adamzan

That's too bad I've had a pretty good experience with them.

Honestly I think it is just good practice to replace it, but if nothings wrong with it I don't see why you couldn't re use it. I would flush it out well though.

I would definitely check the u-joints if you haven't already. If you have a 2 piece driveshaft also check the center bearing or whatever it's called.

I have one of those covers for my pathfinder. I used it all the time on my old one because the heat never got hot enough for me.

If you replace all the bushings with polyurethane ones it will be less comfy. This is because the hardness transfers more of the road feel to the chassis instead of absorbing it. The plus side is better handling.

Or he never ran out of fuel he was just low when the wires let go? I believe simon had this happen to him as did tungsten

Tell them it was a stock size option. Lie and tell them you have an SE.

That seems kinda normal. When was out that way with my pathy, the temp gauge would go pretty much to 3/4 climbing grades with the AC on. It never once boiled over and I had good coolant. I wouldn't say it was "loaded down" but I did have a lot of stuff as I was driving cross country, through the desert, in the summer.

Some might use different lug nuts. Like the tapered vs top hat style.

The stock temp is 170F, with an alternate thermostat available for 180F. I would change the t-stat if you haven't done it (good maintenance). Other than that I think your gauge is probably normal, a lot of people say they read low like that. Do you have good heat? If so I wouldn't worry.

They are cheap on rock auto

FWIW I got an o-ring kit (a pack with the right rings for every fitting) for about 10 dollars at a parts store. I changed all mine and no more leaks. If you have the system open you "should" replace the drier, I did, but only because it was really old.

I find my duratracs quite loud but I probably have more miles on mine. They wear a lot faster due to the softer compound.

You can take out the cd player and just have the tape deck if you want. There is a pocket for the non cd player models.

I would just go with the oem rubber ones if you don't plan on offroading it a lot. I found the polyurethane ones made you "feel the road" a lot more if you know what I mean. Handling improvements were negligible anyway. FWIW I had upgraded the strut rod, rear link, sway bar, and front UCA bushings.

What really sucks is the stock tsnk is 21 gallons not 15.

That is a pretty bad attitude to have. What happens when one of your worn tie rods lets go on the highway and you kill someone.

The r50 is actually heavier

I would swap the tires around like ^ says. I was always told if you can "drive out of it" that it is a balancing issue with the tires.

That's just race car camber yo.

Yup it us very possible to do the alignment yourself. It took me forever the first time. It takes a few tries to get the camber where you want after setting the toe. Since the toe changes the camber if you have to move it much. Make sure you do it on level ground.

When they are in the engine you shouldn't be able to move them IIRC.

Just an FYI the duratracs wear out a lot faster since they are basically a mud tire tread with winter tire rubber hardness.

I'd say fix it, because you won't find a good running car these days for 800 dollars. I would also throw in a new water pump if you haven't already.

If it was the heater core it'd be coolant, not just water. Unless the OP is running straight water in his cooling system.