TerranoNZ

New Zealand I can keep my eyes peeled if you want....They come up quite cheap here.....About $20-$40US cheaper than e-bay.

HE RUNS, HE RUNS Small/easy problem fixed Shifting seems better....Wont really know til I put some mileage on him.

If the oil leaking is engine oil, rear main seal is leaking. If the oil leaking is Gearbox/transmission fluid, Front seal is leaking. Pics man

Here's the instuctions

98oct, My lot seems to run better

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Step 4: Pressure modifier Remove and inspect for cracks. (Yellow) Don't really know why that's part of a shift kit Step 5: Modifier accumulator Remove and inspect for cracks. Step 6: Drilling separator plate Let the fun begin Drill as per instructions either Regular duty or heavy duty. I went with Regular as this is my DD and I read that someone went heavy and thinks it shifts too hard. Debur all holes and clean swarf. Step 7: Put the valve body back together As in FSM Step 8: Replace accumulator seals As pic these are Teflon seals not O-rings, hence the split in them. 2-3 &1-2 Accumulator only (4 seals) They are a PITA to install. Use petroleum jelly to hold them in and quickly push them in, but don't push too hard. Step 9: Replace accumulator spring New spring is red colour. Very hard Step 10: Replace Servo cover gasket Pretty straight forward, Torque bolts to 11.5Nm (100 In/lbs) Step 11: Orifice plug My case doesn't have the plug or ball in question, so I'm done here. Step 12: Replace rings on stator support shaft 2 large and 2 small.....Easy, just careful of the Vaseline DONE Now cross your fingers it works

As most people know my trans blew up a while back and I've been rebuilding it myself. After getting the torque converter rebuilt (That was what blew) I ordered 2 shift kits and a few remaining bits I needed. I can't offer a complete how to, but with the FSM it's pretty easy to pull the trans apart. This is more so people can see what's involved before taking the job on. Should you do it? Well I've rebuilt a few engines in my time, I've a pretty good mechanical understanding. I've got the FSM to work from, without this I wouldn't of started it This is what you get in the kit + instructions. *The 0.041 drill bit arrived broken, but was not a big deal as you only need that for the "Heavy duty" option. Tools you will need: Basic tools, socket set, spanners, cir clip pliers that sort of thing. Vernier calipers Power drill Parts wash Step 1: Cross drilling through gallery As per instructions, remove the pressure regulator valve. Some of the valves were hard to remove. I had a magnet that was too big to fit inside. But with a cunning plan Using a pin as an extension I was able to get the steel valves out easy. Place the body protector in place. Use the 0.062 drill bit to drill through the body wall. Clean out the body with parts wash, make sure to debur the hole on the other side. Step 2: Pressure valve spring Measure the spring, if in spec as mine is add little blue spring. (Blue) Step 3: Sequence & Relay valve Remove the valves and replace separator plugs and pins. (Red) Be sure when reinstalling that the springs are seated on the clips correctly.

Good luck for tomorrow, Removing the pedal box is a PITA and I had to remove the dash to do it. Hope you find an easier way

*gets image of 87 walking down the street in a Nike T-shirt turned in side out*

Amen to that It's up to the individual though

Why is it that when I saw your name here that there would be mention of hootus

Great, now I'm going to have to watch that movie

Here Man Funny thing is that post you quoted was 1 day before you joined http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...amp;#entry47470

I thought "hold" would hold the auto in one gear I'll check the next time mine runs I'm not a fan of that power mode, to me it shifts faster normally. When in power mode it over revs, it's no longer making power, just revving. Each to their own though

Hmmm, something on the news that doesn't involve murder, war, politics, celebrities or the royal family?.......... Rubbish idea

2nded.....You guys need a spare idler arm?....How bout a power steering box? * @ B* Amen to "Jims obligation"

You can't say ALL of them rust out the frame, as there are a lot of WD21's with great rust free frames, worldwide. So this problem seems to be location. Can hardly blame Nissan for your climate.

x2.... The 1st belt change I did on Vix I left the old pump on (after being warned) Sure enough I was doing the water pump within a month. Now I always replace both

I just had mine rebuilt, $330NZ Maybe buy a S/H one and get if rebuilt

No worries Simon, good to see you got it in Were you braking while going round a corner in that pic?

I think he's referring to the rust problem that some of them have.

I'll edit your post and call it mine Are you going to be following MZ round trying to aggravate him? Tread carefully man

Yeah that was gonna be my other suggestion BTW if you wanna practice I've got 2 pair of links you can play with

Don't you guy's have hammers?