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there is no difference other than the programing of the ecu.... that im aware of.

why not find a used Federal ECU for "tuning" and keep your cali ECU around in case you have to go in for emmisions testing. i just happen to have a spare ECU sitting on my kitchen counter.

pathfinders are 300zx's with bigger tires and a fat ass. i just de-soldered my guinea pig ecu and put a socket on it.... when it gets closer to freezing out (it was -5°f this morning, high around 15°) i will plug it into the pathy and see if my soldering is ok. then its up to indigent to get ahold of me so we can nuke the chip and see what happens. i kind of want to burn the stock pathfinder fuel/timing curves into mine (currently running 300zx ecu) to see if it improve the low/mid range.

sounds like you need to check the battery terminals and the connections at the starter. and/or get a good heavy gauge jumper cable and try to jump it again. most jumper cables are a joke and wont carry enough juice to jump start a rig. also try jumping it with the ground disconnected from the battery (connect the negative jumper cable to the block if possible). this will tell you if you have a bad battery.

EB axles are the only other D44 worth considering unless you go full width.. any dana axle under a 44 is crap

i have some stock injectors in a complete TBI... wanna buy it real cheap?

i really doubt a bad ECU could harm an injector... didnt you say that you have a injector wire that wasnt testing out?

it doesnt say that it will harm your new injectors it says it will harm a new ecu if you have a bad injector....

those there bolt holes in the rotor look to be a bit loose.... one thing to think about with drum brakes is they don't hold for @!*% in reverse. ever left the e-brake on and backed up? you don't notice it until you try to go forward.... now what happens when your on a steep nasty trail and you cant go forward any more and have to back down or hold your position? its all good if your front tires have a good grip. but if they don't your relying on those drums that don't like to hold when going backward. discs would be a major upgrade for anyone that wheels a lot. also that 2/3 1/3 braking ratio is the opposite when going back wards...

GOOD LUCK

noooooo... they have a head on them like a nail, they use a pneumatic to that spreads the hole int he tire and pokes the stud in. its a bitch to take them out by hand, good luck putting them in without a special tool.

let me check my inventory of spare parts this weekend and let you know what i have. if i have one i'll sell it cheap.

i seafoam a few times per year, so i doubt there is much crud in my engine. although my lifters have been getting worse, i have another set ive been meaning to take apart and clean (re-build) but i just havent gotten around to it.

the TBI units should be re-mappable as well, Lee (formerly of L&P) used the Pocket Romulator to reprogram his 1988 TBI that was supercharged. i have extra 87 & 88 ecu's if someone needs one

i have my kids this weekend, but i should be able to hang out for a little. i have a spare ecu that we can use for the test pig. ill look around and see if i can find my solder sucker and a eprom socket. PM me youre #

dude! im in yakima, and am running an '85 z31 ECU, been wanting to get a pocket romulator to re-map with. i'll be your guinea pig.... seems like the stock map for the z31 is set-up for top end and not mid range. also auto metrics in yakima has a chassis dyno

could be, but its still clean looking, i only run castrol gtx in my nissans, IIRC its 10w-40 thats in there. this morning it was about 26°f out and the pressure never got above 55 psi. i think im going to get a better oil gauge before i go tearing into the engine. the one i have now is a el cheapo ricer gauge from autozone. time for some autometer gauges. has anyone made a gauge pod for the A-pillar before? ive seen them fabbed for the 280z's before, i was thinking about making one up from a spare plastic pillar cover and some fiberglass.

not yet... someday

for those of you with mechanical oil pressure gauges (not a dummy light) what pressure ranges do you run at? when cold mine puts out around 40psi at idle to 75 psi, but once everything is toasty it wont make over 45 psi and at idle is around 5-10 psi. i havent had a chance to look at my FSM to check the specs yet but i think my oil pump is on a downward spiral. would a turbo oil pump from a vg30et or vg30det be worth the swap on a mostly stock vg30e? i also need to clean or replace my lifters soon, they're are a few that are ticking even when the revs are up on the engine. or could this be from the oil pressure?

one more thing, the FSM says 12° +/- 2° for the base timing, also the timing is based off of readings from: crank angle sensor, AFM, CHTS, & TPS i dont think the computer will allow it to advance too far if your off by 3°-5° as long as your total advance isnt over 34-36° you should be fine. my 280z is at full advance before 3k and has a base timing of 17° and thats with mechanical advance only.

have you tried using an timing light with the advance knob to see if there is any change in the total advance? if i remember correctly when i still had my tbi it didnt matter where the timing was set at the total advance was always the same.... you might check the total advance @ 12 degrees and @15 and see if there is a difference...

nope.... VSS is only for the cruise control and transmission computer its not even listed in the trouble shooting pages... i think you need to take a tester to each one of your wires and test for continuity and/or shorts also check your resistances at the ecu plug and at each sensor they should be the same if not you have a bad connection or wire. even if a plug looks clean it may or may not be making good contact.

here are the FSM pages that you should need, theyre not perfect.... http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC42.pdf http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC74.pdf http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC75.pdf http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC88.pdf http://www.bitemedoughboy.com/pdf/EFEC89.pdf

something is triggering "limp" mode....

i know this is slightly unrelated but from a Nissan. in my '87 with the 300zx ECU i couldn't get it to run in "closed loop" mode, according to the FSM you are supposed to adjust the mixture feedback ratio until the lights blink simultaneously, and if you cant get them to blink at the same time, it tells you to replace the AFM. well i tried 2 different AFM's that i know to be good, and i get the same thing. so after scratching my head for a few days and searching every known z31 site i decided to change the o2 sensor. after that it ran like a top, and all the lights were blinking like they should. although everything pointed to the AFM it was the O2 sensor the hole time...... i would start with the less expensive o2 sensor and go from there.