- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
-
Posts
18,399 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
221
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by adamzan
-
$500 cash if you change my water pump/timing belt on my 90 pathy!
adamzan replied to NaturaTek's topic in General Forums
Umm No? Pezzy is like 5 hours away from me! My offer still stands! -
Yeah aftermarket parts suck. Stealer is the only place I go to now.
-
$500 cash if you change my water pump/timing belt on my 90 pathy!
adamzan replied to NaturaTek's topic in General Forums
None of mine were leaking If you wanna come up here, I'd sure as hell do it. Frig if you paid for my gas to drive there i'd do it for free! ( I just want to get out of here!) -
Is this Pathy on Craigslist for 800$ worth it?
adamzan replied to NaturaTek's topic in General Forums
Strange I know a few people around here with wd21's some of them tow real heavy and oversized loads, and they're autotragics have been fine. I asked and some said, I just have the stock cooler. Meanwhile mine has an intermittent reverse issue and it's never towed I think if you just change the fluid like what the manual says, and you just drive normally, the trans will be fine. My 93 has 215k miles on it, original trans, stock cooler. Just changed the fluid ever 60,000 kms. It shifts smoother, faster, and reverse is fine. My 95 on the other hand had brown fluid when I got it, so I had it flushed and will probably have to do it again and have the filter changed to see if it fixes it. -
Well I guess any smoke is bad. anyways good luck man! I'm sure you'll find the prob, hope its something simple.
-
Isn't that blue smoke
-
And to add to that, Ive seen the wd21 lego rims on an r50
-
For the coolant, check this bypass hose, it is hard to get to though. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=coolant About the weird running, whats you're exhaust like? Mine did that, stalled when put in gear, barely idled, black smoke, turned out the 2 cat's were clogged, that also fixed my trans always shifting high. (truck had NO power)
-
I'm checking those out right now, would also allow the starter to not get covered in oil when a careless person changes the oil. I've not spilled in the last 2.
-
Uh oh, I changed it 3 weeks ago and didn't write down how many km's I had We have the exact same engine I believe, as I have a 93 and a 95 and they're both VG30E The only reason I use it is because I procrastinate so I change it every 5-10k and I don't get that annoying valve tap on startup in the winter anymore
-
What?!?!? It costs me 44.95 before taxes for a 4.4l jug of mobil 1 5w50 and I just use a regular napa filter or even a fram filter (usually the tough guard one) It's cheaper for me to drive down over the border to the us and pickup the oil, its 28.95 at advance auto parts, rather than 45 at canadian tire. I change it every 10k km's or 7k kms, depends on what time of year, and where I've been driving.
-
Though I'd bring this back since I'm gonna have to do something about the rust as well. Maybe we should rename it the official rust fixes thread. I'll post some pic's of my rust and what I've got done tomorrow. I've just started lol.
-
It's most likely an XE, which means originally you would have had 235 75 r15's (i have these) or possibly 215 something r15's.
-
Just to make sure I read this right, they broke off the crossmember? Pics would help a great deal!
-
Hell thats a tiny rust spot. Yeah cover the lines, cut out rust, put in new peice of metal (you could rivet one in) or fiberglass, yadda yadda yadda.
-
I don't know about number 2 but I believe your first issue is due to the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. And about the locks, might be the actuator, I've read that on hear before.
-
It might just be the manifold leak....
-
You should be able to, I don't know much about swapping motors but you might have to swap the flywheel I think (jj big shoe got it)??? Other than that I think they're pretty much the same. Are you planning on swapping trannys as well? If you do go ahead with it, it might be a good time to change the timing belt, water pump, and fix any leaks on the good motor, while you have it out I'm sure one of the veterans will chime in soon. LOL
-
Make sure you clean ALL the coolant off where the belt is. Good luck
-
Got that Idea from me didn't you, because I posted my vid on your wall haha. Maybe not so lucky, mine has that leak too and even though we put new gaskets in it still leaks, because the flanges were done. The shop said they could put 20 gaskets in there and it still wouldn't seal right. So they're getting me the new pipes.
-
Go new all the way, don't get used or reman crap.
-
That fine piece of machinery should be good for 300k more miles!
-
Here if you spin your tires it's considered racing OPP
-
CL can also be craigslist...
-
Might not be your truck, I don't see any npora stickers on the rear windows, or did you remove them?
