Indigent

lol at bitemedoughboy.com search. i know for a fact that there are more than a few writeups on here. indigent.

www.4x4parts.com is the best place for these rigs. indigent

x2 on what my1path said. What is the physical condition of the starters you have pulled out? Are they covered i oil and crap? When the oil pressure sensor fails, it leaks all over the place. The sensor is like $12 bucks and can be done easily with your next oil change. It is a 27mm socket just like the crankshaft pulley bolt. indigent.

Sorry to bump this, but still seems interesting. I can't vote twice, so my 91XE/AT/open/4.6 and my 90XE/AT/LSD/4.6

^2nd that. I have seen countless pathies for sale at dealers that had the wires repaired at the connector. I think it comes from people trying to cut time when changing the air filter. It is tempting to not remove the connector when opening the air box. If I were you, I would cut open the insulation on that cable and take a peek. Make sure you have some electrical tape handy before you cut into it. You might get lucky and have enough left to repair it. If it ends up being too bad, you could always go to the junkyard with a pair of diagonal cutters and take that section from one. It is only three wires IIRC. Pretty easy to splice in. indigent.

That small hose by the #6 cyl is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. That could screw up your mileage if your fuel pressures are off. The ECU relies on certain constants, and that is one of them. It times the injector pulses in miliseconds based on a specific fuel pressure. You very well could be dumping way more fuel than you need into the engine. I would recommend replacing ALL vacuum lines. The hose is pretty cheap and it can be done without taking anything apart. Just remember to do it one at a time so you don't put one in the wrong place . hope this helps, indigent.

The 30I's aren't technically in it. The only reason I can do what I am doing to bitemedoughboy's is the fact that he has put the mpfi setup into his, basically turning it into a vg30e. I haven't gotten to the point where I can actually do a base tune on these myself. I just don't know enough yet. Once I get all of the hardware I bought myself for Christmas, I will begin to play with mine and actually do some tunes. I am even toying around with some ideas on building my own dyno. bitemedoughboy tossed some good ideas my way and I want to try them out. For now though, the extent of the "tuning" I can do is stick maps from different vg30 equipped cars into the pathy ROM. Once I figure the rest out, I will tell all. indigent.

CEL is check engine light. Did you ever check the resistance between the two contacts of the regulator? I am all about hitting things to try to get them to work. Just dont hit the plastic part too hard lol. indigent.

One thing that really bothers me about the ECU in these things is that not all sensors and electronics are part of the CEL routine. The idle air control valve and regulator are among those. Two pretty important parts, but not monitored for failure at all. BTW that is a good point; did you run through ECU diagnostics? indigent.

I was actually able to install a 28pin eeprom socket onto this 85 ecu. I had to rewire some jumpers and basically trick the hd6802 processor into thinking that's ok, but it should work. I am going to dump the pathy maps into the 300zx bin file i have from a different 85. One problem though. I did some inspecting on this ecu you gave me, and there is a blown 10k resistor on the main board. It is part of a voltage regulator circuit for one of the injector amplifier circuits. I don't know if it is bad because I can't test this thing. I know you said you have another 85 ecu around, so we may have to swap the daughterboard I modified into the ecu with a good main board if this one is bad. Not a real big deal, but a small snag. Hopefully this main board is good and wont cause any issues. Also there are some leaking capacitors on the board. I am sifting through my crap to try and find a suitable replacement. I cannot wait to get this thing into your rig dude! I will be calling you tomorrow afternoon. The tuning software I am playing with is the freely available live edit. You can either search for it, or I will give it to you when I bring you your ecu. The software is pretty rough, but it works with a pocket romulator. The main problem with using all of the Nissan tuning community software is that the pathy is 100% absent from it. I had to create my own address files from scratch. I will be making those available as well. Merry Christmas All. indigent.

You don't have to remove the whole regulator to check it out electrically. I would at least check the resistance first, then if that checks out OK, take it apart. indigent.

You will definitely need a multimeter. Hopefully the attached pic will help you. It is on the driver's side of the plenum. It almost looks like a little cone sticking up with a wire harness attached to the top of it. Check www.phatg20.net for a copy of the FSM. It is very handy to have around. Remember, this could very well not be what's wrong. I would start with the multimeter and check the regulator out electrically. hope this helps. indigent.

From the FSM EF & EC-14: "The IACV-air regulator provides an air by-pass when the engine is cold for a fast idle during warm up." I had that problem a while back. It is pretty easy to check. Take the cable off and check the resistance across the two contacts of the regulator. It should be between 70-80 ohms. Even if it checks out OK, it could still be clogged. It is held in with two 10mm bolts that are fairly easy to get to (no plenum removal required), and then one of those stupid Nissan hose clamps that can be a moderate pain. There is an O-ring that seals it to the plenum that can wear out (don't remember the diameter). All said, it should take you no more than about 30 minutes to pull the regulator and test it out. I am always about testing the cheapest things first, and as this will not *cost* anything to check, it can't hurt. Hope this helps, indigent.

Assuming you are in the states, and you already know about junkyards, I would refer you to www.rockauto.com They are not used parts, but they are probably the best price anywhere. Or watch craigslist and get yourself a parts rig. Its like having your own personal junkyard lol indigent.

That is one major reason I would like to poke around in the CA ecu. I would probably be able to tell almost right away. That would be a big benefit to you as well MY1PATH. If it is just the fuel and timing maps, you would definitely feel some power gains. I would imagine that a greater percentage of the fuel map is set to stoich. That means that those portions of the map are where the O2 and MAF actively monitor and adjust the fuel ratio to 14.7. I have a BIN from a federal 88 ECU. It would be easy to compare the BIN I have to what's in your ECU. I am working on the walkthrough and explanation of what I have done so far, so keep an eye out for it. indigent.

I suppose I will not get it. Too much work for something I don't need anyway. He isn't actively trying to sell it. It was just an idea. Thanks for the replies. indigent.

So would it be as easy as changing the transfer case? It seems that the output of the transmission is intact, because 4wd works. I'm with you though, never really studied it. indigent.

A buddy of mine has a 95 SE with manual tranny that he isn't driving anymore. He might consider selling it to me. The problem is that it doesn't move in 2HI. When he puts it in 4wd, the front wheels work just fine, but nothing from the rear. My question is, what could cause this? I tried searching, but nothing relevant came up. Anyone experienced this? I have never owned one with a MT and don't really know much about it. My initial thoughts are transfer case, or rear diff (it is an open diff), but wouldn't you hear some grinding or something? I want to know if it is worth my time to get it. I already have my pathy and a junker, so I dont really need another one, but if it is something that is somewhat easy to fix I will get it. any thoughts? indigent.

Sorry about this weekend. My sister got stuck in some snow up on snoqualmie pass on saturday. I had to go get her out. @MY1PATH Completely understandable. If you ever do find another CA ECU and would me to take a look, just let me know. I guess it's up to me and Bitemydoughboy now. Hopefully this weekend? Trust me guys and gals, I will not let this die. It is too much fun. @bitemedoughboy Let me know your work schedule. We could do it any evening (today if you want ). I usually head home around 4-5pm. Do you have any blank eeproms? I don't have a UV eraser. All I have are a few sst27sf512 eeproms. It will be trivial to put the pathy curves into yours. I have poked around the 300zx rom a bunch during my research and already know where to put what. Do you have the 300zx stock injectors and MAF? indigent.

There is a gusset on the side of the engine opposite of the starter. It is the only access point to get to the Torque Converter bolts. A bit of a PITA to reach, but not impossible. indigent.

Idle Air Control Valve sticking? indigent.

dumb question, but what air source is it set on? inside, inside/outside, outside? I have found that mine defrosts best when i use the inside/outside setting. indigent.

Also, take a receipt or some other piece of paper and place it near the end of the exhaust pipe so that it would be able to cover the end of the pipe. Make sure you hold on to it really good. If the paper gets sucked back into the tailpipe, the engine is breathing its exhaust back in. That could indicate some valve issues or maybe timing belt problems. hope this helps, indigent.

Just a reminder, all of the tinkering I have done is with the VG30E. I know nothing about the maps and whatnot from the VG30I. All I have done is take the fuel and timing maps from the maxima with VG30E and the japanese pathy VG30E and put them into my US ecu. But obviously, the maps will be very different, because the fuel delivery system is so different. It is 100% possible to do the same thing to the TBI ecu's, but I don't have any personal experience with them. I would love to play with one just for @!*%s and grins. All of the tuning principles for nissans are the same. Once you learn one rig you can figure others. Bitemedoughboy and I will post up whatever we figure out this weekend. indigent.

I definitely want to at least poke around in one of the TBI ROM's. I will call up my buddy in Japan again and see if he can get me an image from one of those as well. Probably not though, because it is pretty rare to come across such an old rig in a junkyard over there. Hey packie88, just let me know. I really want to get some of these different images into a someone else's rig to see if they feel any chage as well. It may just be the placebo effect for all I know. I also want to get a rom image from a Cedric Gloria (JDM). It had a VG30E and had almost 180HP. Again, that will probably be hard to find though. anyone else in WA? indigent.