5523Pathfinder

Yep, its the ECM. The lights are not just for displaying codes, when you are not in diagnostic mode, they are displaying the operation of your O2 sensor. when they flash back and fourth, thats good. Oh yeah, dont get it wet.

I would go get the code pulled. Even if its not on, the ecm should of stored a code. Go to any parts house, most will pull the code for free. Post it up and lets go from there.

Did you check and make sure nothing else is touching the starter wires after the replacement? Is everything hooked up correctly? You can try and disconnect the starter(be careful), then turn the key on and see if it still happens. Could be a bad unit. Did you disconnect anything else?

Sounds like a misfire. Was the problem there before you changed the plugs and wires? What plugs and wires did you use?

I repaired my mainfolds about 3 years ago(maybe a touch more, Its been a while), I found upon removal of my right manifold, someone had beenthere before. They really knew what they were doing. They used a aftermarket "stud" and installed it crooked. Upon removal, I found that they drilled out the old broken stud, but somehow messed up from threre, and slapped it back together haphazardly, so, it leaked again. I fixed it correctly to say the least, even with the old manifolds. I do recommend you getting the factory studs, as they are studs from the turbo motor in the 300zx. They survive better under high heat. Yeah, I dont know what the metal type is, but I cant think of one time where one has broken again and came back to me(thats counting about 100 or so manifold jobs). Make the parts guy give you a deal, they are only about a buck a piece, but they are trying to make thier money like anyone else. Oh, and yes, you can do it in the car as stated. If you dont have longer drill bits, hopefully you have a 90 degree drill(thats what I use). Or, go and buy a selection of longer drill bits, just get good ones. I have used a larger bit to begin drilling the "face" of the broken stud away. The broken stud leaves a burr behind and will dig into the head and keep you from removing easily. Use a smaller bit to drill into the now centered up stud, and use a extractor to remove. Its worth getting all 6, so you dont have to worry about it later on.

Go to the Garage section and go to the How-to's. There is a thread on how to check your codes at the ecm. Without knowing what codes you have, hard to help ya.

I dont think there is s step-by-step for drive belts. Belts are some of the easiest work you can do yourself. 1. Remove front lower splash shield. 2. Loosen belt tensioner mounting nuts(14mm). Only a few turns are necessary. 3. Loosen belt tensioner bolt counterclockwise(12mm). You may need a extension for this(6in). Back them off until you can slip the belt off, or when you are at the bottom of the adjusting bolt(do not force). 4. Slip the belt off of the pulleys and manuver around and off of the fan. Slide the rear belt off the compressor and crank pulley. 5. Installation is reverse of removal. Adjust belts tight, but dont get carried away. 6. Tighten tensioner mount bolt. 7. Start engine and listen for any noise. If the belts are noisey, adjust further as needed. 8. Reinstall lower splash shield. Hope that helps. If you have any mechanical skill, you should be able to do this rather easily. If you have any other questions, post them up.

This is from Alldata.... Refrigerant Oil Type SUNISO 5GS Refrigerant Oil Capacity 8.6 oz (US) Remember, this is just the oil, not the refridgerant. There should be a sticker on your hood telling you how much the system will take. Plus, when filling, you can use the sight glass to observe the refridgerant going in, when there isd no more bubbles, you are full. The system is R12, unless you have converted(you should see stickers installed saying so). I recommend you use a reputable A/C shop to service your system.

Dirt in the window glass channels. Lower the window down and spray WD40 or like wet lubricant(no need for rust penetrant) into the channel starting at the top and go down until it begins to drip out the bottom. Do both sides. Roll window up and down a few times and see if it helps. If its better, roll the window(s) up and leave them for 30 minutes or so. I do this every so often and works like a charm.

The sensor may not be your problem, as it would not cause the engine to sputter as you stated. What would cause the code to come up and creat the sputtering, is the EGR valve itself. See if its stuck open by pushing up on the diaphram with you fingers(not too hard now). If it doesnt move much, remove the vacuum hose to it and blow air into the valve to push it back down. If that works, try and start it and see if it idles better. You may just have a EGR valve that is weak. It would of also thrown the O2 sensor codes as it would of thrown off the air/fuel mixture.

You changed the other wheel cylinder? Did you bleed them afterwards? Im going with neediung to adjust the cylinder. Adjust until the drum barely slides over a bit snug, them back it off a touch.

I think Calmini is your only option and they only offer a 5 in lift. http://purenissan.com/2005_preview1.htm

Yes, thank you B! Scott couldnt find those things to save his live. I forgot to mention that I gave it a oil change, changed the wiper blades and lubricated the suspension and rear tire carrier. I also polished his windshield cause no matter how many times I cleaned it, you could barely see through it. We also got a new master window switch as it didnt want to work the right front or left rear windows(Scott posted that he used a maxima switch). Im sure I will remember more later.

So, now that this project is overwith, I would like to thank everyone for helping! Jims truck was quite a project. There certaintly were some challenges. I personally spent 30-40 hours working on his rig. Now, Im not trying to blow my own horn, I just want to let everyone who donated how hard both Scott (Redpath88) and I worked. We were really hoping for more help, but, it just worked out the way it did. I want to share the list of things that I wrote up, updated and, for the most part, completed. So here we go.... Catalytic Converter- This was cut out long ago. I was able to talk a friend out of one that was on his sisters wrecked Pathfinder. Scott had a temporary pipe made so it could be driven without sounding so hideous. He then took Jims truck down to a small exhaust shop in Centraila Washington, who gave us a great deal on having the Cat Converter welded in. The guy was very impressed by our story, but if you want more details, as Scott. Cooling System- This was a two part problem. First, the coolant was the color of the mud that was deposited back on Jims rig on Saturday. I completely flushed the cooling system and installed properly mixed 50/50 longlife coolant (donated by my dealer). The second half of this was..... Electric Fan & wiring- Well, after I got it running correctly(I will go on about that in a bit), Jims rig started to overheat. This worried me a bunch. I found some wires disconnected from the fan controller. We reconnected it and found that it didnt help. Did some searching online and found a wiring diagram for the controller and then verified that it was connected correctly. It did not activate the fan at all. I jumped power and ground to the fan and it worked. I then installed a new fan controller and that baby worked awesome. I barely adjusted the setting knob, and that needle didnt seem to go much past 1/2 way. Works like a charm! Radio- Jims truck was completely missing a radio. Now, to some, this might not seem like a big deal. You ever drive around with no radio? Sucks dont it? I happend to have a CD player laying around that I had removed from my Quest. I rewired it and installed it, and it worked. Jim now has a working radio. I may not be the best, but, gotta start somewhere. Headlamps, front grille, side markers- All of these were long gone. The wrecking yard that kept Jims truck for us, supplied us with some replacements. Only one problem, whoever removed the original lights, stripped and broke off the mounting bolts for the headlamps. I drilled out and retapped 3 different bolts. Installed the replacement lamps and grille. Found one headlamp retainer was broken, we got a replacement. Got all the lamps working but found the turn signals in the bumper were not working. Found the wires had been pulled from the connector. We repaired the connectors and got them all working. Front driving lights- These were mounted on Jims ARB bumper. They were very loose and we werent even hooked up as I found out. I found they were wired into the factory fog light wiring. The problem was, someone hacked the wiring and a lot of the circuits were disconnected. I used my rig as a example and rewired the lights to work properly. I soldered and sealed all of the repairs to prevent future problems. Brake system- When I first drove Jims truck around my neighborhood, the brakes felt very strange. I got his rig on jackstands and removed the wheels. I found mud caked into the calipers and into the drums. I hit them all with a pressurewasher and lubricated as needed. I then flushed his brake fluid as it was blacker than his tires. I also noticed the clutch fluid was the same, so I flushed it too. Both the brake pedal and clutch pedal felt way better. His truck now seem to stop properly and the clutch operation was much smoother. CB Radio- Once again, this doesnt seem to be a big deal to some. But Jim had a CB before, and we thought he should have one again. Scott donated a working Cobra CB and I custom mounted it under the center stack, just in front of the shifter. We did have to get a new cable and antenna. A local CB shop gave us a good deal on both(ask Scott for more details). I was able to hook up the PA speaker that was in his rig, and it all worked great. Front skid plate- Jims original front skid plate was long gone. I wasnt going to worry about it, but, I was concerned about stuff flying up into the engine bay and causing issues. I donated my old skid and installed it with new hardware. Battery and Hold-down- The battery that was in Jims truck was toast at the wrecking yard. We stopped at a local parts store and picked up a decent battery. I then found what I think was the original hold-down. I found it crammed down by the headlight and dang near missed it. I cleaned it up and reused it. Interior parts- A lot of interior pieces were either missing or damaged. Scott was able to obtain replacements including.... Center console lid, Glove box pins, both Sunvisiors, Left rear lower cargo side trim, Steering column covers, and door sill plate and clips. Now, I know I left out some others, so bear with me. Spare Tire- Jims spare tire was long gone. Scott found a replacement on Craiglist and picked it up. I then took the tire and rim to my work were I mounted and balanced the assembly. I then found out why there was no spare. While spinning, I noticed a large amount of wheel movment. Upon further inspection, I found the rim was bent. Inspected further and found no significant damage to the wheel. I instructed Jim that this will be his spare only! Unless he doesnt like his teeth. That would be a bumpy ride(even after balancing. Can you say 13.75 oz!) Front suspension- As many may have noticed from the video and pictures, the front of Jims rig did not sit right. I found that someone, at some point in time, had the torsion bars out(My guess was clutch replacement). I found that they were installed incorrectly. I reindexed the bars and adjust them to a much better height. We then found the front sway bar and links were long gone. Scott donated a replacement from his parts rig. He had to pick up some new links and bushings. He installed them and got the bar fitted correctly. Left Rear Taillight- Well, this was easy. I found the light was damaged. Scott picked up a replacement and I installed it, making sure all the lights worked properly. Engine Runablility- Ok, here we go. Jims truck did not run well when we got it. Backfiring, popping, missing. After moving it two times, It did not want to start a third time. The fuel tank was very low. I filled it with 5 gallons of new fuel, but still did not want to start. I wanted to check the ignition components so I pulled the plugs. I found someone had put brand new NGK plugs in. I gapped them as needed and cleaned them. They were covered with raw fuel. I sprayed the cylinders with brake clean to help the cylinders dry. After sitting for about 30 minutes, I reinstalled them and gave it another try. Popped and wheezed a few times, but no go. I thought I would give the starter a break, and moved onto something else. I came back and tried again. Finally, after almost 3 hours, I got it to idle, but not very well. I let it sit and idle for a while then reved it a bit. Some interesting clouds of smoke erupted from underneath. Once things got a bit more stable, I checked the timing and found it way off. I reset the timing to factory as needed. After more research, I found Jims truck had a few more internal, external and electrical mods. I bumped the timing two degrees and things seemed much happier. Jims truck continually ran better and better even as we gave it back to him. Air Filter- Jim had a cone air filter and adapter installed. I found the adapter was not held down very well and was letting dirt and stuff get into the Air flow meter. I took it apart and cleaned the Air flow meter. I tried to find a new adapter, but it wasnt that easy. So, I realigned the adapter and redrilled it to fit better and more secure. Reassembled and found all worked great. The Body- Jims truck was a mess from years of neglect, weather, grease marks and all out crap on the paint. I throughly cleaned the body with a pressure washer. Scott and his boys washed it and got it looking pretty good. He also went as far as to polish the wheels, which were also a mess. The day before we gave it back, I buffed with a medium compound to remove the crap. I then went back and polished with foam pad to give it a shine. I thought it looked a million times better. Some may say this was overkill, but as a whole group, the better is rig looked, the better he felt. He was very happy with the result. Now, its just up to him to keep it looking good.. Inspection- This was the most interesting challenge of the whole project. Being that Jims truck was in a wrecking yard, the title was marked and destroyed. This meant his rig needed to be inspected by the Washington State Patrol to verify it was roadworthly. Now, when I was in high school, you just drove up, they looked around and off you went. Now appently you need a appointment. Scott did all the leg work here. We wanted to give Jim his rig back sooner, but the appointment schedule was booked for weeks. Luckily, I dont know if Scott did some sweetalking or what, but were were able to fill a recently opening. This was very lucky. Scott took the Pathfinder and it passed the inspection with flying colors. Now, I know I may have left a few things out. Scott kept track of all the money and I think he was able to give Jim a few bucks back to help him with insurance or whatever. I hope this gives everone a little more insight into what all we did to get Jims truck back to operational status. Thanks for taking a few minutes to read this and if anyone has any other questions, by all means let me know. Derek

Ok, so its not custom, but it works! And its easily removable.

I would love to give you the easy answer, but there isnt one. Lift options have been covered 234237498273 times here. Use the search function and you will find lots of options, opinions and personal experineces. Not trying to be difficult, but this could take days to answer your question. You will find that some members who are not very active have good info, and you will not be relying on someone with less experience. Search is your friend!

I was able to use the previous temp probe position. So far so good. I will be checking the temp this weekend.

What did you have plugged in? There are updated sockets available to work a bit better with newer plug in devices.

Check your basics first. Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? Poke around and make sure nothing is disconnected, and let us know. Oh, the knock sensor will not cause the engine not to start. Even if you completly unplug it.

This has happend to many members. Do some searching and you will find that the evap canister comes apart and sucks the carbon beads up to the engine. Take the purge valve off and see if any beads are in it. The valve is on the right side of the engine bay, just above the shock tower. Clean it, the lines with air and replace the evap canister.

Well, I went for a test drive and the temp needle never went above half way. Like I said, I will bring the laser thermometer home on Tuesday night and maybe tinker a bit. All is well though.

I use 87. Average 19-20mpg. Im on the freeway alot. I have put 89 octane in and my mileage dropped.

Here's a little teaser. Dont mind the wierdo in the hat....

it had a fan, but the controller went out. The old controller isnt availble anymore and the new one was different. I have a laser thermometer at work Im going to bring home and see what temp it comes on. What temp do others have thier set at? I know the newer cars with e-fans dont come on until over 200 degrees. right now it comes on with the needle about half way.

Well, it finally got hot enough and ran. I dont have my temp probe here with me at the moment, so I dont know exactly what temp its coming on at. But it is working.