bitemedoughboy.com

have you tried courtesy Nissan? they're about 1/4 the price of my local Nissan dealer and they have parts that the local Nissan dealer says are "not available" when i was in there picking up a part, they had some guy convinced he had to buy a whole door latch to get the little plastic tab that slides on the linkage from the lock cylinder, i found them at courtesy for less than $3 each. they charged the guy $148 to fix a $3 part.

probably from a mercury villager aka Nissan quest

those are fighting words to some..... but it would probably work with a little trimming and some ghetto fab work

i bought one on ebay for 15 bucks its almost 3" thick, theyre priceless check the connector on the AFM, next step is to take it out and douche it with some AFM cleaner or rubbing alcohol. also try disconnecting your o2 sensor and see if it runs better

get a FSM and run the ecu codes its that simple.... if the AFM is bad it will go into "limp" mode thats why it wont go over 2800 rpms

grill.... i haven't had one in years, the last good one i had didn't like that deer that committed suicide on my bumper.

im using the MPI from a 300zx on my pathfinder and the base timing is 15-20 degrees per the FSM for the z31 .... and as far as how much the ecu controls the timing... have you looked in the FSM for the tbi pathfinders?

i think im going to go the HB route, they use the same 5x7's that the heeps use, and there are a lot of aftermarket lenses and bulbs for them. i was thinking the 55w/100w bulbs eventually. i don't know if they're legal in Washington or not, but i know a lot of the heeps have them and get away with it.

ive done that also, even rtv'd the balls in so they would rattle....

i will have to keep a look out for some... just got a new DD so i can spend more $$ on the pathy...

i pulled one of my lights off a '92, and the parts places list them from 87-93 as being the same unit, i did some searching on ebay and found the 5x7 generic lights for the hardbody... does anybody around here have any hardbody headlight frames for sale?

the problem is they bounce around on the rocky and washboard roads and the mounts get loose and then break, the ball end of the screws come out of the upper mounts then the rest break off real soon after that. dont the hardbody's and the pathfinders have the same lights?

does anyone else on here besides myself have a problem with the stock headlights breaking alot while wheeling? ( by wheeling i dont mean driving through puddles in the road). im on my 2nd or 3rd headlights on both sides the plastic tabs keep breaking off the headlights.... has anybody replaced them with say a GM or Heep rectangular headlight? something thats made out of metal?

as long as the DE doesnt have variable valve timing, then the KA24E harness should work just fine.

i know about schneider thats what motorsport auto sells for the z's.... im running the 274/274 480/480 in my 280z... i like that grind, im curious if i would have the same results in the vg30 as i did in the l28...

im using a z31 ecu in my '87 pathfinder, but i re-wired the hole thing, and as far as the injectors being different this is true but they should have the same flow rate if they are stock. the only problem i have noticed is the z31 fuel curve are set up for top end power, also the z31 only runs in closed loop between below 3k rpm's after that it switches from 3 injectors per batch to all 6 firing at the same time. and the fuel economy goes to @!*% after that. i am considering switching to mega squirt in the future, i dont like the map on the z31 ecu and i dont like the idea of a romulator or paying jim wolfe 600 bucks to re-map the ecu. also last i checked all the vg30's had the same heads, they're may be different casting #'s but theyre basically the same heads.

the KA24E was available in the newer hardbodies, so a KA24DE swap would be simple if you had the computer and wiring harness from the donor car. if you could get the compression up to at least 10:1 with a good cam grind it would make decent power.

where did you get the cams from, i couldnt find that grind on 4x4parts.com or @ motorsport auto

you dont want wheel "spacers" you want "wheel adapters" the better ones are dot approved. wheel adapters look like this: wheel spacers look like this and are dangerous if used over 3/8"-1/2" thick:

You could stuff a turbo on the KA24DE and make some sick power, but it would be worthless off road unless you were running some really low gears (numerically high)

keep us posted on how it runs when you get it in there....

what grind are your running?

how fast do you think that 4" tip will make your pathfinder go? this isnt the honda forum

one thing to remember when doing all these calcs on area and whatnot.... at any given time only one cylinder is firing, and the exhaust is not a constant flow, it is a series of pulses so regular flow formula's do not apply. thats why an engine with smaller exhaust pipes and a tuned tri-y header will out perform and engine with a huge exhaust and plain headers..... and on another note, if you headers that have the right size primary tubes and are the correct length what you bolt up to them from their doesnt matter unless it is excessively restrictive. the scavenging effect should take place in the header and not in the exhaust pipe

it looks kinda silly with them sticking up that far above the roof.... would look better if you had a roof rack