jj big shoe

No problem, Bud. Glad to help.

Great job! I was thinking about how to make a short-throw for mine (it was #473 on the to-do list, but I was thinking about it). If you could get the price down to more like $45-$50 I'd get one.

Schneider Racing Cams will regrind yours for about $230 a set. They have like 5 different grinds to suit whatever application. I've got them in my 87.

If someone here decides to make 'em, I'm buyin.

I've seen a few XJs with old Chrysler LeBaron louvers. Looks pretty good. Linky

Its prolly a loose fusibe link connection. The tabs inside the connectors get corroded and funky and probably came loose when you were hooking up the amp power. I tried to scan the schematic from my service manual, but somethings wrong with my scanner. Looks like the related wire from the fusible link connector would be the white/black one. That's the one that'll carry 12v thru to the interlock relay, clutch switch (M/T) inhibitor relay, etc. down to the starter solenoid. I removed all the fusible links in mine and replaced them with a fuse block and stab in fuses because I took a right turn one time before the wiring change and my truck shut off. Ends up the battery slid a few inches and wiggled the fusible link connector enough to break the 12v ignition connection. Hope this helps. Good luck.

You're half right. What happens is the CL twists and flexes upwards when offroading and the force ovals out the BJ mounting hole on the CL. Since the BJ metal is harder, the CL loses the fight and must be replaced. The Hooha and now defunct L&P CLs solve the problem by chopping off the BJ mounts and welding in spherical bearings which allows the CL to twist under load w/o being damaged. Seeing as the stock replacement is about $100 and you will need to replace it each and every time you take your truck on even a moderate trail, an aftermarket one is definately a good investment.

You can try runing a tap (14mm 1.5 pitch) into the hole and clean the threads out. Most times its the bolt that gets chewed to hell since the frame steel is harder than the bolt. Once its all cleaned out, spin your new bolt in and compare it to the undamaged side to see if it wobbles around excessively. If so, prolly damaged the frame bolt too much, but if it doesn't move around too much you might've dodged a bullet. IMO, don't get the new bolts at the hardware store. They're only $6 or so at the dealer and will be correctly spec'ed out as far as shear strength and such.

I installed reground cams from Schneider Racing (256/.420") during my engine swap. They have five different grinds now, all for about $225 a set. I used a set of their springs and got new lifters on my own but there seems to be a bit of ticking from a few of them. I'm not sure if it's bad lifters or a problem with the lifters reaction to the new cam profiles. One day I'll swap my old lifters back in and see what happens.

I had the same problem with the swivel hose ends, too. Not initially, but after I tried to move the oil filter end around in the engine bay to remount it is when it started to drip. It might've been that I flexed it too much trying to get it to fit where I wanted it. I think I ended up with the same fix as you mentioned, but I've since bought new 36" lines and located the filter on the trans crossmember. Losta space under there.

Blech!! I wouldn't know whether call a mechanic or a coroner. Prolly just match job to the whole car and let State Farm get me another one.

Definately don't use an air rachet. The torque specs for the valve cover bolts are in inch lbs, you could just use a screwdriver and twist them down a little.

Cool, thanks for the links. One more thing on the "to do" list i suppose.

It should cost you around $1,500, maybe a couple bucks more if it has low miles and a decent interior. I'm just saying if you have the space you might consider buying a 4WD Pathfinder and swapping the good bits from yours into it. Or sell yours (unless you've really modified it already) and start with the 4x4 platform. Prolly way easier and more cost effective. Yeah, I think Steevo added an axle to his but then again he makes 4x4 parts, which gives you an idea of his mechanical ability and the kind of tools he must have. If you really love your particular Pathy, then by all means do the swap. I'm just saying that all the money and effort might be better spent improving a 4x4, not making one.

Lifter shimming? Is that why my VG sounds like a sewing machine? I have a set of reground cams from Schneider and thought the noise might have been the new lifters I bought since I got them from some Ebay store. I was considering resurfacing my old lifters and swapping them back in but how would one go about shimming lifters?

Wow, after going to three or four fastener specialty places, two tractor/farm equipment supply warehouses and umpteen sites on the web I figured they didn't exist. Good to know you can find them if the need arises.

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Are you sure they're Grade 8 or better? If not, you might share the same fate as Kittamaru soon. I searched everywhere for longer bolts to fix what I thought was an alignment issue and no one I contacted manufactures a 14mm with a 1.5 pitch in a Grade 8 or better thats longer than stock. Metric bolt shear strength is represented differently than SAE. If your metric bolt has 8.8 stamped on it then that bolt has a shear strength of 116,000-120,000 psi, which equates to a Grade 5. The metric equivalent of a Grade 8 bolt's shear strength would be marked 10.9 and have a shear strength of 150,000 psi. I don't know what the stock bolts are rated, but I'd replace them with the strongest available and certainly wouldn't want to put a bolt in where the stress and loads can be in the tons if it is a weaker one. And a longer bolt makes it even more prone to failure. Also, if you need longer UCA spindle bolts, your t-bars are probably cranked too high. Since the UCAs are shorter than the LCAs, your wheel will actually start to tilt in at the top when you raise it too high. I have the Superlift A-arms and they do the same thing. I had a helluva time with my front end until I called a tech at Superlift and he explained it to me. Once you take a look at the geometry, it makes sense.

I'd be glad to help you with it if you can wait a few weeks. I'll be moving to a place off Proctor and once I get settled a bit we could tear into it and see what's up.

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Not sure what you mean here. Or here. The crank pulley has a series of marks along the edge. These are timing marks and are used to adjust the ignition timing for your engine. Going clockwise, the first mark is zero, then the next is 5*, then 10* and so on in five degree increments. The timing belt is for valve timing (so they open and close at the right time in relation to the pistons) and the timing marks are used as a reference for ignition timing (when each spark plug will fire). But the end of the crankshaft should be cut in such a way that the balancer will only fit on in the correct position anyway, but if your balancer is like mine and can be separated from the pulley then you could set your engine at TDC and install the balancer so that the timing mark furthest to the left (0*) lines up with the pointer on the belt cover.

We'll let that one slide I guess... RUNNY Rabbis Unite! No New Yiddish! RABBI