jj big shoe

That's like 3mpg. I think the M1A1 Abrams gets about that. I was saying I've put 3 tanks thru the system since I got it back on the road after about a year so I wouldn't think it had to do with bad gas or condensation.

Funny thing is, I drove about 150 miles today and it only slightly hicupped once. I'll take a good look at the wiring while I'm fixing the exhaust leak this weekend. BTW, I forgot to mention in the first post that I'm on the third full tank of gas and I put injector cleaner in the second one.

Damn you and your logical conclusions, B! I was thinking that if the O2 sensor voltage was to suddenly drop or go to open loop mode as if the sensor was cold it would make the engine run rich and bog a little during the switch.

Not yet. I'll have time this weekend but its pretty intermittant. I don't know if any code would be logged. Plus any time I've ever had a problem there haven't been any codes so it ends up sucking time and pissing me off. I'll run them, though.

87 V6 5-speed I finally got my Pathy back on the road a few weeks ago. I drove it to Tampa and back (100 mile trip) and when I pulled onto my street I heared the tell-tale sound of a throw-out bearing going kaput. I pulled the trans and swapped the clutch last week and now its hesitating every once in a while like its not getting fuel for a second or its mis-firing. I can't tell whether its fuel or spark related. I've changed plugs and wires The cap and rotor have about 2,000 miles on them and I've cleaned them as well Cleaned the air filter Checked timing Replaced fuel filter Fuel pump is about 6 yrs old The thing that keeps bugging me is it didn't sputter before I dropped the trans so could it be an O2 sensor problem? The sensor wiring runs over the trans so I moved it around a bit I'm sure. The wiring wrap is crusty and melted a bit I've never replaced it, has over 80K on it. I have an exhaust leak before the sensor at the flange and put Permatex Ultra Copper on the gasket to try and seal it (it said sensor-safe, though) I haven't had time to check codes, listen to the fuel pump, clean MAF, etc. That'll all get done this weekend. Anyway I'm wondering if I did have an intermittant O2 sensor problem due to shoddy wiring or whatever, what would the symptoms be? EDIT: After reading up on how the O2 sensor works, I'm leaning toward a wiring problem since the ECU constantly monitors the signal and adjusts accordingly. If the wires are occasionally shorting or open that would cause a sputtering/hestating, wouldn't it?

Wow, that does sound like fun. I had a blast this weekend as well. I welded up my Y-pipe, replaced the gasket for the passenger exhaust header and installed new spindle-to-frame bolts for the upper A-arms. Oh, and I also removed the torsion bars, two frame crossmembers, starter motor, front and rear drive shafts and the shifters in order to drop the transmission to replace the clutch. I got it all back together about 6:00pm and for some reason my radio doesn't work now.

The starter solenoid pulls a lever that throws the starter gear out to mesh with the flywheel. Once the 12v is cut off (i.e. you let go of the key) it should disengage and slide back. Sounds like the starter gear got hung up and didn't retract. That will usually sound like a Muslim dog as you described and is typical of the quality problems found in today's rebuilt parts market. I had one that wouldn't shut off. I had to jump out and yank the battery cable to make it stop. Chances are if you try to return it they'll bench test it and won't find a problem so you end up wasting an afternoon pulling it, getting a ride, getting no satisfaction from the parts guy and reinstalling it. I'd just keep an eye on it and if it acts up again swap it out.

So mine's actually a 4-door if you count the sunroof?

Are you sure its not an oil kinda smell? I know mine smoked a bit after putting it back together.

Fixed the pix.

Just like Nunya I am completely unbiased, but I might have a look at the 87. Seems like its got more going for it off the bat to me. Plus you already have a 4-door, don't you? If it checks out, maybe offer the guy $600. Then $800 if he includes the other engine and the full $1000 if he swaps the heads and lets you help. Keep in mind you're going to need at the very least new gaskets, a timing belt kit and a water pump. Can you change a timing belt? If so, then you can probably swap heads. Take a look at a Chilton's or Haynes manual and check out what's involved. Not too hard really.

There might be a difference in the axle gearing, but I'm pretty sure the transmissions are the same.

You can still get the good Sudafed, you just have to show ID and get it from the pharmacy. You can also develop alergies if you've moved to a new climate. Lots of people have trouble after they've been in FL a few years. My head is like a barometer and I get hard core sinus headaches that sometimes last 16 hours when the weather changes.

Agreed. That was the first thing I thought of when they came out with Lojack. Not that I was planning to, but what if I decided to rob a bank or something? I'll tell ya, when armageddon finally comes I'm grabbing something with a carburetor so the robots can't track me.

Y'know, it'll prolly work out fine for you. Have fun on it and don't listen to me. Ever. I'm a skeptical naysayer by nature. well, the oil pick up being located toward the front of the pan could have played a part.

Y'know, sometimes I feel like a fool since I know I'm dumping more money into my truck than I'll ever hope to get back out of it. Then I see stuff like this and I don't feel so bad anymore.

I think 24K is a bit much for that motor. I had a CBR 900RR that threw a rod at 22K and the shop guys said its pretty common. If that Kawi has been wound up most of its life (its a 500, so that's likely) it might be ready to pop. I'd sell your stuff and look to pay cash for something else. FL is crawling with good used 600s. I'm also a bit curious why it comes with "all kinds of body parts". But like you said, the stuff you're trading doesn't have much value to you so it might be worth it.

Well, when you tackle the timing belt job you'll want to replace the t-stat, water pump and cam seals while you're in there and take a peek at the crank seal, too. And once it's all apart there's not much holding you back from pulling the heads to get at the exhaust studs. After that, I'd do the tune-up stuff (plugs, wires, PCV, etc.) and see where you are before swapping out rockers and lifters and buying another MAF sensor. The paint-on defroster repair stuff is what, $20-$30? And likely is pretty tricky to get to look right. I'd check what a "new" rear hatch glass costs at a salvage yard first and take a meter with you to ohm out all the grid before getting it.

Like MY1PATH and nunya said, that's what my money is on. Is your motor toast because of the unknown oil leak or did it run w/o oil too long? I hope you caught it in time, bud.

That's great! But I'm a bit divided. Either that's an awesome display of musical talent or an example of just how easy it is to make techno/house music. Either way, you have to give it props for such gratuitous use of Electric Boogaloo footage.

Dunno about the alt shocking you, but this link solved my starter problem. Fully charged battery, new starter, new relay, etc. and it still would click ten or fifteen times before it would crank. Your problem could be that the old wiring isn't up to the job of getting enough juice to the starter. This adds a relay and throws 12v directly to the soleniod. Linky

The FSM for my 87 says: Warm engine turn diagnostic switch "on" after lamps flash 3 times, turn switch "off" read flashes Here's the note I think you're interested in: Caution - During displaying code # in self-diagnostic (mode 3) if another diagnostic mode should be done, make sure to write down the malfunctioning code # before turning diagnostic selector "on", or select the diagnostic mode after turning the ignition switch "off". Otherwise self-diagnostic information stored in the ECU memory will be lost. The stored codes should clear once you turn the mode selector switch back to the "on" position w/o turning the ignition key off. The FSM also says: codes stored in Mode 3 diagnostics will automatically be cleared once the starter is activated 50 times. If the item which has beed judged to be malfunctioning and stored in memory is again judged to be malfunctioning before the starter is operated fifty times, the second result will replace the previous one. It will be stored until the starter is operated fifty times more. Basically, the code will clear once you start your truck fifty times. If the code pops up again, it'll take another fifty times w/ no problem to clear. Are you sure you have the right O2 sensor and is the lack of a CAT throwing off the emission system?

Shoot some spray silicone all inside the window channel, that should help. I just replaced mine w/ a set I pulled from a Hardbody and neither would work well until I lubed them up.

My swap was a problem as well. I didn't have my vacuum lines run correctly. Once I figured that out, it still wouldn't start since I fouled the plugs trying to fire it w/ bad vac lines. Completely frustrating I know, but you'll get it.

Yeah. Its like seeing a skinny guy holding hands with a fat chick at the mall. If they're both walking along and she decides to break a hard right into Cinnabon, skinny is dragged along for the ride.