87pathy

Ok.. I broke my timing belt several years ago. Damage = 6 bent valves. 3 intake 3 exhaust. I changes the 6 bent valves. (darn expnsive too exhust were like 20 bucks each and intake were similar) I ground all my valve seats, i match grinded my all my valves, new and old. Changed valve seals.. all necessay gaskets.. ext. I did ALL of the work myself and it cost 400 bucks. Total time was about.. 10-12 hours of work. If the mechanic is charging you 5000, he's totally ripping you off, that means he is charging you at least 300 bucks per hour. But i do know that if you take your rig in to get the timing belt changed they will try to charge you 800. when the timing belt is only 20 bucks. Its not that hard to do it yourself.

definately gussetting, Like i've stated in all of the notes.. I"M NOT FINISHED. i connected everyting first to make sure its working the way i want. it is so now to finsih up. Teh tubes will handle the torque just fine. I used the same material everybody else does in their rock buggies.. spyder trax, poison spider.. etc. I even have access to real engineers who have looked at my work and they say no problem. the link connection on the frame are diffinately not strong enough until i finish up all hte reinforcements.

here is one more so you can see the links.. they are 1.5 x .25 wall DOM, I made the inserts, and everything.

Ok, Rev asked for specs so here they are. Front: spring buckets, located on frame stand offs (this eliminated the necessity to shorten the axles) spring buckets were from a 76 ford F150. Radius arm mounts, Custom. I used 5 deg bushing for the radius arms. Then i had to locate the radius arm mounts at the proper angel to keep my castor angle correct. Springs are 5.5" wildhorse rock crawler series. These are normally for Early bronco. HPD44 axle Rear, Unless you have are very good in math, know somebody who is a geometry wize, who can fabricate anything necessary, and you have the formula to calculate it all.... Don't even try to do a triangulated 4 link. its not easy! (My job is custom fabrication of Heavy and specialty equipment) rear spring are 3.5" wild horse rock crawler series. They are located on 4 in stand offs from the axle. Ford 9" axle I have a 3 inch body lift installed. before i started I was running 30" tires, and had 13.5 inches of frame clearance. I know have nearly 24.5" I also have a custom Hand throttle, so i don't have to do the 2 foot 3 peddle shuffle. Stereo,, you only wish you had it! Over 600 watts, Resonant engineering 8" subs built into custom body pannels. I have added a couple of pics below so you all can see some more detail. I remind you ITS NOT DONE!!!

Thats pretty nice 521. Need to get rid of that rust up front between th drivers side fender and the rad support! to bad you don't live closer, maybe we could work out a deal on fixing up that pathy i'm pretty handy with a torch and welder.... see my pathy pics in the 86.5 forum.... or search for my latest posts..

ok, please educate me, Frist, the swap looks like a class act job! second is your rig a 4 wd or 2wd? if 4wd, what did you use for a transfer case? isn't the the holden left hand output on the transfer case.

Dude, that is a sweet 620, I've been looking for an older datsun for a comuter and possible a first vehicle for my daughter, you do you still have it? If so you want to sell it? I was looking at earlier 521's cause i like the boxy look, but for such a sweet 620 it would be intersteing. do you know of any 521's for sale? they are getting pretty rare.

thats not the partking brake... i have an anchor in the passengers seet. Hell there aint no brakes at all, even the cylinders re out of the drums.. i aint got no drive lines yet so what the hell do i need brakes for?

Gears haven't been changed, YET. But i will be running 5.13:1 and with hopes in the future to install a calmini xfer case gear reduction.. i believe its a 96% decrease.

Puyallup WA, I'm not on the road with the pathy, but i'll take my frontier on some mild stuff. I gotta be nice to it as its the family vehicle. next time anybody from the area goes wheelin, give me a ring, i don't have anybody to go with...

Pro comp makes some that are the Rancho 5000 equivalent and they are 5 bucks a piece cheaper (in general) these are what i'm going to be going with when i get that far..

dude... you better do something about all that rust! its everywhere!

I can get in it ok.. but its tall, i have 25 inches of frame clearace, and the lowest point other than that are my radius arm mounts, other than that, i'll have a skid plate that will be at 24 iches from the ground. its all comming together! besides, when was the last time you saw a Pathfinder on 36 x 12.50's you should have seen my 8 year old daughter try to get in it.....

I've been out of the boards for several months, due to the fact that i've been stuck in BFE, china for the last several months. During christmas however, i was home getting some much needed work done on my SAS and Rear axle swap. Its still not done but but getting closer and closer. If you want to see details fo what ha been done, have a look at - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HOMEGROWN4X4/

I wouldn't say You have to have a new tranny and T case. You might be able to use a 720 divorced transfer case.

yep, that happens, one of the reasons i went to a SAS

ya it wines and groans when i depress the clutch. Fortunately, the last time i drove it.. (10 months ago) it was realy bad, its time to fix it now, but the first thing is to finish my rear suspension. Hopefully back on the road this spring,

Ya, mines been doing that for 6 years.

Read my lips VACCUUM LEAK!!!! I could be wrong but that same thing happens with a motorcycle, old V8, lawmowers, etc. etc. etc. when you have a bad vacuum leak

//4. Pressure Control Solenoid = 3.6 Ohms // I would say that this coil is no good. i asked our electrical engineer, and he says that since its a DC coil, you can get an idea of what the resistance is. he said someware between 20 - 35 ohms depending on the size of the coil. if you are only reading a couple of ohms, which you are on this coil, it is probably burnt inside and conducting the current directly or close to directly back to the other leg of the coil. as far as the different readings of the coils from after running to not running, this is just heat causing different resistance.

UCA'S = Upper Control Arms Also, Check out Fab tech, I think they make a two wheel drive lift (you are a two wheel drive aren't you?) But i know total Chaos does.. they specialize in Toyota but also have some Nissan stuff.

personally waiting to finda a new 4.0 v6 out of the new frontiers in a couple years. :cool2:

Just on a note, Nissan manuals have a lower tow rating than automatics, I asked a tech once why and he said the clutch due to different driving habits. I'd say no problem Just FYI

Sorry just had to be a smart A$$ its in my nature

You could probably use the seats, worst case senario is that you have to make new mounts wich if you have no fabrication ability then i think you'ld be SOL