87pathy

Did Calmini say it was going to be a leaf sprung suspension? Just asking cause the pic they show is of a D21. i thought i saw one on coils before but maybe i was wrong.

I agree that its most likely a waste of money. but you can get more power without more fuel. turbo chargers, super chargers, better ignition systems, better flowing exaust etc, its not MORE fuel, its better fuel USAGE that gets more power. Now i am not saying that you don't get more power from more fuel. Just that its not the only way.

Really? what did i mension thats not involved in an SAS? if they are using leaf springs then i would be wrong but using coil springs, you will need nearly, if not everything i mensioned. If I was going to sell a SAS kit for a pathfiner, it would cost 6-700 bucks without the axle. Tack on another 400 1600 bucks for that and its about right. Problem is, there is only a couple axles that you could use on a pathfinder.. I have done a solid axle swap on a pathfinder and alot of custom suspension work. Anyway.. just trying to help the community stay informed

wow,,, how mis informed you are. ok, dom tubing.. 1.5" 1/4" wall = approx 8.75 per foot, gonna need about 14 feet. Ball joints.. approx 30 dollars each! that is for a mid grade, not cheap not expensive.. oh did i mension you will need 8? and they dont come with jam nuts.. thats another 2 bucks a piece. oh weldable inserts for your dom tube.. 8-10 bucks a piece.. again 8 of them. one more thing,,, got a welder, a lathe? oh crap.. back to springs.. about 150 bucks.. .. did you buy that steel yet? square tubing, and plate to fabricate your custom frame mounts? damn shocks too! 35-50 bucks each. and last but not least.. with a live axle in the front, you will have to have some custom exhaust work done. not to mension a new drive line.. and then there is the factor that you may have to build a custom cross member for the tranny, depending on how much lift you want. its not so cheap. take it from me.. i know how much a SAS costs on a pathfinder, using coil springs.

http://www.ringpinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf This is the best intallation procedure you can find. It shows step by step as well as how to read your print from the marking compound.

you can't check the back lash with marking compound. The marking compound only tells you if your pinion depth is right. to get the proper backlash you need a depth mike on a magnetic base. you must have got lucky cause the way you checked the back lash is wrong sorry if i sound a little harsh.. but...

ok, this is a really old post, but i have been out of the bbs for quite a while, and to defend myself, i was on a golf corse not too long ago outside of new castle new south wales and there werwe 8 roos on the 7th hole.. i have seen lots of them in Australia. i lived in sydney new castle area for almost a year.. and maybe were your at you don't see them that often but I know for a fact that they are plentiful

i'm not over qualified.. i just got you fooled into thinking so with all the info thrown at him, he should be able to figure it out.

i broke my timing belt once... bent 6 of 12 valves. I put them on grinding machine to see if they were bent. 5 of them you could see by eye but the 6th one you couldn't see until i spun it on a valve grinding machine. 3 intake 3 exaust. doing all the work myself cost 400 bucks. but in the process i reground all my valve seats and match ground the valves.. ran like a new car after.. still does at 240k.. wel it did when i parked it 2 years ago for the sas that still isn't finished... but i should be done around xmas..

Wild horse 4x4 bronco 3.5" lift coils, cut the top retainer off and you get 3" of lift, get the 5.5" lift coils and you get about 5" of lift.. see mine?

Hell, if you are going to go throught that much trouble to make a nissan tranny fit, why don't you just get a pre 86 divorced tranfer case?

Those bumpers are so common in oz. But there is a reason for it, Kangaroos!!! they are everywhere in the bush, you can even see small utes with those kind of bumpers.

I have one on the other side as well, they body panels are fiberglassed inside to seal. I have about 600 watts going to both. these are Resonant Engineering 8" subs, they can handle about 600 each.

Mr. Pickles, Do you use the AM PM on Meeker in Kent, nex to the golf corse? Thats the one that gave me bad gas. Twice, my truck ran like crap after filling there.

Mine has done that on 2 different occasions. Both of them When i got fuel from an AM PM in Kent Washington. Ran good fuel in it and went away.

I never owned an EB. I owned a 66 F100 4x4 but never an EB or we can confuse others and call it by its true name. =U100. I did my SAS with Full size stuff. He is 59"wms-wms i'm 65". I didn't have to do a sub frame as he did since my radius arms were farther outboard since i used full size componenets.

Yep,, got plans, even got the spare doors. just haven't done it. I guess getting the thing back on the road takes priority. I'm going to cut them down just past the door handle, and then come up just behind hte mirror. this way i can still latch the door. I'm also going to keep the upper part of the door just for looks.

OOPs Didn't pay attensin that i was in the 90 -95 secition,, if the 87 will work on the newer ones i have one to sell

Track bar, pan hard bar, all the same.. Sway bar.. no no no thats something different. Hey if you want a pan hard bar let me know, i have one in perfect condition i would sell for 30 bucks plus shipping. where are you at? email me if you are interested

Where do you find that stuff? I need some of it.

you should have a look at Mookies ride...

Ok.. so anybody who has done an sas should shim in then.. its not that hard.. if you have the money. If you have all the parts, you could do a leaf sprung sas in a weekend.. no doubt! If your going to put a similar motor in, do the sas firts. If your going to put in a small block do the motor swap first. this is so you don't have to readjust yours ride hight a second time int he front. gandios claims? there are a lot of us who have done Solid axle swaps.. just ask,, what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

Definately go ford! or even post 85 (i think) wagoneer. chunks are the same and any thing D44 will be cheap.. waggies will have a 6 lug pattern, D44 front and possible D44 rear or AMC 20. Do you want to be wider than original? Do you want to be the same width? Do you want leaf springs or coils? Do you want to use the original H233B? (this is not as difficult as you may think) Get a waggy front end, go leaf springs and you'll be done in a month or 2. If you go the route i did you'll need a couple of years...lol What size tires do you want to run? these will determin what donor you want.

a Few things to take into consierdatin. you don't want a 77-79 D44 from a bronco. they do not have stong axle tubes... if you really check into it you'll see. the radius arm mounts on the axle are part of the axle not welding onto the outside. Be care ful with the early 70's F150's they had a big mix of rear ends and not even the salvage yards know that much of what is offered. could have a Ford 9" could have a Ford 9.5 or 9.375 (same just different name) this is a big problem cuase there are no gears for them. and you have to change the entire 3rd member to get 9" gears Also could have a D44-3 or D60 (odd with 5 lugs but did exist)(D44-3 is Dana 44 Power lock!) if your going to go with coil springs, look for a used 76 bronco axle.... good axle tubes, disk brakes.

Yoshi got lucky and found a bronco set up. Those are really hard to find these days. He did one thing i don't understand. he went through all the trouble to make extended radius arms that use all the stock parts. The Radius arm design is inherant to binding. this is ALL ford radius arm designs. He went through all the trouble to build new radius arms and didn't put a wrist in them or at least change the frame mounting point to a heim joint. that just doesn't make sence. He would inclease his movment by either points above. The only reason i used the radius arms is cost and time. I do have plans in the future to change this to my own 3 link design. i even fabed my frame points to easily adapt them in the future. If you go with his design, wrist your radius arms or install Heim joints instead of the factory bushings. (My radius arm will be wristed in the near future. like before i'm done) Oh ya and as far as streetable.. there is a fine line of what is and is not legal... Besides the police don't work for the department of motor vehicles. as long as i get fender flares up front and mud flapps in the back they won't bother me too much. Besides, i'm building this for OFF ROAD use. Its gonna drive like crap on the road. Keeping it streetable is of low importance.