5523Pathfinder

Well the timing belt bolts are probably not a big deal. They may have stripped when taking them out. they are a special bolt. As long as there is only a few missing, no big deal. If you want a raise a stink, you could. Ok, the vacuum port under the throttle is missing a hose that goes to your evap canister(you are almost pointing right at it in your last pic). You can put your finger on it and should feel vacuum. Not cool leaving it off. I may cause your check engine light to come on, poor fuel mileage, and your evap system isnt working(eviromentaly bad). Either go back and scream or get some vacuum line and reattach. The ground strap goes to your exhaust manifold. The bolt may have broke if all they did was the timing belt. No need to remove it.

Here is the description from alldata.... 1995 Nissan-Datsun Truck Pathfinder 4WD V6-2960cc 3.0L SOHC MFI (VG30E) Vehicle Level Heating and Air Conditioning Evaporator Core Service and Repair Service and Repair Notes Fig. 8 Exploded View Of A/C & Heater System Disconnect battery ground cable and discharge A/C system. Discharge only into the proper recycling equipment. Do not release refrigerant into the air. Remove passenger side instrument lower cover and glove compartment. Disconnect wiring harness connectors to evaporator. Separate cooling unit case halves and remove evaporator, Fig. 8 . Reverse procedure to install.

Hmmm, what to put on bumpers....... Well, for both front and rear......D-rings! One on each side I think would be great. The rear bumper could be made without a swing carrier, if, there was a way to make some kind of support for the factory carrier. Front and rear(well, more rear)......Hitch recievers!

Well, the best thing is to replaced the evaporator and expansion valve together. I imagine they want to replace the the drier as a preventative step. Changing over to R134A is a bit trickier than just putting it in. Most of the time they want you to replace the compressor and the o-rings to work with the new refridgerant. IMHO, R12 is much better than R134A. You may want to shop around on the price for refilling. The right thing to have done is to have A/C dye installed with the recharge. This will allow you to look for leaks by yourself using a U/V or blacklight if any should come up later. Yes, it is best to have the system evacuated as soon as possible to prevent any damage to the system. Keep your A/C and defroster off until you have it charged. There are some options out there for recharging your system. I would stick with R12 and have it professionally installed if you do not know what you are doing. Some have used aftermarket refill systems with decent luck. Just be careful!

Sounds like maybe a Daytime Running Lamp Control unit issue. It should be near your battery. I would unplug it and see if the light goes out. Maybe a fellow Canadian that has had some DTRL issues can ring in. I can find the wiring diagram if you wish to due some pin testing.

Well, IMHO, I dont think you have a clog. The A/C system is a closed system and even if there is a leak, there is really no way something large enough could get inside to plug it. Now, if the system was open, thats a different story. The only possible place for a "clog" would be at the expansion valve on the evaporator. The expansion valve may have issues. Now for the rest of the system, you can blow the lines out with some compressed air. When you reattach everything then put a vaccum on the system, any oxygen or water will be boiled under the vacuum and will be gone. A quick way to tell if the system is working right, is to just touch the lines. Once the system is properly filled, you should be able to touch the lines and find out if everything is working correctly. The refridgerant will be warm as it enters the expansion valve. The lines leaving the evaporator should be cool. The high pressure side from the compressor should be hot, but you should still be able to touch it. The coldest point of the system is after the expansion valve, but before the evaporator(its hard to touch being its inside of the evap box). If you have more questions, just ask! Hope this helps

Well first the good and easy news. The Knock sensor code can come on for a couple of different reasons. Your rig may need a tune up. Worn ignition components will casue tiny misfires and the engine will "ping". This can also be caused by certian brands of fuel, or improper timing. Easy things to check to fix the problem. Oh, I guess the Knock sensor could be bad, but not always the case as it will set a code, but not always illuminate the check engine light. Ok, now for some bad, but not terrible news. I saw in your profile that you have a 98. Those years(96-99) can have problems with the evap canisters coming apart internally. What happens is, the little charcoal pellets inside the canister, can get sucked up into your engine. The easy way to see if this is the problem, is to remove the purge solenoid valve on the left shock tower. You can spot it as one vacume line goes to the intake, and one goes to another valve, then to a hard line next to the brake lines. It has one connector attached. Remove the valve and tap on it and see if any pellets come out. It they do come out, you need to replace your canister(its still available from the dealer), and clean the lines and other valves of any pellets. You may have to replace other componets, if they are damaged. If you dont clean the lines and valves, you will have the same problem. Hope this helps...

Drive on out, I'll do it! You could write the trip off to a business expense! Mmmm.......sweet pathy love........ drools

I really doubt anyone repops them. I would try your local junk yard, or watch the for sale section. Someone might part out one to you. It will be tough though, 4cyls are not in great supply. I guess you could try Painless wiring or another similar company. Why do you need a whole harness? Can yours be repaired?

Well, being that the pathfinder and Qx4 are about the same thing, I talked with our parts manager and he said on our website, prices are cost + 25%. I did a quick check on how much those sensors are and, from the website, its about $60 apiece. Might be worth a shot. Infinitiaccessories.com

Well, it sounds like the speedo/odometer is failing. The speedo and odo are linked together and one can fail independantly. You may want to removed the cluster and tighten all the little brass screws on the back and see if that helps.

I was just wondering because there have been several memebers who have traversed many a deep mud hole and I havent heard of that happening.

Did you not have one of the timing belt covers on all the way? That seems like a lot of stuff in there to squeeze past the seals on the side and the overlap of the covers.

Are the power locks the only other thing that doesnt work? Im thinking the fuseable links are not connected somehow.

So, how many teeth was the belt off?

Im going out on a limb here and saying maybe you didnt get the tensioner set quite right on the belt.

So wait, there is no compression in all cylinders? Im going back to the timing belt issue. I think maybe it wasnt set up quite right, maybe jumped some teeth.

Uhhh, WD-40 actually stands for Water Displaced on 40th try.

Well, I have just unplugged the alarm unit before and drove home just fine. I would check codes at your computer(see how to section) and see if any codes are thrown and continue from there.

Take her to your local parts store. Usually they will come out to your rig and quick test your charging system. Could be a alternator if its having a hard time charging, the battery would go dead after a while.

You could also take your timing light and attach it to each plug wire one at a time. If your light flashes normally, that wire is probably ok. If it doesnt spark or is abnormal, you could temporarily swap in another wire and see if its the same. This would tell you if its just the wire or the delivery of spark.

So it hasnt ran since you replaced cam and crank seals? I guess that means you replaced the timing belt also? If this is the case, do what K9 said and recheck your timing marks. If you got the belt way off, you may of created more problems. Check the timing belt write up in the How to section for the alingment marks and procedure.

Keep some WD-40 on hand. You can spray it where water is and it will displace the water. If you are getting water in your cap, spray a little inside and then see if it runs better.

Just thought I would revive this thread as the show has brought the "Viewfinder" back. I watched it today and they put on a front bumper, removed the IFS and made new rear axle links. They also showed the measurements for the portal axles they will be putting under it. Should be on tomorrow, on Spike.

I will be doing this job in a couple of weeks and I plan on doing a writeup about it if you can wait.