Indigent

The main problem is that the ECU maps are still assuming stock cams. You will either need to buy the upgraded jwt ecu along with them or tune for them yourself. A favorite mod among the Japanese Terrano owners is to get the European spec cams and ECU. I seem to remember someone posting about the Euro cams on here about a year ago.

There would be little reason for you to think otherwise slick! This is the 90-95 section. Just in case people forgot where they clicked. lol

Torque converter? Really, it could be anything that turns, which is a lot of stuff. Too many to list.

IF the IACV is bad it probably wont run any different than right now if you unplug it. There is a gasket on it and none of the parts stores could get it when I changed mine. I just made one. Buy yourself some of that gasket material that every auto parts store has and carefully trace and cut using the old one as a template. Have you tested the IACV? You can pull the plug that is by the oil filler cap and test the continuity of the solenoid in the valve. IIRC it should read 10 ohms. That will tell you if it is good electrically, but not mechanically. It is the only plug in that cluster there that has two wires. I belive they are orange and black. There is the possibility that there is a chunk of crap in there too, so pull it apart and inspect it. From your symptoms it sounds like it is sort of working but maybe just sticking or in need of lubrication. hope this helps indigent.

There is a Japanese company called elford that makes a wide variety of aftermarket flares. I haven't had much luck finding them since I got back to the states though. They are all over auctions.yahoo.co.jp, but all of the listings state that they do not ship out of mainland Japan. check this link fender flare listings on yahoo japan I realize that wasn't very helpful, but try searching for elford. indigent.

lol at bitemedoughboy.com search. i know for a fact that there are more than a few writeups on here. indigent.

www.4x4parts.com is the best place for these rigs. indigent

x2 on what my1path said. What is the physical condition of the starters you have pulled out? Are they covered i oil and crap? When the oil pressure sensor fails, it leaks all over the place. The sensor is like $12 bucks and can be done easily with your next oil change. It is a 27mm socket just like the crankshaft pulley bolt. indigent.

Sorry to bump this, but still seems interesting. I can't vote twice, so my 91XE/AT/open/4.6 and my 90XE/AT/LSD/4.6

^2nd that. I have seen countless pathies for sale at dealers that had the wires repaired at the connector. I think it comes from people trying to cut time when changing the air filter. It is tempting to not remove the connector when opening the air box. If I were you, I would cut open the insulation on that cable and take a peek. Make sure you have some electrical tape handy before you cut into it. You might get lucky and have enough left to repair it. If it ends up being too bad, you could always go to the junkyard with a pair of diagonal cutters and take that section from one. It is only three wires IIRC. Pretty easy to splice in. indigent.

That small hose by the #6 cyl is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. That could screw up your mileage if your fuel pressures are off. The ECU relies on certain constants, and that is one of them. It times the injector pulses in miliseconds based on a specific fuel pressure. You very well could be dumping way more fuel than you need into the engine. I would recommend replacing ALL vacuum lines. The hose is pretty cheap and it can be done without taking anything apart. Just remember to do it one at a time so you don't put one in the wrong place . hope this helps, indigent.

The 30I's aren't technically in it. The only reason I can do what I am doing to bitemedoughboy's is the fact that he has put the mpfi setup into his, basically turning it into a vg30e. I haven't gotten to the point where I can actually do a base tune on these myself. I just don't know enough yet. Once I get all of the hardware I bought myself for Christmas, I will begin to play with mine and actually do some tunes. I am even toying around with some ideas on building my own dyno. bitemedoughboy tossed some good ideas my way and I want to try them out. For now though, the extent of the "tuning" I can do is stick maps from different vg30 equipped cars into the pathy ROM. Once I figure the rest out, I will tell all. indigent.

CEL is check engine light. Did you ever check the resistance between the two contacts of the regulator? I am all about hitting things to try to get them to work. Just dont hit the plastic part too hard lol. indigent.

One thing that really bothers me about the ECU in these things is that not all sensors and electronics are part of the CEL routine. The idle air control valve and regulator are among those. Two pretty important parts, but not monitored for failure at all. BTW that is a good point; did you run through ECU diagnostics? indigent.

I was actually able to install a 28pin eeprom socket onto this 85 ecu. I had to rewire some jumpers and basically trick the hd6802 processor into thinking that's ok, but it should work. I am going to dump the pathy maps into the 300zx bin file i have from a different 85. One problem though. I did some inspecting on this ecu you gave me, and there is a blown 10k resistor on the main board. It is part of a voltage regulator circuit for one of the injector amplifier circuits. I don't know if it is bad because I can't test this thing. I know you said you have another 85 ecu around, so we may have to swap the daughterboard I modified into the ecu with a good main board if this one is bad. Not a real big deal, but a small snag. Hopefully this main board is good and wont cause any issues. Also there are some leaking capacitors on the board. I am sifting through my crap to try and find a suitable replacement. I cannot wait to get this thing into your rig dude! I will be calling you tomorrow afternoon. The tuning software I am playing with is the freely available live edit. You can either search for it, or I will give it to you when I bring you your ecu. The software is pretty rough, but it works with a pocket romulator. The main problem with using all of the Nissan tuning community software is that the pathy is 100% absent from it. I had to create my own address files from scratch. I will be making those available as well. Merry Christmas All. indigent.

You don't have to remove the whole regulator to check it out electrically. I would at least check the resistance first, then if that checks out OK, take it apart. indigent.

You will definitely need a multimeter. Hopefully the attached pic will help you. It is on the driver's side of the plenum. It almost looks like a little cone sticking up with a wire harness attached to the top of it. Check www.phatg20.net for a copy of the FSM. It is very handy to have around. Remember, this could very well not be what's wrong. I would start with the multimeter and check the regulator out electrically. hope this helps. indigent.

From the FSM EF & EC-14: "The IACV-air regulator provides an air by-pass when the engine is cold for a fast idle during warm up." I had that problem a while back. It is pretty easy to check. Take the cable off and check the resistance across the two contacts of the regulator. It should be between 70-80 ohms. Even if it checks out OK, it could still be clogged. It is held in with two 10mm bolts that are fairly easy to get to (no plenum removal required), and then one of those stupid Nissan hose clamps that can be a moderate pain. There is an O-ring that seals it to the plenum that can wear out (don't remember the diameter). All said, it should take you no more than about 30 minutes to pull the regulator and test it out. I am always about testing the cheapest things first, and as this will not *cost* anything to check, it can't hurt. Hope this helps, indigent.

Assuming you are in the states, and you already know about junkyards, I would refer you to www.rockauto.com They are not used parts, but they are probably the best price anywhere. Or watch craigslist and get yourself a parts rig. Its like having your own personal junkyard lol indigent.

That is one major reason I would like to poke around in the CA ecu. I would probably be able to tell almost right away. That would be a big benefit to you as well MY1PATH. If it is just the fuel and timing maps, you would definitely feel some power gains. I would imagine that a greater percentage of the fuel map is set to stoich. That means that those portions of the map are where the O2 and MAF actively monitor and adjust the fuel ratio to 14.7. I have a BIN from a federal 88 ECU. It would be easy to compare the BIN I have to what's in your ECU. I am working on the walkthrough and explanation of what I have done so far, so keep an eye out for it. indigent.

I suppose I will not get it. Too much work for something I don't need anyway. He isn't actively trying to sell it. It was just an idea. Thanks for the replies. indigent.

So would it be as easy as changing the transfer case? It seems that the output of the transmission is intact, because 4wd works. I'm with you though, never really studied it. indigent.

A buddy of mine has a 95 SE with manual tranny that he isn't driving anymore. He might consider selling it to me. The problem is that it doesn't move in 2HI. When he puts it in 4wd, the front wheels work just fine, but nothing from the rear. My question is, what could cause this? I tried searching, but nothing relevant came up. Anyone experienced this? I have never owned one with a MT and don't really know much about it. My initial thoughts are transfer case, or rear diff (it is an open diff), but wouldn't you hear some grinding or something? I want to know if it is worth my time to get it. I already have my pathy and a junker, so I dont really need another one, but if it is something that is somewhat easy to fix I will get it. any thoughts? indigent.

Sorry about this weekend. My sister got stuck in some snow up on snoqualmie pass on saturday. I had to go get her out. @MY1PATH Completely understandable. If you ever do find another CA ECU and would me to take a look, just let me know. I guess it's up to me and Bitemydoughboy now. Hopefully this weekend? Trust me guys and gals, I will not let this die. It is too much fun. @bitemedoughboy Let me know your work schedule. We could do it any evening (today if you want ). I usually head home around 4-5pm. Do you have any blank eeproms? I don't have a UV eraser. All I have are a few sst27sf512 eeproms. It will be trivial to put the pathy curves into yours. I have poked around the 300zx rom a bunch during my research and already know where to put what. Do you have the 300zx stock injectors and MAF? indigent.

There is a gusset on the side of the engine opposite of the starter. It is the only access point to get to the Torque Converter bolts. A bit of a PITA to reach, but not impossible. indigent.