Pavelow Leaks

no..ball joints and centerlinks are known weak spots in pathfinders, they "could" align it better than it is, but most shops wont work on things with worn components...if its stock and you don't wheel hard replace it with factory stuff. If you plan on lifting and putting bigger tires I recommend upgrading....no where near $1100 btw.

Not completely flexed out...but close enough..about the same as everyone else with no sway bar and longer shocks.

Really depends on the color of the truck

I drive the piss outta mine.

230k on my 90, no tranny cooler.

yea it has to be offset to the left side of the car, "drivers side drop".

If you don't crank the adjustment bolt the light will swivel no matter how its mounted...but it does look good and I'm probly gonna use those to mount rear lights on my tire carrier. Good job!

It's the big round thingamajigger inbetwix your rear axles. has a drive shaft connected to it.

That is crap, I don't care what's goin on with his personal life, if you run a business you need to take care of people that have paid you for your product. If you can't produce, give a refund, it still sucks, but at least nobody's out any cash. BTW, Calmini has a fine product that was on my doorstep 3 days after the order.

there's a big difference between 240 @ the flywheel and 240 @ the wheels.

too bad most theives are too dumb to check the doors before they bust out the window.

Tacoma's are nice trucks..congrats!

It not really gonna hurt anything as long as its not a rediculously large leak...It'll just be make an obnoxious amount of noise. If you cant afford to fix it it'll be fine until you can...you could throw some JB Weld on the crack..not the preferred method, but it does the trick.

My rear drivers side window regulator is shot...so I can get into mine in about 3 seconds.

right and left, port & starboard, all defined from the rear of the vehicle, aircraft, whatever, facing forward.

ouch

I didn't really pay attention to that..and I have had it out so that could be the problem.

the lines wouldnt be cold if it wasn't engaging would they?

Ok..so it worked last summer, now it doesnt. It just blows hot air, fuses are good, charge is good, the lines are icey cold...wtf...I'm outta ideas. HELP!

I've got that leak too!!

too bad he didn't fix the rust under the back seat..you can see it in the pics.

Filters, belts (not timing), plugs, wires, cap & rotor, engine oil, tranny fluid, differential, trasfer case, take a grease gun to all the fittings, rotate the tires, wash it wax it & drive it! I probably forgot something, cuz I'm still up after bein at work all night..but thats pretty much what I consider a full tune up.

you can rent the puller from auto zone, its really pretty easy to take all the stuff apart, I replaced my centerlink, tie rods and got it aligned good enough to drive in a few hours...anybody with any kind of mechanical skill could do it in a day. Mine came out with a pickle fork and a lil persuasion from a BFH (big f*&king hammer) but I don't recommend that unless you are replacing the tie rod ends. This isn't stock, but same basic idea..disconnect all the connections to the center link and voila, it's out.

wtf @ the coilovers in conjunction with the regular springs....but I am diggin the "bed" in the back

looks good to me!