Simon

The lugs should be fine. They use the same lugs on all WD21's regardless of aluminum or steel rim option.

Yes it will....this is how I have mine wired up. Though, I don't have mine to a switched power source.

That's not right......The power switch on your radio has absolutely nothing to do with whether or not the switched positive lead to it has power.

The one that keeps bursting open is the fuel feed. The return will be under considerably less pressure.

Nissan. In my opinion, it's not worth saving a few bucks on to get it anywhere else.

It's definitely possible. Time to do some tracing.

I've used liquid gasket maker (high temp RTV) with success. The Permatex red stuff is the one I used.

The marks may be off a bit if it's not back at TDC. They only align properly once every 4-5 rotations....

One other thing to check is the slave cylinder. It's possible you're not getting enough pressure to release the clutch so you can get it into gear.

The Maxima/I30 is a different motor, and different alternator. The quest Alternator swap from the ones with the VG33 has been done, search around. A direct swap for the WD21 Pathfinders is the alternator from the VG30 equipped maximas (pre 95) with the SOHC engine. It puts out 90amps if I remember correctly.

That may be referencing the 4cyl motor available in the hardbody.

Haynes/Chiltons = the same sh!t. I've had both for various cars, and they both leave quite a bit to be desired. THey're both good for basic stuff, when the FSM is too much of a hassle to leaf through. But for anything more involved, they're useless.

That's an AC UCA. That's how they build them. The upper ball joint looks suspect, as it looks as if the nut isn't tightened down properly. Check your wheel bearings as well....it could be that it's gotten VERY loose. With the truck jacked up, and the wheel on, have someone push/pull on the top and bottom of the tire while you check for play. Otherwise, check your tension rod on that side....possible that it snapped. You wont' hurt the knuckle, especially not bending it. It's cast. You'll snap it before it bends.

lol... 60k for the square tooth. 105k for the round tooth. as GrimGreg said, 93 was an oddball year where they switched to the round tooth belt halfway through.

Fair question, that I do not know.

If you're going to add lights, a big stereo, and/or a winch, a yellow top or Orbital battery will serve you well. Not to mention, they're more shock resistant being dry cell, for off road excursions.

Nope. Optima Yellow Top fits just fine. 34/78 model I believe. Also the Orbital Extreme fits fine as well. Pezzy's had both in her 99.5 R50 with no problems.

Very strange. Must be a weird aftermarket ball joint with a longer than normal shaft. 2 options then.... 1) Wrench 2) Remove the CV from the knuckle, then use a socket.

There should be enough room for a shallow socket. That's how I've always done mine.

It's no fun....but doable. Some tight spaces to contend with. I've only ever done it while changing my timing belt, so to rate it on it's own, I'm not sure.

Could be the t-stat is stuck open.

Sounds like your ground isn't connected properly, and the unit was grounding through the antenna.

x2

Heheh......If it's the same BAT, and to OEM spec.....WTF did they change? NOTHING is my bet.

The thing is, your idle shouldn't drop 500rpms just because you're in drive. Something's wrong there. Mine drops MAYBE 50rpms when I shift into D. I hear what you're saying about upping it, and it makes sense, to keep it running until you figure this out, but I think that, at least while you're trying certain fixes, you should lower it to 750. Sounds to me like the MAF sensor causing your idle issues.