Indigent

what holes are you referring to?

Just for reference for this post and posterity and whatnot, the ECU only retards timing due to knock in the 400-800 RPM range at like 90-100% MAF load. So basically only when you are pushing the gas pedal down all the way while climing a steep hill, or during takeoff from a dead stop while towing a heavy load. If you want to know more I put a comment similar to this in a post a while back. You can turn on or off knock sensor monitoring at any point in the timing map, or just replace the knock map with the regular one. I wouldn't recommend it, as knock in those conditions will cause big problems. I have fully disassembled the ECU bin and have figured out a TON. I tried to get people interested in tuning this ECU a while ago, but didn't get much response. I have noticed I have been posting a bunch about it here lately, so if people are interested and need help, I could get off my ass and do somewhat of a writeup.

just revive my old thread in the wd21 section about ecu programming. I have done a ton of work on this. I disassembled the ROM code and figured out a bunch of stuff specific to the wd21.

I desoldered the ECU ROM and put a DIP socket in it's place. I then bought some EEPROMs and I burn the image to one and stick it in the socket. There are sooo many possibilites once you do this. Changing the REV limit is as easy as modifying a hex value and burning the chip. Let's not threadjack though.

I bumped mine to 7000, and some 300zx guys take it to 8000, but they do full bottom up builds... 7000 is nice, and I have had no problems, gives me just a hair more when I really get on it I am running a jdm glora motor, so it isn't all that old.

X2 on what kingman said. Nissan coolers suck, and I wouldn't trust even replacement ones. Put the tranny cooler out in front of the AC and Radiator.

Just for your reference, the RPM rev limit in the ECU is 6250 RPM. If you ever need to change it, I can help, but it is not for the faint of heart.

the 3.3 injectors are the same style as the 3.0

Lately I have been considering rebuilding the spare set of fuel injectors I have laying around. I have contacted 3 different injector shops and all of them say that the filter baskets on these side-feed injectors are not replaceable. In a way I refuse to believe that, but whatever. I am not content just replacing the o-rings on these injectors. I can see crud inside the screens. My next option to consider is swapping the whole fuel rail to a style that has a rebuild kit available. I have the ability to modify the injector pulsewidth in the ECU ROM, so theoretically, I can make any injector work. Fitment is the only issue. Is there anyone out there in pathfinder land that has looked into other-than-stock injectors? The 300zx crowd has a bunch more room to work with than we do.

Please tell me that you aren't taking your mileage measurements directly from the odometer now that you have bigger tires... You need to do the math to convert how many miles of difference you have between one mile driven on stock tires to your new size and factor that into your math.

If you are ever in the Yakima Area, let me know. I have 3 of them laying on the floor in the garage. You can have one if you take some other crap with you

The TD27 is a overhead valve engine, so no timing belt...

I have gone through this personally and the headache of obtaining the motor will kill you. All of the JDM motor importers will not touch the TD27 motor or any other diesel motor for that matter, unless it was an option on a vehicle in the states. If you really want to get one, the best option would be to get a whole front clip, but good luck finding anyone that will get one for you. There used to be tons of the TD27 motors floating around canada, but even the canadian JDM people are having problems getting ahold of them due to a new demand surge for them in the middle east. Technically speaking, any of the importers can get in trouble or shut down if they intentionally bring a motor not authorized by the US EPA into the country. Most of them will tell you to get bent. The motors that you see on Ebay are actually accidents. They were not specifically requested by the importer, but just shoved into the shipping container by the company in Japan. I am not saying that it is impossible, becuase it definitely is not. They will definitely take you to the cleaners on price too, as they all know how rare they are. I had a motor and trany lined up and it was going to be right at $2000 to my door, which is actually pretty awesome. I also had a place lined up to get me a WD21 front clip, for just a bit more than the $2000, which would have been supremely &^%*ing cool. The only problem for me was that my v6 motor died during the search, and I had to get the pathy running quickly as I drive it every day, so I went with the v6 that came the next day. To answer the other question, the auto trans that bolts to the TD27 is the RE4R01A, just like the V6, but the bellhousing is completely different. There is a Nissan PN for the bellhousing, but no US dealers can even see it in their systems. Also, the transmission control unit is different to accomodate the hold function on the AT switch in the dash, not to say that the US one wouldn't control a JDM trans (because it will). Also, the trans mount bracket is different, so that would have to be fabbed (which if you are going to swap to a diesel, you should know how to weld lol). It is a direct injected motor, so there is no need for electronic control. The only controller present for the TD27 is the timer for the glow plugs. That would probably not come with the motor unless specifically arranged with the importer, so that would have to be made as well. If after reading all of that and you are still curious, PM me and we can talk about it, and maybe I can point you in some directions you hadn't thought of.

Also, the ECU doesn't monitor the transmission's error codes. Does your AT/Power light flash when you turn the ignition on or does it stay on for a few seconds then turn off? If it flashes, then one of the parts that the TCU monitors is bad and you will need to run the TCU diagnostic check.

Did you electrically checkout the Power Transistor and Ignition Coil? With all of that melted wiring, I would imagine that the transistor and coil got messed up too. Also JFYI, the wire from the distributor goes directly to the "condenser" which is the capacitor. That is the reason that wire melted too. You might want to crack the case on your ecu, and see if anything in there got all melty. The three wires of concern at the ECU are 1,3,and 6. They go to the resistor and power transistor. Follow the traces from those three pins to wherever they end on the board and see if anything let out magic smoke. Also, you might go to the junkyard and pickup a transistor and an ignition coil. The power transistor is the grey thing behind the ignition coil on the plenum there.

The coolant temp sensor is not in the valley on the VG30E. It is on the manifold for the upper radiator hose. It is the one with the yellow connector. The only thing in the valley for the VG30E is the knock sensor. Did you ever finish troubleshooting the ECU not having any lights? You need to look through the FSM and run each diagnostic mode. When you turn the ignition on, it automatically goes into mode 1, which is essentially the O2 sensor check. The green light basically indicates when the O2 sensor is regulating fuel ratio. If you don't get any lights at all, it is very likely that your ECU is in limp mode. When in limp mode, the fuel injector timing pattern is changed from sequential injection to simultaneous. That might explain the excess fuel you observed when pulling the plugs, and the running like crap. Also, the speed of the engine is limited in limp mode to make it extremely obvious to the driver that something is not right. Only two things can put the ECU into that failsafe mode, one is an internal ECU problem such as a majorly failed component, and the Camshaft Position Sensor not working. Verify that your ECU works as advertised and go from there. Having the Resistor and Capacitor go as you did is very strange in itself. Resistors don't just blow up for no reason. The resistor and capacitor are part of the circuit for the ignition coil and are driven by the ECU. If there was that much damage to the resistor and capacitor, I would say that your ECU got toasted. You also need to checkout the Power Transistor. The resistor regulates the power transistor. The power transistor controls the ignition coil. When that resistor blew, It may have overloaded that power transistor as well. So the things you need to check right now are: 1. Verify ECU operation. 2. Verify the Power Transistor is still OK. 3. Verify wiring from ECU connector to Resistor, Power Transistor, and Ignition Coil.

For all concerned about various nissan diesels, the site Nissan diesesl is a pretty cool forum.

You live in WA, where the Heck did you get a Dizzel pathy? assuming you lived overseas? or are there are few running around here that have been imported? I love diesel, hell even love the smell, wonder if any of those jap engine importer outfits could get me a 2.7 I lived in Japan for 3 and a half years. Sadly, I could not bring my terrano back with me because of the diesel motor. If I had bought a V6 terrano it would have been no problem. Diesel FTW!

I have owned both, and both have their advantages. All things considered, I miss the TD27T the most. It got far better mileage per unit of fuel. It had a bunch more low end torque, and the torque curve is far more linear. As far as top speeds go, I have had my 1990 terrano with td27t up to 175kph. The diesel felt far more capable in offroad situations. My suggestion, is that if at all possible, try both and see which one you LIKE the best. Both have their merits.

That is almost exactly where the resistor and capacitor are for the ignition circuit. They are usually all wrapped up in tape and most people don't even know they are there.

It sounds like you have a pretty high current draw on that circuit, or the rheostat(dimmer dial) may be bad. What caused this in the first place?

It should be the same one as the one for the dome light.

I bought this drill from Tacoma Screw. It fits in from the top perfectly. You will need to pull of the wheel and snake your hands into the little gap between the frame and the inner fenderwell. I ended up being able to maneuver the drill to each stud. Then I used those spiral excractors and pulled each one out with ease. The only thing that sortof sucked was that the drill I mentioned is not reversible.

It is actually very simple to get it all back in time. You put the #1 cylinder at the top, then put the belt on the crank sprocket. Count 43 teeth from the punch mark on the crank to the punch mark on the driver's side camshaft sprocket. Once that is set, count 40 teeth from the punch mark on the driver's side camshaft sprocket to the punch mark on the passenger's side camshaft sprocket. That is as in-time as it will ever be. Note that the punch marks on the sprockets may not line up perfectly with the dimples on the timing cover, but you can rely 100% on the method I just described.

They changed the o2sensor at some point and I believe it was in 93 or 94. It will run the engine, but not very well. I would get one from the same year if possible.