jj big shoe

Here are links to the installation instructions for both kits complete with the part lists. Link to HB .pdf Link to PF .pdf

I think 87Pathy might thrash his more than some of us. I do agree with him under those cirumstances, but mostly its not an issue for me. I do carry a stock filter and oil when I go wheeling just in case a hose gets cut, though.

Your stock rims are 15 x 7, IIRC. They will fit though. The sidewalls will just bulge a little more than if they were mounted on an 8" rim. Ask the shop that's going to mount them if they will do it. Some won't due to liability since the tire isn't designed for a 7" rim. You'll need at least a 3" lift to fit them plus some flare trimming and they will still rub a little offroad. I have 32" A/Ts with a 3" suspension lift and they rubbed when offroad until I added a 2" body lift.

Yup, a very tight fit between the headers and the frame rail but doable. IIRC, you'll have to bust a knuckle or two with a strap wrench to get it off. You can mount a relo kit without removing the headers, it's just tricky. Attach the hoses to the block adapter first, then twist it onto the block through the wheel well. If you do get the relo kit you can buy a set of 36" hoses and mount it to the trans x-member.

Do you have an aftermarket ignition? Some like the MSD 6AL have chips so you can select the rev limit. Dunno if it would, but it might override the programmed limit in the ECU if you had that setup.

Maybe lurk on a couple Z31 sites? If they're moving the powerband up maybe you can do the opposite to move it down a bit. Or talk to Schneider Racing Cams. Dunno what adjustable cam gears will run you, but my reground cams were only $200

Longer bolts cost more, plus the 3" has a few bore bits than the 2". Gas fill and vent tube extenders come to mind, but I think there's a few more. I think AC has the install instructions on their website and if you look at them there's a few steps that say "3 inch kit only". Those will be the additional parts.

I have a Flowmaster 50, which is supposed to be a bit quieter than the 40 series, Magnaflow cat and 2.5" pipe from it back and it doesn't sound ricey or drone too much IMO. You'll never get that snarl like a V8, but its not a bad sounding exhaust. BTW, I've also got Thorley headers.

Damn you, King Dark Lord. You know your subjects too well.

Yeah, I was thinking the stock frame mount would probably be too low. I'll have to crawl around and raise the rear with a forklift or something to see how it would move and where to mount whatever ram I find. Then after a bit of that I'll prolly have no time again, lose interest or just get frustrated with the whole project and forget it. Man, I should get a teaching degree so I can have a month or two of summer off each year and get stuff done.

Gotcha, but what about the hydro system were talking about now? Once the rams are locked they should work just like the solid stock links, right? And yes, it would be less expensive to use traditional discos, but where's the fun in that?

See if the reard do it too. If not, swap 'em and check again.

My guess would be condensation collecting in the bottom for 18+ years or so. I fixed mine with fiberglass. Just cut out the old rusty bits and tape a piece of cardboard covered with some aluminum foil on the underside of the hole for a form. Once it dries, sand it a bit and hit it with paint.

I don't get you question, maybe you're asking about one of MY1PATH's posts. I'm thinking of linking each upper and lower port on each side, not one side to the other. I think that would work. Let the fluid run from upper to lower on each ram for flex, then block it when on road. bigmatt suggested dual-port hydraulic rams instead of air shocks a few posts into this so that's why the line lockers would be used now. Even though I'd like to, I don't know if I'll ever really get around to doing it, but it is fun to think about anyway.

I definately want to try this. I'm thinking link the upper and lower port on each cylinder with a "line lock" valve in between. I'm not too concerned with the (theoretical?) added benefit of linking the cylinders together. One thing to consider is if you can hook the valve up so its normally closed with no voltage applied (locking the swaybar) and opens when you put 12v to it. I'd rather have the system fail on the trails at low speed than suddenly have a lot of unexpected body roll on the street, especially if someone else is driving it at the time. I wonder how long one of those solenoid valves can stay open without damage? They're really designed to operate a short time while you're doing a burnout. And where the hell is Bernard? He used to chime in on this kinda stuff. Paging Precise1...?

Dunno how 88 did it, but I tried removing the charcoal canister and capped the lines and had a vacuum problem nightmare. Must've goofed up somewhere. I did however remove all the AIV stuff without a hitch.

Sorry, I didn't clarify that mine used to rattle like hell all the time before I stuffed the rubber hose in the hinge. It actually stops the rattle since it takes the slop out of the worn bushing and if you cut it the right length it will stay put when the carrier is opened. Try it. Helluva lot easier than replacing the bushings.

Very cool. I'll have to add that to my "to do" list, number 4,657. I like trick stuff like that because its so different.

Cut a small piece of fuel line or similar hose and wedge it in the hinge so the carrier pinches it when its shut. Mines been like that for years and doesn't rattle over speedbumps, potholes, offroad or anywhere.

If I'm seeing this right, you wouldn't need a remote reservior since all you're doing is blocking the fluid from flowing from one end of the cylinder to the other with the solenoid? So you would run a line from the upper and lower ports on each cylinder with a solenoid valve in each line. Close the valve and no fluid transfer, rock solid. Open it and fluid will flow unrestricted allowing the swaybar to move with the axle. That actually seems a lot simpler and solid than air. As long as its a remote system there shouldn't be an issue with the swaybar being level. You'd just leave it open until you get back on pavement then flip the switch.

Good deal. That seventh wire is coming from your coil. If that isn't connected, your distributor has no voltage to "distribute" to the spark plugs and she won't run. Sounds like you got it.

Yeah, but I drive like a jackass sometimes and having no swaybars on mine at all makes things... interesting. If anything it'll be one more thing to justify an OBA system.

I was wondering if there would be a way to use air shocks in place of the rear swaybar links so that they would hold (relatively) stiff when aired up and let the axle articulate when purged. I've been bouncing different ideas around in my head and I like the sound of this one since it could be controlled remotely and you wouldn't have to worry about securing the swaybar like you would with actual discos. Any idea how much force is on the stock links during normal conditions and how stiff could you get an air shock to be? I thought I saw some advertised that said they would increase the payload capacity 1,100 lbs.

Maybe, I might be wrong on what the voltage was when I was t'shooting the problem. I thought it was 8.5v, maybe it was 4v, I can't recall. What I do remember is it would read "x" and start, then read less than "x" and not turn over. I turned the key like a dozen times and each time it wouldn't start, the voltage was low through that switch.

If a vac line is cracked or disconnected it could be sucking air into the manifold which would create enough of a lean condition to stall the engine when you gas it. I had a vac line problem after my engine swap and it would run fine for a while but I think the lean condition was causing weak combustion which left unburned fuel in the cylinders and fouled the plugs. After running like that long enough, it plain wouldn't start.