87pathy

good point, i didn't think of that :bow:

Or your radiator plugged.. You can get them tested for free normally.

darn calmini, I was going to go with one of their lifts before i desided to do an SAS but they told me the same things about the coils. and that was well over 1 year ago

-alcohol-

Ok, bring it on, Hell i'll scale it for you

dude you can get a complete ARB for your pathy for like 900 bucks and that replaces your carrier..

yes three marks if your off too much on your valve timing, say goodbye to your valves.. thats the crappy thing

sounds like a vaccuum leak. Chech all the vacuum hoses for cracks and holes ect.

that would just change your distributor timeing but would not change the valve timing if in fact that is the problem

Me either but you drained the rad. the bottom hose is connected to the engin is it not? and there is no thermostat to hold any coolant back. Mudfinder - I'd try this, it took me a week to find out WTF was going on, the first time i changed the thermostat.. it over heated and when i would pull the cap of the radiator it looked full. Then i pulled the cap off started it and after a few it went down. I filled it up and no more problems. I even verified this when my water pump went. Same problem

is it making a wineing sound when the clutch is depressed? if so, mine started doing this several years ago and i still havn't changed it

In addtion, most belts that you buy have marks on them to show you where they ares supposed to be in relation to the marks that will be on the gears. Gears normally have a punch mark on them and the belt will have some lines on it its really not hard to do at all, i did it with abosolutley no knowledge of what i was doing at the time.

a bit spendy but Napa part number 274341 at $134.00 is what your looking for is it not?

Filling the radiator on a pathy actually takes some know how. I've changed my water pump twice and the radiator once. Each time, i had to leave the filler cap off the radiator let it run till it warms up and the thermostat opens then watch your level go down rapidly. Fill at this time until you can't get any more in. Its quiete common to get air in the top of the engine when drained and this is where your coolent disappears to.

You'ld have to install a clutch pedal as well :secret:

Hey stay out of those recking yards, they're mine, thats were i get my misc stuff

I know what my next interior mod is going to be.. nice job :cool2:

i've heard mixed responses in regard to puralator, I guess its probably not so bad , i've ran them in my rigs from time to time (when i don't do my own oil change) and havn't had any problems, i alway tell them i don't care what kind of filter as long as its not a fram.

they did several things to them over the years, some of them had 10mm ring gear bolts some had 12mm then they changed the spline count. etc. etc

Thanks for the backup 88, those things are horrible. Like 88 said, use either wix, napa, or carquest (They are all made by wix) Also, if for a decent cheep oil, use Napa oil its made by Valvoline thus must meet their quality standars and it usually runs about 1.19 per quart

Once again, good write up :cool2: but please please please tell me you didn't put that or another FRAM filter on your pathy.. :oops: Those things should be outlawed. I've seen them plug up after 10min running, i've seen them come apart after 500 miles, they don't have a proper check in them so you get dry start ups. etc etc.

No question, about that, shops will rape you without a reach around.. just giving the kid some options. on what is possible. If you do the work yourself front and rear axle will cost you about 1000 - 2000 if you pay somebody to do it it will cost you about 5-6 grand front and rear.

I just read this and i only spent like 300 bucks for the front.. I did get my front end for 100 and it only needed wheel bearings and seals, and i did all the fab work myself, and the engineering, i'm not done mind you , i still need to change gears and get the drive line built but that will come with $$$$

Almost anything will do for a SAS but it depends on how much money you want to spend. If you want to run Nissan motor, tranny and xfer case you have to go ford. If you want leaf springs that makes it easier but don't get a 78 -79 dana 44 the axles tubes are crap..(they are different in these 2 years If you want coil springs any F100 will do the axles will be wider but i like that.. If you want to see some SAS work my web site is.. homegrown4x4

the odometer on my 87 stopped working 3 or 4 years ago.. good way to keep the milage down