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are those glass IMSA flares? where did you get them... or are you a FG wizard?

are those glass IMSA flares? where did you get them... or are you a FG wizard?

nissan nut has his own website and has done more SAS's than most. i used his parts list and revised it to match my plans, and im looking at around 2300 total in parts incl. a complete grand wagoneer ($350), granted i already have shocks and a few of the other D44 part laying around but only a few hundred bucks worth. if you do it with leaf springs you could do it for less than half that

i heard google works for finding info also....

magic

by the time you dump all the money into the IFS to make it strong enough for 35's you will have spent enough to do the SAS. and with the IFS you will still have very little wheel travel in the front and uber flex in the rear. i say SAS it and do what nissan should have done from the start.

if you do make your own bolt down mounts make sure your "feet" have a large surface area to spread the weight over the sheet metal, you might also consider a backing plate for the inside to spread the load. if you get some 1/8" neoprene rubber you could cut some rubber gaskets to put between the feet and the roof, if everything is tight you shouldn't have to worry about leaks.

one more thing that makes for scary steering in 4wd... if you have a bad cv joint or some other drag on one side of the front suspension on loose snow or ice. under acceleration it will pull one direction and once you let off the gas it will jerk you back the other way. also if you dont have the bump stops on your suspension the cv's can bind under full droop and the steering wheel will take you for a ride if your not paying attention.

if you want cheap louvers go to a jy and find an older car that has a metal grill in front of the windsheild (i used on from a datsun 610 car) trim them out leaving about 1/4 to 1/2 all the way around and weld them in your hood. i did that to my '54 willy's truck, made a hell of a difference.

i have a similar setup and all i can say is stay away from water/mud or make a splash guard for it. if you go blasting through puddles (mudding as many on here call it) you could water on your AFM and you will go into limp mode.

sounds like you had a spark plug boot that was partially off, causing the spark to jump to the head, causing the tick, tick, tick.

the line to your fuel pressure regulator is manifold vacuum....

1 question... WHY?

sweet, im doing the xmas thing with my kids friday, but shoudl be available after that....

did you get a chance to read the chip yet? let me know.... i'll keep a lookout for an 87 or newer 300zx ecu so we can burn the eprom (eeprom?). or i can look on ebay for an 8bit eeprom chip so we can experiment. send me a link to the tuning software and email me the .bin files so i can play with them once you get them copied. oh and if your interested i know a few local kids that run SR20's and pay jim wolf around 650 per ecu to chip them and 150/shot to re-burn the maps in them. you could make some serious dough off the local ricers if you wanted to...

should have saved your money and put a solid axle under that thing.... you could build a damn baja truck for the outrageous amounts you guys dump into the IFS....

whats wrong with stacking shims, thats what there meant to do, you stack them up until you get the right thickness, im running mulitple shims on both front and rear bolts and i have aftermarket UCA's if you are afraid of the shims falling out, use flat washers instead of the c shaped alignment shims

the little plastic tab that holds the linkage in the door latch broke off, you need part# 80579 and 80510J, they ar a bitch to replace.. i just did mine, the local dealer told me i had to buy the compler latch assembly for 140 bucks ea., i got the parts from courtesynissan.com for $17 incl. shipping

there are magnetic oil heaters as well...

you probably bent the knuckle/spindle.... im sure someone on here will sell you one for 10 bucks..

get a new radiator or have yours rodded out....

i was thinking about the same thing, but was going to use some grey pvc sheet stock for the spacer, i already shortened the shifter by about 3" so i could use a longer shift handle and keep the length about the same.

does anybody on here have the NW fab tx-10 to d300 doubler? if so any write-write ups on it (other than on pirate4x4) ? the doubler thread on pirate4x4.com : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....ler&page=18

i flipped through the EF&EC section of my 87 FSM... no sign of any mention of CA emmisions in it( i could have missed it), in my 300zx FSM there is very little difference in the ECU's except the CA model uses the variable resistor part of the TPS and not just the idle switch... yes the z31's only used the idle switch portion of the TPS.

so it was the "performance" injectors?