Pavelow Leaks

I had that setup on my pathy, it completely solved all my steering issues and bending TRE's. I beat the hell out of it never had any problems. too bad my pathy went up in flames.

I got mine from NAPA, and I dont remember exactly how much they were, but I know it was nowhere near $80

First off all if im getting about 230 on a tank is that bad gas mileage for this things? really depends on your driving habits, but that's pretty bad. Also my alarm might never stops blinking how do you fix that or have any suggestions at what to look at? Dunno.. Also on my passenger side manifold a bolt is broke off which is a common problem i guess and was woudering since its 350 bucks to have a shop fix that if anyone thinks i can just put jb weld over the seem and the old bolt hole? Don't be that guy, fix it right. Also my frame is extremely rusty, in one spot there is a chunk that looks like it could break off its like 6 inches long but its right on the corner of the frame and only about a fingures with tall and wide. Should i be worried about that? I'd worry about it, especially if it looks like it might fall off....a broken frame is not something you want to happen, especially while driving it... pretty dangerous. One more thing when i go over bumps my whole suspention creeks and groans is that normal also my back end makes loud clunking noises i think its the struts if so i have adjustible ones if i were to replace them can i just buy regular ones and put them on or do i need the adjustible? Creeks and groans = bad bushings...possibly not there anymore bushings. Loud clunks could be the same thing...or a broken sway bar they tend to clunk if a linkage lets go, mine did...just take it off if you don't mind a lil more body roll. Yes you can replace adjustable shocks with regular shocks.

you have to have 6 inches of lift to clear 33's with no rubbing. so..a 3 inch body lift 3 inch suspension lift...thats pretty much the norm. And then, if you do it, and actually wheel it you will destroy your stock steering system...so an upgraded centerlink is highly suggested...pretty much a must have.

I'd suggest replacing all the springs while you've got it apart.

yea...your right, I didnt consider the strain on the stock crappy wiring. thanks.

So, I'm on a lighting spree for the night time poker run in the desert tomorrow night and I need some help...so what better place to ask. I'm hooking fog lights to my reverse lights so if (when) I need to back out of something I can see out there in the boonies. My question is, if I tap into the trailer wiring harness, is the tailight wire the one to tap into, since in all the diagrams I've looked at I see no specific wire for reverse lights. Maybe I'm over looking something. Question two, is this the best way to do it or should I splice right off the reverse light itself and run the wires from the actual truck wiring. Seems easier to do it from the trailer harness, if possible. Lemme know people. BTW, I'm goin for quick easy and functional, not pretty. Thanks, Matt

you dont need to do all that to get the radio out, pull out the ashtray, pull out the four screws, two at the top above the heater controls, two at the bottom above the lil cubby hole, pretty much directly south of the top ones. The whole front will come off after that, but dont pull too far before you disconnect the cigarette lighter, after that you'll see the screws holding the radio in. Unless my pathfinder is special (which it is) the heater controls don't need to be messed with to get the radio out.

reading that gave me a headache.

a toyota one would probably work, but you'd have to do a lil fab work on the mounts.

Every 6 months is a bit excessive...but whatever floats your boat. I recommend running NGK's they are usually the best choice for japanese motors.

rocker panels, definately.

cowl vents...mine are also RTV'd on.

FYI, crawl magazine just did a review on pretty much every worthwhile light system made, might wanna check that out.

^^^that made me lol!

Before I order I would like to know how many horsepower and inches of suspension flex I can expect to gain from each sticker.

Kinda far for me, but still a possibility..Moab is a nice centralish western coast place to meet!

test lights are cheap alternatives if you cant justify a voltmeter, they'll at least tell you something is hot when it shouldn't be. Make sure your battery is good, because if it's been run down to nothing a few times sometimes they won't hold/take a charge.

You're right, the extra 5 minutes is not worth it, stressing something to move it is always a better idea.

remove it completely, soak it, and it should adjust freely, and once the body lift is on you dont need to jack it up to install it....you can just do it through the wheel well. Do what you want, but I think it's easier to remove it completely, lube it, see if it is stuck..then go from there.

why would you leave the shaft in during the lift? Take it out soak it in PB blaster and you should be able to extend it. I couldn't but, I'm sure it's not a normal occurance.

To add to taking the bolts off, don't lose them once they are off because this seriously hinders reinstallation. Oh, and I would take the sensor out if you're going to submerse it in some sort of parts cleaner.

It was a suggestion, it's worth takin a look. I know of about 20 pathy's here in JY's, it's not like they are rare.

I drive mine on the freeway all the time, I didnt just cut a piece out and weld some in. I cut a piece of solid stock, machined a pin on each end to fit into the holes I drilled in the stock shaft then welded it up...it's not goin anywhere.

yup..but wouldn't goin to the junkyard and puttin one in your pocket be easier?