adamzan

I don't have flares either, DENNIS

And the steering damper is a whole other debate as well. Some like it, some hate it, mainly because it will mask steering problems until they become REAL bad. I like the damper but when one of my tie rods started to get some play I never noticed till another member here and I were checking out his front end and checked mine for the hell of it. Holy crap that @!*% was loose! It is a matter of personal preference really. I would check your UCA bushings, tension rod bushings, and all other parts before installing one. I replaced those things and now I don't even feel the need for it. (truck doesn't follow the rutted highways and such)

Pretty much any of the "options" can be installed on any truck you buy. I would concentrate on the one that is in the best mechanical/physical shape if it were me. XE's typically had chrome rims 235/75/15 tires and from there it depended on what the original owner wanted (tire carrier, flares, power group, etc...) SE's typically came with the lego rims (31x10.5 tires), a sunroof, better seats, rear disc brakes, lsd differential (could come with XE,LE too), tire carrier and flares. LE's typically don't have a tire carrier, or flares, but they have nice alloy rims with 235/75/15 tires, leather seats and automatic climate control. I say typically because there is so much gray area and I've seen LE's with cloth and XE's with leather and sunroofs. Also have see some SE's on steelies without a tire carrier or flares. This is just my personal observation.

I just ordered an ARB, yeah they are expensive but I think they are the most hassle free option. There is also KMA but I have heard they take double the time they quote you to get the bumper done (made on demand) and apparently the quality has gone down. Making your own is another option, there are lots of designs to choose from.

Typically that means your alternator is crapping out. You must have a 5 speed truck, as when you get that on an auto you will get the brake, batt, and AT temp lights all at once. I would check your belt tension and battery connections first. I know for me when I used to splash through a huge puddle I'd get that.

It can be adjusted you need to get special bolts or something.

Watch after 1 or 2 winters they will be rusted to @!*% and break off like mine did. I only have 3 bolts holding mine now. I just used some self tapping bolts.

Watch after 1 or 2 winters they will be rusted to @!*% and break off like mine did. I only have 3 bolts holding mine now. I just used some course thread self tapping bolts.

Mine rattles too. One of my little rubber stops is broken. Also check the catch on the body for looseness mine was loose and causing a lot of rattle. I just took it out and put a tack weld on it to stop it.

Attach the balljoint to the control arm before tightening it fully that's how I did it on the r50 I replaced lbjs on.

You can put 31x10.5 on those wheels. I ran BFG at's on the same wheels for a long time and had no issues.

15x6

31x10.5 Watchout for the search nazis

They are supposed to be a little higher in the rear than the front. For handling reasons I think.

That and the cupholder/@!*% bin/arm rest thing.

You need to get a console out of a 94-95 5 speed pathy. As for wiring read beastpaths write up. It's here somewhere.

The only hate I'll give is that it's 2wd.

I believe this is what you are looking for: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1211971&parttype=2380 We have the H233b axle.

Sorry to thread jack. So I had an open diff pathy but I swapped an LSD 3rd into it. Will the disc axle shafts I might get fit? Or do I have to grind them. I am still on drums and still on the fence about converting.

And for your DRL check the module it is to the left of the battery kinda inside the fender, you'll see what I mean. Take it apart, chances are you will find a bunch of broken solder joints if you look carefully. If you don't want to or have the means to solder it together you can get new ones at the dealer. Not sure on price though.

To change the sensor you need to remove the drive shaft, the drive shaft flange and then the sensor. May as well change the pinion seal while your in there too.

I like the fork type if I am not going to be reusing the balljoint as it is a way to relieve stress at the same time hahaha.

By that do you meant they are thinner and more prone to warping? That's the impression I am under. I would much rather everything new than resurfaced. I resurfaced my brake rotors on my first wd21 brake job and they warped in 2 months time. Though I am hard on the brakes. Also on our rodeo they replaced the clutch and "resurfaced the flywheel" but the clutch never felt right (chattered when engaged) and then they replaced it and it was fine.

I'm pretty sure what your uncle is talking about is the Universal joints.

You don't have to remove the cv. Just undo the snap ring and slide back a little, enough so you can get the ball joint out. Other than that it is pretty straight forward.