jj big shoe

Dunno about the buzzing, but you should check your headlight switch. The contacts in the switch are small, thin metal reeds and over time they get a tiny bit warped or dirty and don't make the contact anymore. They're tricky to clean because they are easily bent but its doable. Once you pop the cover off the switch you'll see how it works.

But the doctors say I'm much better now. Plus If I eat all my applesauce and behave during "community time", I get to go to the zoo next week.

Not really. You can't install a Lock Right locker in an LSD.

IIRC, Didn't you have dial-up until about 3 years ago?

Yes, there is a return spring/cable setup inside the brake drum. Grab a can of brake cleaner and clean everything up inside, that might do it.

10-4, bud. I didn't mean to question your integrity, but the "dick" comment kinda threw me off. I have a lot of respect for law enforcement and what they do, but each officer is just a person under the uniform and some will let the authority get the better of them. If your waiter or the guy at the bank is being a dick, no big deal. But if the cop that you're interacting with is being one, that creates a whole different situation for you. Honestly, I hope you get the job, man. I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers. And I definately agree sometimes a little "attitude adjustment" is warranted when dealing with a douche.

Yeah, those shows are basically a half-hour infomercial for the show's sponsors. You'll get a few tips and whatnot but mostly its a spotlight for the companies supplying build parts. One exception is Chop, Cut, Rebuild. Still a bit contrived, but at least they're not working with an unlimited budget and pumping out the same "Overhaulin'" type show cars all the time. But mostly it's the lack of diversity in their race coverage that makes me nuts. Good Lord, I hope they never do that show. As much as I'd like to see it, the American producers would suck the good out of it and flash it up like Bullrun or something.

Are you referring to Versus? They show Indy car and some Dakar Rally highlights, but their programming is kinda all over the place. Hunting, cycling, fishing, etc. It's ok, but I'd like to see something more along the lines of what Speed used to be: Auto, Moto, Boat and Air racing.

Not to bust balls, but no. Your job will be to uphold the laws and provide for the safety of the citizens in your jurisdiction. Once you pin on that badge you are held to a much higher standard of conduct than a civilian. Agressive, authoritative? Sure. But if you ever act like an a-hole in any situation you are not doing your job. Bouncers are paid to be a-holes, not cops.

I know. Speed Channel stinks ever since Fox bought it. You used to be able to see things like WRC, BTTC and Austrailian V8 Supercar all the time. Now if you're lucky, they might show one or two races from a series like that at 2am on Sunday. I'm soo over NASCAR. Now before I get flamed by fans, it's not so much the racing itself but the oversaturation. NASCAR is like the Hannah Montana of motorsports. It's friggin' everywhere. And Speed has those ridiculous ancillary programs that they show over and over and over again. They used to show stuff like Austrailian Jetsprint Boat (You Tube it. It's insane) and German Touring Car racing and even the Isle of Man TT. Not anymore. Maybe if we all start watching the NASCAR shows all the time they'll have enough ratings to justify starting a separate NASCAR channel and we could get some of the old Speed programming back.

I applied when I was about 20. Didn't pass the "Have you ever smoked pot" question, though. I figured they might want a NARC with some first-hand experience. But seriously, a call-back within a month's time is prolly a pretty good sign. Good luck.

Give Napa a call. They prolly won't know the size, but they might be able to match up the bearing once you pull it off.

Poor Speed Channel. Try as they might, there just isn't enough races to fill a 24-7 cable channel. If there was more than one form of motorsport they could televise they'd have it made. Sure the Brickyard, Daytona, Talledega, Richmond, etc. coverage can be stretched out for a few hours on Sundays, but then what? I mean, they're doing what they can but there's just way too many programming hours to fill once the NASCAR race is over. And since they are Speed channel and racing is what they do, they fill time with fine shows like: NASCAR Race Hub Building the NASCAR Hall of Fame NASCAR Hall of Fame Biography Fast Track To Fame (Seriously?) Trackside At... Inside the Headsets The Racing Chef (SERIOUSLY?) NASCAR Smarts NASCAR All-Star Challenge NASCAR (insert series) Practice NASCAR (insert series) Final Practice NASCAR (insert series) Qualifying NASCAR (insert series) Replay NASCAR Performance NASCAR Victory Lane NASCAR in a Hurry Sounds of NASCAR NASCAR Classics And they have to run them over and over again to cover the time between actual NASCAR races. If we could come up with another form of racing, maybe Speed wouldn't have to base there entire programming schedule around NASCAR. We could race cars on tracks with hills and turns. Maybe small cars that'll run timed race segments on dirt and snow...or even get some folks together and race some sort of two-wheeled transport. Perhaps we could even start a type of motorsport in Europe. I hear they like cars, too. Man, I feel bad for Speed Channel. If only there were something other than NASCAR that they could air...

Mmmm...Beefy!

My 87 has always pointed straight in the middle before the t'stat opens. I don't remember if I installed a 180 or a lower one, though.

I just finished a Rustoleum paint job on mine, too but I used a foam roller. Took a while and a whole lot of sanding but it looks pretty good. I haven't popped a lot of pics of it yet, but here's one.

Holy doppleganger, Batman! I was born in B'ham, AL and guess what JJ is short for. Maybe you could pop in on my mom in Pelham for me? I haven't been in a while and I'm feelin' a little guilty.

If you're getting the infamous "click" and nothing, read this before you spend $$ needlessly. I tried to chase down a starter problem that I had for two years. When you'd turn the key, it would only click. Not all the time, very random, but would happen about 30% of the time when you tried to start it. Once it would click, it usually would take 5 to ten turns , click-click-click then start. Ends up the wires that carry the juice to the starter solenoid were getting old and wouldn't pass enough voltage to fully activate it. If that sounds like what's going on with yours, follow the link's directions and splice a relay into the circuit that'll throw 12v directly to the solenoid. I did and mine starts every time now.

Which leg?

Is that in mode 3? Those are stored codes, but I would think you'd see something... Click this link and read the entire first post. Follow the proceedure for Mode 5, real time diagnostics. Mode 5 looks like it specifically tests the CAS and MAF. If Mode 5 checks out I'm pretty much flat out of ideas other than making a new post with all the symptoms and the sequence of what you've tried already. That should get a response from others who might have some direction for you. Good luck.

I would think you'd have an 11 (CAS) or possibly a 12 (MAF) code, but anything other than 55 (no malfunction) needs to be corrected. There's a write up in the "how to" section of the garage if you're not sure how to pull the codes. Like I said I'm no expert on it, but it sounds to me like you're in fail safe mode for some reason. Maybe someone who's truck has been in fail safe mode could chime in and desribe what the engine sounds like or something?

Well, f'glass won't rust if that's what you mean. But any rust you f'glass over will still continue to grow to the good metal around it. That's why its important to cut all of it out that you can. The small remaining rust spots should be sprayed with an actual rust inhibitor and painted before you cover it up.

The rear glass on the 87-89 is bullet-proof and therefore heavier. One more reason 2-doors ROCK!

You, sir, are in fail safe mode. [Man, I learn more about my own truck looking up stuff in the FSM for other people.] The FSM says (paraphrasing): 1. Air flow meter malfunction If the AFM output voltage is less than the specified value, the throttle sensor substitutes for the AFM. It is still possible to drive, but engine speed will not go over 2800 RPM to warn the driver of the problem 2. Injector malfunction When RPM is less than 2000 in the alternating injection mode and injection pulse angle is less than 79 degrees (crank angle), if one injector doesn't inject fuel four times in a row because of an electrical problem the ECU senses this and will not go over 2800 RPM. The air flow meter (or mass air flow sensor [MAF] as its usually referred to around here) measures the air going into the engine thru the throttle body. Its a black rectangular plastic box mounted on the driver's side of the throttle body, a little bigger than a Zippo lighter, and will have one plug with six or eight wires going to it. There's a write-up on how to clean it on this forum somewhere so try that first. The crank angle sensor is part of the distributor and AFAIK cannot be replaced by itself. You need a new dist if it fails. The sensor monitors engine speed and piston position for the ECU (engine control unit). This signal is the basis for fuel injection and ignition timing. Even though number 2 says "injector malfunction" its prolly not the injector itself. The problem is more likely the sensor that controls or monitors when the injector is supposed to fire which would be the crank angle sensor (CAS). I don't have first hand knowledge of the CAS going kaput but based on what I've read on this forum, that's the likely culprit. If no one else chimes in and confirms what I think it is, start another thread with the topic "Is my crank angle sensor bad?" or something. I'd hate to point you in the wrong direction. Good luck.

That's prolly your problem. Get the #1 piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. To do that, remove the #1 spark plug (passenger side closest to the grille). Turn the crank clockwise by hand and put you finger over the plug hole. When you feel air pushing your finger off the hole, that's the compression stroke. Now either look down the hole or put a dowel, wire or something that won't scratch the piston surface into the hole and determine when the piston is at its highest point. That's TDC. The rotor inside your distributor should be pointing at the contact inside that corresponds to the #1 plug wire. If not, pull the dist out and line the gear up so that it does. Put it all back together and check it with a timing light. Factory timing is about 12, but 15 seems to work a little better IMO. The timing marks on the crank pulley are in 5 degree increments going clockwise. The first is zero, then clockwise next is 5, then 10 and so on. They're hard to see so you may need to highlight them with white-out or something. When you're at TDC, the pointer on the timing cover should line up with the zero mark. That'll let you know where they start. On my 87, the crank pulley and balancer are two separate pieces. This means the pulley can actually be mounted to the balancer incorrectly which would throw the timing marks waaaay off. If your rebuilder did this, you'd know by the TDC/pointer at zero check I mentioned earlier. No big deal, you'd just have to unbolt and mount the pulley correctly. If the dist already lines up when at TDC or this doesn't help, the timing belt may be a couple teeth off. To check that, you'll have to pull the accessory belts and timing belt covers off and count the belt teeth between the gears. There should be 40 teeth between the timing marks on the left and right cam gears and 43 between the left (driver's) cam gear and crank gear marks. Good luck and keep us posted.