Simon

Weird....I've done shocks a couple of times, and always had to remove the axle side mount of the panhard rod to do it. Oh well...live and learn! Good job guys.

^^^ What he said. For the panhard rod, you'll need a 19mm socket. Simple to do....takes about 20 minutes per end of the truck, even with basic tools. If you have air tools...about 5 minutes per end of the truck.

I have mine with both lines at the bottom...I have good fluid flow, and no air in it.

99+ R50's had 16" rims stock....that's the ones for sure. There were no options for 16" rims on WD21's. Not sure on the 96-98 R50...as some may have had an option for 16" rims. You can also go to Toyota if you can find them. They'll bolt right up. Also, 2000-2004 Xterra rims bolt on just fine as well. Lots of options out there.

True, but it cools from the inside. So as long as you don't run dry, it's not a huge issue. Many folks, though, if they do run out of gas, end up killing the pump.

Idling a fuel injected vehicle is not a great idea. It takes longer for it to reach closed loop operation (ECU controlled) and just dumps a bunch of fuel in to keep it running. In some cases, you can have raw fuel passing many of your sensors, which doesn't do them any good. If you're concerned about it....start it, idle for 30 seconds max, then take it for a drive.

If he can't get the site back, or has trouble with his hosting company, Pezzy and I can host it on our site. I'm sure you have the image file somewhere, right Scott?

Yep...definitely could be the reason. There is a fuse in the panel for that.

Well, it's an 80L tank....so you've got a ways to go. I've once had a 76L fill up....that's the closest I've gotten to empty.

Jack it up, spin the wheel...listen for where the noise is coming from.. Could have also been a bad hub trying to lock, or a bad wheel bearing.

15x7. They fit a 31x10.5R15 nicely. Here's my old truck, stock, Lego wheels, with 31's.

Yep....31's fit on stock WD21 Pathfinders with no issues. Many came with 31's from the factory.

That's the one I have, only, mine's screwed to the side of the console to the right of the shifter.

Alright, I'll try to take a pic this evening, and post it for you. It doesn't look bad....though, by no means does it look stock... For a REALLY nice, though, labour intensive solution, look up jjbigshoe's solution. He put a full console from a Jeep Grand CHerokee in his Pathy. He did an amazing job.

That'll only work a couple of times. Your starter is on it's way out.

Is yours auto or manual? If manual, you can get a dual cupholder that you can put between the shifter boot, and the e-brake "dust collector" that fits perfectly, and stays snug. If it's auto, I've got a dual cupholder screwed to the console on the passenger side. It's not in the way of anything for the passenger, and it actually doesn't look that bad. I'll see if I can dig up some pics.

Yeah....that's my thought too Mr. P. As Skrilla says, I have "Amish Hands" No way I'm fitting them in there to do any work. Taking the bumper off takes less than 10 minutes....so I don't see any need to fight my way through it with the bumper still on.

There definitely is NOT a sensor for the glass. You've probably messed up the trigger in the hatch. Try the washers. Same as Mr. Pickles, I used a couple of standard, flat washers underneath the plate, and have had no issues since.

Heh...lucky for you I've installed my ARB on 2 different trucks this year (killed my old one) so I'm sort of familiar with the process on the front bumper removal!

They're bolts.... they go into captive nuts on the frame (or a bracket welded to it). I believe they're 12mm head.....but don't quote me on that. Could be as large as 14mm, but I don't even think they're that big.

They work well as a doorstop as well!

I think you'd be better off to remove the bumper. There's only 2 bolts per side, accessible via the wheel wells.

Good choice. You should be happy with them.

LOL...Safety first!

LOL. Haynes and Chilton's are ALWAYS spot on Scott....don't you know that?