adamzan

Yeah when mine was run they drilled a hole in that rubber thing the wire harness runs through (you can see it bottom left in the pic) and then sealed it with some silicone. And yeah that thing is for all the water condensating on the evaporator to drain out. You know like when your using a paintball gun or a can of air duster and it gets water forming on the outside well it needs somewhere to go!

Ok good I thought I was the only one who did this

It sounds like they are not clamping tight enough. Try putting a vice grip on them to hold them tighter and see what happens if so you either need a new terminal or you can put a screw in to space it out (I would only do this if money is real tight).

Will it stay running or does it just sputter then die? If it stays running its more than likely your battery.

Hold the fluid on for longer. Thats how it works on my 95 and my fathers '00.

Maybe change the fuel and air filters while you're at it.

Are your battery terminals in good shape? Had that happen on a neon once.

I think he wants an oem nissan looking key not just some hardware store pos.

I would check the o2 sensor, you can unplug it and see if it runs better, does it miss all the time or only when its warmed up? Also I would just go ahead and replace all the vacuum lines as it is cheap and easy to do. There is a diagram in the FSM of where each goes.

Hinge pins and bushings.

But if his is a 5 speed it wouldn't have the AT temp light right? What I would do is boost it and see what voltage you're getting with a multimeter.

Yeah I guess not lol. I don't have any hardware that old anymore!

To be honest I'd be surprised if you would ever have to change the shoes unless you've got extremely high mileage. The r50 drums last a LONG time. I was talking with a nissan mechanic a while ago and he said he's only replaced 1 set in 14 years and that was because a spring let go and destroyed the drum. My father has an r50 with 285,000kms and the shoes still have at least 50% left in them.

Lol I could because I'm the same thing but I never leave anything of value in my truck. But that is getting off topic.

No problem. I'm no pro just a skeptical guy who doesn't trust shops so I have to do it myself. Plus its cheaper.

I had part of my truck repaired at a body shop a few years ago because someone had hit it at one point in time and though it was "repaired" it had started rusting at post at the drivers footwell. So much so that the door moving flexed that whole corner. I watched the guy do it and he did exactly what we did and he's been doing it for like 40 years so I guess it must be the most efficient way.

Have you tried adjusting the star wheel on the drums themselves. I know that made a noticeable difference in how my parking brake worked.

Yeah it holds up to the heat great, its actually what you're supposed to use when sealing floors (well thats what the body shop place told me). We did stitch it all the way around and close together, you're not supposed to run a bead on sheet metal because it will warp. You have to stagger the welds when doing it.

Nismojunky did my floors but he showed me how to weld sheet metal in the process and once you get the hang of it, its not that hard. The welder we used was an 80 amp fluxcore crappy tire job that I picked up on sale a few years ago. Works good enough for what I need to do. Also don't use silicone or caulking on the floor go to an auto body supply place and get some seam sealer it cures hard but actually adheres to the floor not like the other stuff that peels off really easy. I am by no means an expert this is just my experience so far. Here is the floor job: I cut out ALL the rust at least an inch around it. I also seam sealed it from underneath. Don't get that stuff in your hair, it sucks.

To tell if its the pins, open the door and try to lift it up and down. If it moves at all, the pins/bushings are worn out.

Did you get the antenna adapter cable? Mine grounds through that to turn the deck on. For the amps you should be able to use the amp turn on wire from the deck and there should be a wire in the adapter harness for it to signal the amps to turn on.

Sounds like the motor is worn out. The same thing happened to me. You can take it apart and clean it and it will work for another little while but eventually will have to be replaced. Just do it before it fails in the middle of the winter like it did for me

I got the poly ones from a member on here and they were very easy to install. Getting the old ones out sucked but the new ones with some grease and a vice slid right in . It made the truck feel tight again.

Crawl under your truck and take a look? It will be pretty obvious. I used a screwdriver and a hammer to remove the inner ones. It's easy.

I just did the transmission side joint on my 95, and wow did it ever make a difference, the truck feels a lot smoother now. When I pulled the shaft I checked both and the one at the rear end felt fine (no play and no binding) but the one at the tranny was a bit stiff on one axis. I just used 2 sockets and some blocks of wood with a hammer in my driveway and had it done in an hour. No dry cups for me which is good. I don't know if these joints were original or not because they had a screw plug where a grease fitting would go but I didn't see that in any of B's pics. But they may well be original since grimgreg says they have a plug. 350,000kms or 216k miles out of the oem parts, not too bad. I only hope the acdelco replacements I used last 1/4 of that! I'll post up my pictures when I get a chance.