adamzan

You let dogs in your truck I will never let an animal inside mine, ever. It's looking REAL good mike. Hopefully I'll be down there sometime in the near future and can check it out!

Well I managed to do it, although I was sore after

I was told the best way is to, unless you're not strong enough (no offense), do it with the truck on the ground, so you don't have to do it again after it settles and you don't like the height.

Yup and the adjusters are on the crossmember in the middle of the truck if your looking at it from the side standing up. IIRC you need two 19mm wrenches.

Your torsion bars have sagged, though I think most wd21's were higher in the back anyway. You can adjust them. There is a thread in the garage.

nice we have a new max

Actually I think the new ones are still C channels.

Ok Ticker, just an FYI. I went today to see how much it would cost to have my rear sway bar link mount welded back onto my frame. They did an inspection of the entire frame, and found no other holes, serious rust, or corrosion. The guy said it would be about half a day's work, at 70 an hour for 280, plus materials and two new stabilizer links, it would be around 330~ ish to get it fixed. Your rust isn't that bad yet. You can definitely find a better place man. I'm sure as hell taking mine in. I do not want to loose the rear end on the highway.

I unplugged mine today and it runs a hell of a lot better but I didn't get a CEL

That looks awesome man

Well for the belt you could probably use a longer belt for the a/c and attach it to the s/c as well....

mine is at 750 more like 850 when the a/c is on though.

Do you still have reflective white? I don't see that option.

Well if your frame looks like this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13522&hl= I don't think there are much options. Poor truck

Are the service managers for all dealerships named mike? The one here is too

I'm having a similar issue, where did you find the plug?

I don't think you get what I mean. This is what they were gonna do. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Oh ya the dudes that quoted me a grand, were implying that they were going to actually rebuild the rear frame. As in cut out the old one reuse the cross members but put in new steel rails

You loosen the bolt on the power steering pump, it is behind the pulley, thats why there is a hole in the pulley, you have to line it up. Then there is an assembly on the ps pump to tighten and loosen the belt.

Woah that's intense. Why was he doing that? There was this guy who harassed, abused, beat up, stole from, and god knows what else to my mom. Those months were friggin hell for us. He went to jail, after me and my brother ran to the neighbors and they called the police. After he got out, relatives of his promised us to let us know if he ever came near again. He used to call and leave those kinds of messages as well.... I was like 8 at the time this happened.

I don't know if it has to be torqued, but like mr. p said you have to loosen the nut that holds it on to adjust it anyways. All I did was tighten it down nice and snug with a 3/8 drive ratchet with the appropriate socket. Yeah you have to remove the power steering belt IIRC to replace the a/c one. You might was well change all 3 while your in there. I've never heard of the pulley jamming...But I bet if it was left worn on there long it enough it could seize.

Says the guy who posted pics of himself in woman's underwear nuff said.

The pulley just comes off after you remove the bolt, make sure the little sleeves or w/e they were go back in the same order on the new one. There is no spring it is adjusted by the bolt right behind and above the pulley.

Wow. I couldn't even find one place to touch mine. I found a member locally that was going to help me, but he went to afghanistan.... (army)

a 95 with 10k on it? Must of been an accident victim