jj big shoe

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Too tight could snap the ends off your cams. Don't do that. Are you saying the cam gears spun when you removed the timing belt? Normal stuff, no big deal. The cam is under load from the valve springs. Some valves are open, some closed and the valve springs pushing against the cam lobes will make it spin around when in the right spot. First, find TDC. Remove the #1 spark plug (passenger side closest to the radiator). With the timing belt removed, turn the crank clockwise (CW) until you feel the air pushing your finger off the #1 plug hole. That's the compression stroke. Do NOT use a paper towel or rag. You could suck part of it into the cylinder - very bad. Once the piston comes up a bit, put a pencil, a straw or something that won't scratch the piston head down into the #1 hole and feel for the piston. Now turn the crank CW until the pencil is at its highest point. That's Top Dead Center. (Your harmonic balancer's zero degree mark -furthest to the left- would be at the 12 o'clock position. Use that for reference when you remount it if needed). Now line the marks on the cam gears up with the dimple marks on the cover and slide the belt on. Put it on the crank first, then the left cam, then the right (IIRC, fitting the left cam before the right is easier for some reason. But maybe its the other way around). Be sure to only put it on 1/4" or so. If not, it'll seem like the belt is too short. Don't pry it or force it on. It'll take a little finesse, but it will fit. And if your cams move during this step, don't panic. Just turn them so they line up with the marks again and try again. Check other posts for the correct tooth count between gears to be sure. Now mount the idler and tighten per the previous link instructions. Check tension by twisting the belt 90 degrees between the cam gears or measuring deflection - 10mm @ 22ft.lbs or something like that. Just do the twist deal. Before you're ready to button it all back up, turn the crank CW a few times and make sure nothing bangs into anything else. BTW, Once you turn the crank the lines on your belt won't line up to the marks for the next 22 revolutions or so, don't worry about it. They're only reference for the initial install mounting. It looks harder than it is, don't be skeered. *Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I smoked a lot of pot in high school, but I have done this a few times. Your best bet is to follow instructions in previous posts and ask questions if you have a problem.

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Good one.

You could do the ol' ashtray delete. These are for the adjustable shock controller and measure 1 3/4" in diameter. You could prolly squeeze a third guage in where the lighter is. It'll take a bit of hacking since there's a metal bar on the trim above the ashtray, nothing a Dremmel can't handle, though. I used a scrap piece of plexi, painted the back and scuffed the front with a Scotch Brite pad so it wouldn't look too glossy.

My 87 SE has all three in the dash cluster stock.

Kinda vanilla. I'd go for something that doesn't look quite so beige and washed out (this coming from a guy who painted his Pepsi can blue). I like the color, its the tone I think misses the mark a little. Look less like rough military and more like "I'll be there at six with the tofu wraps, mmmkay?". Then again I haven't seen one in person so the pic might not do it justice. Just my assho...er, I mean opinion.

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Having the cams a tooth or two off would definately cause a loss of power like you described. The valves aren't open/closed at the right times. Check out the link below: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 It's a good guide and should cover most of your problems. Other tips: Hope this helps.

Yup, looks like the oil pressure sensor to me, too. And yes, it should have a wire connected to it. Did you notice your oil pressure guage reading zero or dash light on when the wire was disconnected?

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Humph...triangular windows are the shizz.

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A friend of mine from high school's dad lived in a house like that. There was absolute crap everywhere. He had to literally force the fridge door open against bags of trash and newspapers to get to his beer, total drunk. He had the rear axle from one of his various non-running vehicles half-torn apart in his living room for over two years, cat crap everywhere (he didn't own a cat), a spare bedroom filled at least 4 feet high with God knows what. The neighbors had finally had it when the porch collapsed from the weight of a 6 inch snowfall. He was ordered to clean the place up and it took four or five loads in a 30-yard dumpser to even make a dent in the crap.

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Holy Jeebus! 7Gs for a '90? You can have mine for six if you want it. Check out craigslist in your area. I'm looking for a new car for work right now. Tons of good deals out there, I'm sure someone is selling a decent Pathy you could pick up for $2500 or less.

I bought replacement fenders through a body shop for about $75 each. These were aftermarket so fittment wasn't as good as OEM, but they worked out with a little massaging. You might find some for the same price online, but it's the shipping that will kill you. The body shop prolly won't charge shipping. And be sure to order 4WD fenders, not 2WD since the "bulge" is different. HB doors should work. You could cross reference part #s at rockauto.com for compatible model years.

You'll have to know info specific to your drivetrain, but this might help. Gear Ratio Calculator

That looked promising until I added them to my basket. I thought the $180 price was for four, not per tire. For that price I'd rather go with a new set of BFG's.

In the hearts and minds of each and every one of us, from our founder down to the newest member. Oh wait, thats Scientology. I'm pretty sure that NPORA is based someplace in the PNW that smells like gear lube and Cheetos.

The kit should have some gold-colored plates that mount between the frame and bumper brackets to raise it up 2". They're not exactly the strongest, but they will raise it up where it'll look right.

A trick I used to find manifold/header leaks is to pour something down the throttle body that will smoke and look around for leaks. If you haven't de-gunked your engine recently, using Seafoam as directed should produce enough smoke. If you're engine is really clean already, a bit of ATF fluid should do it. I had my drivers side header on and off three times thinking I missed something until I did the ATF trick. Ends up it was leaking through a cap I had made to block off the bung to the AIV stuff I had removed earlier.

I swapped mine by myself. Not easy, but certainly doable. You'll have to remove the front axle since the oil pan won't clear, putting it back in was the biggest hassle for me. I got it out w/o removing the torsion bars, but no way was it going back in the same way so I had to pull one out. Anyway, once you have the engine prepped for removal, take a really good look at the angle its sitting front to back and match it when you drop the new one in. Test grab it a couple times and make adjustments to the chain, you should be able to get it. Be prepared to put a jack under the trans to get the bolts lined up correctly in case you need to go from this / l to this l l. And a standard engine hoist should be fine as long as you don't leave a bunch of slack in the chain. Oh, and the headers will have to be put on once the engine is in. They won't clear the bell housing if you bolt them up beforehand.