bitemedoughboy.com

check youre auto parts stores, there is a cleaner made specifically for AFM's it leaves no residue and dry's uber fast.

the problem with full hydro is there is no feedback, and it does not self center like assisted gear boxes or rack and pinions. if you plan on running full hydro on a vehicle over 30mph you better get a good life insurance policy.

just curious what Grind everybody is running on their VG30's also has anybody done the lifter "shimming" to reduce the tick and slop associated with a re-grind?

all that horsepower is great but its useless in a trail rig if its not in the lower RPM range.... would be great for GT or drag racing, maybe CORR... a good ole N/A high compression engine making around 200-250 hp would be plenty for a properly geared trail rig. but if your building a mall cruiser go for the top end high reving engine.... but thats just my $.02 worth.

you cant file for lost title? another way around it is to find a friend at a wrecking yard, have them pick it up as "an abandoned vehicle" wait till they process it and buy it back from them. the wrecking yards can issue a new title on the spot with an abandoned vehicle sale.

i got my first nissan (datsun back then) at 15 it was a 1967 520 pickup, had an a13 engine in it. used to help my dad on it when i was younger than that. it had around 400,000 miles on it when i got it. i swapped out the entire cab and body all by myself. its good that you're starting young with big projects... its less likely you will become one of the bolt-on generation that cant build anything unless it comes in a kit.

the stock dodge turbo's are crap from what ive seen/read, they are really restrictive on the turbine side... you need a t3/t4 hybrid or something similar. or dual t-25's, they should spool up fairly quickly.

i used plenty of anti-seize lube on all the parts when i re-assembled mine.... and added a small washer just slightly smaller in diameter than the bolt head between the half round washer and the bolt head, i had problems with the socket slipping off. it makes it easier to count the turns if the damn thing stays on all the way around.

FYI dual 2.25" tubes are way bigger than a single 2.5" or 3" pipe cross sectional area of 2.25" pipe (inside) = 3.5466 sq. in cross sectional area of 2.5" pipe (inside) = 4.4301 sq. in cross sectional area of 3" pipe (inside) = 6.4918 sq. in do the math: 3.547 x 2 = 7.094 ie dual 2.25" pipes will flow more than a single 2.5" or 3"

i know what a snorkel looks like, i just wanted to see this one... havent seen too many on pathy's

:worthless:

hmm...... good to know, i just thought it was from the impact.... as for the turn lens you can get them new from several venders on ebay for less than 20 bucks shipped... for some reason i cant keep the left ones intact for very long (damn trees)

when i said wire feed, i meant MIG, not flux core. and TIG is highly too time consuming and overkill for any kind of production work other than with stainless or aluminum. and as far as needing a hydraulic mandrel bender to bend tubing for a exo cage, it would be nice to have and a hell of a lot fast, but a wet sand packed tube will bent good enough for a cage. especially if your doing the work yourself. wouldn't recommend it for a parking lot princess which tends to be the trend these days... not too many ppl that actually wheel their rigs.

for 1300 i could by a wirefeed, a hydraulic tubing bender and a buttload of tubing and fab up a full exo cage.... i must be in the wrong business...

From experience i can tell you that your "arch" isn't from heat, its most likely from a front end collision, you might want to get a carfax report on your vin # i t-boned a car at about 40 mph and the needle bent like that, i think its designed to do that so they can tell how fast you were going in an accident. the pathfinder I'm currently driving only has 1/2 the speedo needle, someone tried to straighten it and broke it off. and this one was in a collision also (the radiator support was all jacked up and you could see where it had formed around the frame and had been puled out)

the speedos are a "mechanical" instrument on the 1st gen. pathfinders.... sounds like yours is toast... there is one on eBay i been watching for a while now, i think its 80 bucks for the whole cluster...

thats what hammers and sawzalls are for... body lifts suck

i would just make sure you have the right radiator for your application... im not sure if nissan put different radiators in the a/c and non ac cars, but the radiator i used to have in my 4 cyl. non a/c rig had a single core and had plastic crimp on tanks. it got hot alot faster than the all copper 2 core i'm running now. as far as a mechanical fan pulling more air than an electric..... that all depends on the size of the electric... mine will suck your shirt into the radiator if your leaning against the bumper

how do you propose to install an intercooler on a manifold mounted super charger?

adding water capacity to a cooiling system does nothing but increase the time it takes for the engine to warm up. you need to increase surface area and air flow to extract more heat from the system. you might benefit from just adding an electric fan in front of the radiator. just wire in a relay to the a/c clutch power wire. or run it from a toggle switch so you can turn it on when the temp starts to climb. i have a 2-row all copper radiator in my '87, and am running dual fans from a ~88 maxima that had the vg30i. the maxima radiator is almost identical to the pathy's.... you do have to modify the drivers side fan bracket to clear the steering box. it cools like a champ. its currently around 105 outside. it really helps if you take the radiator to a shop and have them rod it out. and its really nice not having that monsterous fan mounted to the engine to throw mud around when you get in the deep stuff.

are you using a wire feed on all the welds? i would have stick welded the c's with a 6010 root and a 7018 cap. you wont get very much penetration with a wire feed on that heavy of metal....

if i remember right each tooth on the belt is 5 degrees. i was off by one tooth when i put my last timing belt on. it ran really strong on the bottom end but wouldn't rev past 5k. but that may have been an issue with my TBI at the time. check on vgpowered.com and Z31.com redz31.com had a lot of good info before they took the site down.

join the NPORA Gang!!!!

i have 2 or 3 extras if you want to go that route