, and you'll be able to roll the window all the way down. Both the front and rear are 5x7 in the 95 Pathfinder. Stock speakers are Clarion. Most commercial 5x7's are too deep to fit. Try www.crutchfield.com and go through the vehicle specific sizing to find the speaker models that will fit in your Pathy without trimming/cutting the stock holes.

Nice job Mr. P! I've been thinking about how to re-align the intake pipe....and there it is!

Was the Mobil1 fluid Dexron III? If so, it's fine. Over cooling shouldn't be an issue, as many folks have bypassed the stock cooler in favor of an aftermarket external type. I think, if anything, your issue is from the period of fluid starvation, and/or you had an issue in the tranny before that was masked by the old, dirty fluid. Try going for a little longer drive, get it warmed up, and and have the new fluid run through the tranny....it may clear up.