Indigent

Did you run the other mode checks? I would run mode II which is the mixture ratio feedback monitor test. It will tell you for sure if you are running either rich or lean.

The light bulb for the manual type control is PN 27525-01F00 FAST lists it as Spring-Control Bulb. Odd name. Courtesyparts has it for around $2.50. The auto type control looks like it has 2 bulbs. 27625-55S60 Bulb-Assembly Control and 27545-53E00 Lamp Assembly-Heater Control. I don't have auto controls, so I don't know anything about them. Hope this helps.

Brake grab maybe? With the changing temps, the pistons in your front calipers could be operating slightly different than when warmer.

Maybe post up a pic or two. I am having a hard time visualizing what you are talking about.

Just to clarify, the box is for ABS, the loose connector is for heated seats. BTW, on some earlier models with ABS, the control box was in under the stereo.

I was going to be a smartass and say 1/4 inch, but I see you got your answer.

When your engine is cold, the ECU tells the injectors to dump a bit of extra fuel to help warm up the engine. If you aren't really noticing terrible fuel mileage, then it could be the sending unit that drives the temp gauge. Get a cheap BBQ thermometer and stick it in the fins of the radiator near the upper hose to get an idea of the actual temp. At about 185degF, the needle should be almost half way up.

Pretty crazy odds of me catching this post when I did. I usually only look through the newest topics once and move on to a new section. I caught this right in time. I always have the pdf fsm with me. I never know when I will need it.

13-16 ft lbs

There is a JDM importer up here in the northwest that sells low mileage transmissions for ~$650 last time I checked. If you are going to go with a used one, it might as well be a gently used on from Japan. Those folks don't beat up there cars as much as we do, and the speed limits are lower so less wear on the transmissions!

Also, if you look in the FSM, EF&EC Diagnostic Procedure 21 "Backfire through exhaust", the ONLY cause listed is the coolant temp sensor. There are three items that often get confused in relation to engine temperature: 1. The mechanical thermostat that physically opens and closes based on coolant temperature. This has no electrical connection whatsoever. 2. The coolant temperature sensor, which is typically the one with the yellow connector and has 2 wires. Its resistance is proportional to temperature, which affects the voltage sensed at the ECU, as Terrano1992 pointed out. 3. The one wire sensor that drives the temperature needle in the dash cluster. All three are completely independent of each other. So if your dash needle is working, that doesn't necessarily mean your ECU is getting the right temperature reading. It is possible for the coolant temp sensor to be just fine, but the wiring may be corroded. Pull the plug off of it and clean it up, as it doesn't seal very well from the elements.

X2 on what Terrano1992 said. Backfire is almost always caused when your thermostat is not functioning properly.

There were a few green colors available at the time for all Nissans. #DH6: Green Metallic #DJ2: Dark Green #FL1: Green (from jul1992 to jul1993) and it changed to Greenish Blue (from jul1993 and on) #5J6: #DH6 green metallic and #656 Gold metallic Two tone combination. according to FAST.

i dont know if missing those would make your brakes softer, but you really should have some lock washers on there. no need to buy those exact ones from nissan, just go to the hardware store and get them. you dont want those bolts backing out at all.

Are you using a propane torch or a MAPP gas torch? I had a hell of a time with my wife's 95, and I know there was a post about it a long time ago. I ended up pounding on that damned thing for days with no luck, broke 2 pitman arm pullers and finally bought a mapp gas torch. After a few minutes of mapp gas, it came off after no kidding 3 hits.

That sounds like an alternator problem to me. Try spraying WD-40 or some other water repellant into the alternator and see if it helps. Your alternator may be on its way out, though.

I'm glad you found out what was wrong! I hate those kinds of problems that just refuse to be found. Good multimeters definitely help though.

use LEDs and resistors. they can be found free or bought cheap.

I did what you asked and searched in that post and found this. Is there any other place you can point to for a 93 and earlier FSM?

When all other online searches fail, check autozone.com or one of the other main parts store chains webistes. Autozone has diagrams for pretty much everything from 77 on up. hope you find what you are looking for.

I had an idea the today, but still need to poke through the TCU code to verify. I think the "kickdown switch" listed in the prints is what activates the Power mode. If that is the only thing it does then it may be possible to interrupt that signal to the TCU, so it would never know that the pedal has been depressed so hard. I am hoping that the "kickdown switch" signal isn't used for some other routines in the code, that way a simple on off switch could be added in series with the kickdown switch to stop that signal from getting to the TCU. I will let you know what I find.

Smack it with a hammer. (not kidding). If it starts, then the brushes in the starter are worn out. If they wore out so fast, it is probably due to a rough commutator, which can be common in rebuilt starters.

It could also be that notorious rear hatch switch or one of the door switches. I recently had that problem in my 1990. I spent almost an entire saturday pulling panels and tracing wires back from the fuse you are talking about. It is the Red/green wire, which is the color used for anything that stays on even when the key is off (dome lights, radio memory, dash clock etc). I noticed that there was only about 2 ohms from the Red/green to ground, which is not so good and explained the blowing fuses, and when I had my door open it was about 16. So I decided to start inspecting all of the door switches. Once I got to the rear hatch, I noticed that when I played with it, the resistance from Red/green to ground would go open (what it should be). I performed the fix listed in other posts for the rear hatch switch, and have not blown a fuse since.

X2 on what Terrano1992 said. That sounds very much like the Idle air control valve. It's connector is the only one in the stack next to the oil fill port that has 2 wires. On the side of the wire that goes toward the engine, check the resistance across the 2 wires (orange and black i think). It should read around 10 ohms. If it checks out good, I would pull the plenum and take off the valve and inspect for some kind of clog.

Just a quick update. I took the TCU out of my junk pathfinder and pulled the eprom out and disassembled the code. There is a specific routine that monitors the Throttle Position Switch, and once it reaches a certain amount, it activates the Power Mode routine. On the 90-93 WD21's (there are 2 additional wires on the 94-95 for the dimmer illumination) there are 4 wires going from the TCU to the switch. Two are for the light, and two are for the intentional power mode side of the switch. When the switch is in the Auto position it is essentially open, therefore there is no way to "easily" modify these trucks to have the Hold function of the JDM model. Could someone with an auto Terrano chime in on how many wires are on that switch? My suspiscion is that there is at least one extra wire in the switch to specifically activate a Hold Mode routine in the TCU.