Indigent

Also, with the diesel, you will no longer be street legal in any US state. It is a violation of federal law to convert a gasoline based vehicle to diesel. I used to own a Terrano when I lived in Japan, and was strictly forbidden from bringing it back with me to the states because it had the TD27T in it. You *can* find them for around $3000 currently from JDM importers, though. The transmission was different mainly the bellhousing. As with anything, of course it is *possible*, but it is all about how much sacrifice you are willing to put into it. There was a guy floating around in NY state a while ago that put an RB26DETT into his pathfinder. People have put Chevy smallblocks into these things. If I could internally justify the $3000, I would have already done the Diesel swap. I really miss that engine (48+MPG), but it is what it is. Check this link for more info on the stupid EPA laws about diesel: http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/po...e/engswitch.pdf Good luck with whatever you decide.

I am an idiot, I meant your Model number. It is found on the Plate in the engine bay on the passenger side. I am sorry for the confusion. PM that to me and I will give you the breakdown.

Look at your VIN number. It will start off with a W for Wagon, H for the VG30E engine, L for left hand drive, Y for 4WD, D21 which is pathfinder, then D for 4 door, since there were no 2 door 92's, then it will say P or J. J is for XE, while P is for SE. (this only applies for models made in august 89 and on.) The first 15 digits of your VIN tell all. If you want to post the first 15 up (not uniquely identifiable to you,) I will confirm what packages came with your rig.

A simple solution to the in-rush current draw is to add a capacitor. The ones that people install with their subwoofers would be good, but obviously one that huge isn't necessary. You can get 1Farad caps online for about $30.

Bitemebilldoughboy is running with 300zx heads and ecu on his pathfinder. He used to be VG30I. Hit him up.

The auto tranny from the WD21 is the same tranny that is in the auto SKYLINES. It is wierd just how many people think that this tranny can't handle stressful loads.

yes on 27mm

Get yourself one of those parts organizer drawer things or ziplock bags. Write down where stuff came from. It only takes a few minutes to catalog the stuff, and it will save you a ton of headache later on. X2 on what unccpathfinder said. Make damn sure you have a good torque wrench for when you put the heads back on. The head bolts are 10mm hex, so what I did was take a 10mm allen wrench and cut it off. You can then use a 10mm socket with a breaker and the allen wrench to remove and install the bolts. If you have the money, I would buy new head bolts. They are not built to be re-used. It might not be a problem, but it would suck to have on of those bolts snap shortly after you get it all back together. Definitely follow the directions for loosening the head bolts. It is an aluminum head and can warp easily if loosened improperly. The picture in the chilton's/FSM is a bit confusing for the driver's side head so really look at and understand it before proceeding. It isn't that bad, but it can be tedious. Good luck and take pictures of things that are complicated when disassembling.

As far as I know, it is just me and Bitemedoughboy. There are plenty of pathy's floating around, just no one on here.

Jam a screwdriver or scribe in there and pry it out. It will probably feel wrong, but it will work.

I just remember my piston being at tdc and when I put everything back together the timing mark was on the second one from the left. Also the chilton's manual says that the leftmost mark is -5atdc and the 2nd mark is 0.

I thought the first tick mark on the crank pulley was -5ATDC then the next was 0TDC then 5BTDC, 10BTDC and so on....

I have an XE with 4.3gears, LSD, and drums in the rear. Just thought I would throw that into the mix.

I would guess the Idle Air Control Valve because it happens at idle. It can get crap in it and mechanically stop moving, or the solenoid that controls it could be shot. Get a multimeter, disconnect the only wire harness by the oil cap that has two wires in it and read the resistance on the side that goes to the solenoid(the side pointing away from the battery). It should be right at about 10ohms. If there is no resistance, then either the solenoid or the wires to it are bad. If it reads good, then it is probably stuck. It is a pain to pull it because the whole plenum has to come off. There are probably a bunch of other things that could be wrong, but it only takes a few minutes to check the resistance of that solenoid.

If you are talking about what I think you are, there is no actual switch inside the car. There is the oil pressure sending unit (sometimes called a switch) that is located next to the oil filter. There is a single wire that goes to it and it should be part of the same cable that goes to the starter. The wire you are looking for to re-attach to the sending unit should have an orange/brown rubber cover on the end. It is basically a reed switch that makes contact when there is enough oil pressure. When the pressure of the oil is too low to operate the switch it turns on the light in your dash. Is your oil light on?

Did you do both wet and dry compression tests? If you only did it dry, you aren't getting all of the information you need. Typically, low compression is either the head gasket or piston rings. You have to do the wet part of the test to rule them out. But considering 1,3,5 are all close, I would guess head gasket.

X2 on what everyone said. It is pretty easy.

The sprocket is flat on the side that points away from the engine. The side that points TO the engine has a channel machined into it. So if you see the flat side staring at you, it is probably correct. You should take that sprocket off anyway to do the crank seal. There is absolutely no reason to skip doing your crank and cam seals while you are in there doing the belt. The seals are less than $5 each. That is a pretty cheap insurance policy.

There is no difference in the actual door from manual to auto windows. That would be a very large expense to the manufacturing process. The only difference is in the trim. The motor for the auto windows mounts in the exact same place that the hand crank box for the manual does. If anything you may need a new door panel (the pretty part that clicks and screws onto the door.

I went through 2 days of pounding, and 3 pitman arm pullers when I recently did one. Do yourself a favor and go get a MAP gas torch. Heat that arm up and smack it with a hammer. I did that, and it came off in about 30 seconds.

That is where you fill it. Get a funnel and pour away.

Putting a different MAF in will not help you with power. The MAF has a map in the ECU that is specific to it. Unless you get in and change the MAF map, all that will happen is confusion and waste of fuel in the ECU. There are 8 lines in the ECU bin file code that comprise the map. You could take the MAF from the 300zxTT and get the MAF map from it then put those lines in the Pathfinder ECU code. Short of that, changing the physical sensor will not do what you might think it would.

The best way to accomplish what beavis is saying is to open the glass to its maximum and basically put a small dent or bend in the cylinder towards the top. You could pinch it with some pliers. The result is that the rod in the cylinder will have a harder time travelling at the point where you bent it, putting more friction, thus being able to hole more weight. If you dent or bend it too much, you wont be able to open the glass all the way, so just a little bit will help a bunch. Great suggestion!

I know there are writeups on cleaning the throttle body, tps, maf, etc., but I haven't seen anyone talk about cleaning their O2 sensor. I cleaned one on a Pontiac Grand Am I had a few years ago. You basically just soak it in gas for an extended period of time and shake it around. The gas can break up the crap inside. Anyone heard of or tried this?

X2 on what mzxtreme said. If you have disonnected a brake line at the Master Cylinder or replaced it, you will need to bleed it. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to do it on page BR-9 of the 1994 one. Basically, you need 2 people. 1. Install the MC to the booster. (but not the lines to the MC) 2. Fill the MC reservoir with fluid. 3. Have person A plug all of the ports on the MC with their fingers. 4. Have person B SLOWLY depress the brake pedal repeatedly until no more air comes out. 5. Install the lines to the MC and bleed the rest of the system as usual. It can get a bit messy if you aren't careful, so I would recommend putting a towel under the MC and use rubber gloves. The gloves also help you make a good seal. I did this alone one time by taking a few big C clamps and some blocks of rubber. I clamped the rubber over the ports and just pressed the brake pedal like 20 times for good measure. It is easier with another person for sure.