bitemedoughboy.com

sounds like you had a spark plug boot that was partially off, causing the spark to jump to the head, causing the tick, tick, tick.

the line to your fuel pressure regulator is manifold vacuum....

1 question... WHY?

sweet, im doing the xmas thing with my kids friday, but shoudl be available after that....

did you get a chance to read the chip yet? let me know.... i'll keep a lookout for an 87 or newer 300zx ecu so we can burn the eprom (eeprom?). or i can look on ebay for an 8bit eeprom chip so we can experiment. send me a link to the tuning software and email me the .bin files so i can play with them once you get them copied. oh and if your interested i know a few local kids that run SR20's and pay jim wolf around 650 per ecu to chip them and 150/shot to re-burn the maps in them. you could make some serious dough off the local ricers if you wanted to...

should have saved your money and put a solid axle under that thing.... you could build a damn baja truck for the outrageous amounts you guys dump into the IFS....

whats wrong with stacking shims, thats what there meant to do, you stack them up until you get the right thickness, im running mulitple shims on both front and rear bolts and i have aftermarket UCA's if you are afraid of the shims falling out, use flat washers instead of the c shaped alignment shims

the little plastic tab that holds the linkage in the door latch broke off, you need part# 80579 and 80510J, they ar a bitch to replace.. i just did mine, the local dealer told me i had to buy the compler latch assembly for 140 bucks ea., i got the parts from courtesynissan.com for $17 incl. shipping

there are magnetic oil heaters as well...

you probably bent the knuckle/spindle.... im sure someone on here will sell you one for 10 bucks..

get a new radiator or have yours rodded out....

i was thinking about the same thing, but was going to use some grey pvc sheet stock for the spacer, i already shortened the shifter by about 3" so i could use a longer shift handle and keep the length about the same.

does anybody on here have the NW fab tx-10 to d300 doubler? if so any write-write ups on it (other than on pirate4x4) ? the doubler thread on pirate4x4.com : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....ler&page=18

TTT

i flipped through the EF&EC section of my 87 FSM... no sign of any mention of CA emmisions in it( i could have missed it), in my 300zx FSM there is very little difference in the ECU's except the CA model uses the variable resistor part of the TPS and not just the idle switch... yes the z31's only used the idle switch portion of the TPS.

so it was the "performance" injectors?

there is no difference other than the programing of the ecu.... that im aware of.

why not find a used Federal ECU for "tuning" and keep your cali ECU around in case you have to go in for emmisions testing. i just happen to have a spare ECU sitting on my kitchen counter.

pathfinders are 300zx's with bigger tires and a fat ass. i just de-soldered my guinea pig ecu and put a socket on it.... when it gets closer to freezing out (it was -5°f this morning, high around 15°) i will plug it into the pathy and see if my soldering is ok. then its up to indigent to get ahold of me so we can nuke the chip and see what happens. i kind of want to burn the stock pathfinder fuel/timing curves into mine (currently running 300zx ecu) to see if it improve the low/mid range.

sounds like you need to check the battery terminals and the connections at the starter. and/or get a good heavy gauge jumper cable and try to jump it again. most jumper cables are a joke and wont carry enough juice to jump start a rig. also try jumping it with the ground disconnected from the battery (connect the negative jumper cable to the block if possible). this will tell you if you have a bad battery.

EB axles are the only other D44 worth considering unless you go full width.. any dana axle under a 44 is crap

i have some stock injectors in a complete TBI... wanna buy it real cheap?

i really doubt a bad ECU could harm an injector... didnt you say that you have a injector wire that wasnt testing out?

it doesnt say that it will harm your new injectors it says it will harm a new ecu if you have a bad injector....

those there bolt holes in the rotor look to be a bit loose.... one thing to think about with drum brakes is they don't hold for @!*% in reverse. ever left the e-brake on and backed up? you don't notice it until you try to go forward.... now what happens when your on a steep nasty trail and you cant go forward any more and have to back down or hold your position? its all good if your front tires have a good grip. but if they don't your relying on those drums that don't like to hold when going backward. discs would be a major upgrade for anyone that wheels a lot. also that 2/3 1/3 braking ratio is the opposite when going back wards...