jj big shoe

Good eye, I glossed right over that. If LR89 is right about those temps, that might have something to do with it. I'd start looking into what it takes and what to look out for with LPG conversions.

Overheating is usually the reason for failed head gaskets. Your cooling system is good, right? Maybe you could try a bottle of Bars Leak Head Gasket Repair. If it works it'll get you by for a while, but I would plan for a proper repair in the future.

Hey Bud, I'm in Sarasota and wouldn't mind having a look at that thing sometime. Here's a pic of my junk...

Pretty simple to check. Jack up one front wheel then have a buddy move it side to side and up and down. You'll prolly see some play in your tie rods or center link.

The difference is about $35-$40 per side.

Until you're behind it on a two-lane with a 7% uphill grade. Didn't Fred Flintstone come up with a similar vehicle a while ago?

If there's a wiring connector attatched to your shocks you prolly have the stock adjustables. If you still have the original shocks from '91 they prolly don't work anymore.

I haven't been on the highway since the tire swap, but I'd regularly cruise around 75-80mph. It'll go a little faster, but I don't think there's too much "umph" above that.

The alt should have a bolt under the alt on curved slotted bracket and a long 10mm bolt that acts as a tensioner. Loosen that bolt, then the long bolt which runs thru a threaded piece that the 1st bolt clamps down. You'll see what I mean once you start on it. It might be easier to get to the long bolt thru the wheel well. The power steering pump has cutouts in the pulley to access the bolt you need to loosen (IIRC, it's toward the bottom). You'll have to bump the starter until it lines up or rotate the crank with a 22mm socket. Once loosened, there's another long tensioner bolt like the alt. The A/C belt idler (top center of the engine) has a bolt in the center of the pulley that you loosen, then loosen the long 10mm bolt running straight down toward the pulley.

The coil would normally be mounted on the driver fenderwell, at least on a Pathfinder it is. It might have been moved if the AIV box rusted out and ate through the mounting location (mine did).

Yeah, but the ducks only come by at the end so yesterday's game was a washout. Too bad since Earl was there with the chips and kerosine lamps.

Wheel travel is 6.5". That's with Superlift UCAs, low profile bumpstops, the T-bars removed and the weight of the front end compressing the lower bumpstops. There's a bunch of info on the Sway-Away website in the Tech Room link. It made my head hurt. I also found a couple torsion bar rate and coil rate calculators but couldn't make much sense of them either. http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/torsionrate.htm http://www.alternativecarparts.com/utilities/torsionbars.html

Check the link. It's an article from MoabJeepers where they real world-tested several brands in head-to-head pulls. The Chicago Electric one held up better than some of the big name winches. Winches in Hell

Local Authorities Undermine Gang Heist EXTRA

You've definately earned the MacGyver Attaboy Award of the week. Good job, man.

Could carbon build-up cause some sort of pre-ignition scenario? If a cylinder ignites before TDC, couldn't that force it back down the bore and make the engine cycle in reverse?

Toyota Owners: People In Crisis PEDAL

Yeah, me too actually. Trouble is it only looked good for a few months then it started to fade. After a year the top surfaces were cracked and 6 months after that it was embarrassing to drive it looked so bad. If I had the space and tools I would have re-sprayed it "Pepsi can blue" again but with better quality paint. It was a cool color.

Yeah, a helluva lot of work, though. There's still a few areas where you can see the sanding scratches but it looks pretty good, especially for what it is. Most folks are surprised when I tell them its Rustoleum, even some old hot rod guys gave me props. I'll try to pop a few pics this weekend after I install the new BL. I traded my tires and rims for 33x13.5 Swampers and now I can't turn without slashing up the tires, D'oh! It'll never get that deep gloss like the base/clear jobs on newer cars. Its more like the old 70's laquer cars, but still nice. And you can't do metalics or flakes or anything because the flakes won't be dispersed evenly since you're rolling it on. Google $50 paint job and you'll get tons of info, mostly from a Mopar forum. I had planned on doing a write-up, but most of the info is on that Mopar site anyway and alot of it is trial and error until you get the feel of how to do it.

Black Lights Usually Entertain Stoners JOINT

Thanks. Its actually orange (a mix of Safety Red and Safety Yellow) and there's no clear on it. I thinned the paint with mineral spirits at about a 1:1 ratio and applied it in several coats with a 4" foam roller, wet sanding between every two coats with 800 grit. I finished it off with a mix of rubbing compound and polishing compound on a rotary buffer with a wool bonnet, then a foam pad. I screwed up a few times so it took quite a while but once you get the technique down it's not too hard. It came out looking pretty good and has held up better than the blue $400 spray job so far.

Yeah, but without the rainbow window sticker! The darker blue kinda looks like my old paint job. Here's a pic to give you an idea of what it might look like on yours: It was a cheapo paint job, about $400 with me doing all the prep, and it held up for maybe 18 months in the Florida sun. Definately invest in some good quality paint if you're going to do it yourself. Or just go and get some Rustoleum. That's what I did and its held up nicely since I rolled it out in January:

Iron Locust. I would think he speaks Russian, he lives in St. Petersburg. Click here for his profile and send him a PM.

Berlin's Eyeballing Early Re-run Shows? EARLY

That's why I carry a stock filter in the truck. I can screw the adapter off and slap the stocker on the block if something happens to the lines.