Simon

Yeah....it looks like it's solid....but if you unbolt the front pulley, which is a separate piece from the other 2, you'll see the rubber.

They're all the same on our trucks K9.....Dowser's 91 was like that, as is my 95......I'm sure yours is as well.

That's why you should use a good primer.......then you don't have to do anything to the metal, and it's rust-resistant propeties will remain the same.

It seems to me that by lifting the front end on our trucks, you do nothing to increase total travel.....So, it seems that a stock length shock would work fine in the front. Also, it might help (very slightly) to keep from overflexing, and possibly blowing up a CV..... Maybe I'm way off, but that's how I see it.....someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

As far as I know, it's simply a matter of unplugging the connectors, and plugging them into the new ECU. Make sure the ECU out of the donor pathy has the same type of tranny, and you should be fine.

You'll have to spend good money on primer........A good primer will allow the paint to adhere properly. If they're new parts, prep isn't important. Look around for primers that will adhere to galvanized.....be prepared to spend......a pint will cost you at least as much as a gallon of regular metal primer.

Vidro....easy fix for that....simply fill through the shifter hole. Just remove the shifter. It's really easy. 1 snap ring and you're done. Then you can put in the required 5.1L of oil, as opposed to 3.6, regardless of whether it's dino, or synthetic. :cool2:

No, but PM Filthy LUker as he put a receiver on the front of his Pathy for a winch.....he may be able to lend a hand in how he set his up.

You do know why that BL won't work, don't you? The rear bolts are not the correct length for the later WD21's.....AC is one of the only places to get a BL for them, as they actually open the Performance Accessories kit, and add the correct bolts.

From what I've found, dino GL-4 will work fine, but it seems that in colder weather, for the first couple of shifts, it's not very smooth. Rough shifting into 2nd, and a bit into 3rd I've found. Other than that, it's not too bad........ I haven't heard of anyone who's experienced that condition running synthetic.

Could be the tranny is in power mode......... There's a switch on the dash....make sure it's in the middle.....it should shift normally in that mode.

How much tread is left on your tires? If you've got alot, just get the BL, and wait for the SAS.....if you're due, or will be soon, then you have to decide if you just want to be able to mount 32" tires (with BL only) or 33" tires (BL and SL) I wouldn't spend any extra money on SL parts if I was planning a SAS in the near future.

Did you get hosed on Duty?

Luker.....I had both my lower ball joints shot, one with "excessive" play, but had no noise...... Mr. P, the best way, (that I've found) to check for play in the LBJ, is to jack the truck up, tire off, remove the upper BJ from the spindle, and then see if you've got play in the LBJ by moving the spindle around. You shouldn't get any up/down movement separate from moving the LCA. Definitely check the sway bar links first though.....mine were shot and created all kinds of noises. Just grab the sway bar and push/pull on it up and down to check for play.

NOt a good Idea......... It's there for a reason........you don't want to go exploding a CV joint because you've overflexed.

That's alot of miles, but if it's cooling well, and the fluid remains a nice red colour, you shouldn't have too much to worry about.

It's the bushings in the centerlink that fail as far as I know. L&P will be able to service/recondition it as long as it's straight.

Harb and SC88... Do you guys not have external tranny coolers? If you do....stop reading..... If not, do it now!!! It's cheap insurance, and the fluid overheating due to the clogged stock cooler seems to be the only thing that kills the autos........ Why would you wait until disaster strikes? -alcohol-

Hmm....good to know there's another viable option.....thanks Filthy.

I think there was confusion on that one Filthy....I believe it was the AC ball joint spacers that ended up killing 88's UCA's. He ran them with stock UCA's and bent them all to crap. OUt of curiosity, how long have you had them on?

The 05's have 270hp from the factory. VQ40 engine.

If I'm not mistaken, Vengeful had a problem similar to yours a while back, and got it fixed....... Calling Vengeful to thread 7469!!!!! As previously stated though, stop driving it......it's a real safety hazzard. :contract:

Hadn't thought of that, Filthy.......I'll have to check out what I can put there as an idler......maybe my AC compressor, since it does nothing anyways.....

Well, putting the new one in isn't that bad.......it's removing the windsheild from the donor Pathy that could be difficult without breaking the windshield. There's a tool that allows you to cut the seal on the one you're removing which helps alot. Looks like a knife blade with a 90 degree blade that's also got a rope/handle for extra pulling power......seemed to work well for the guy who replaced mine.

I was thinking about this a bit on the weekend.....If there's no modification needed to the alternator, it seems to me that it could be done by "spacing" the alternator properly, then using the adjuster pulley for belt tension as it's normally done with the AC compressor. Basically, just make the alternator sit stationary. Any thoughts?