bitemedoughboy.com

if some bodys dumb enough to go balls out around a corner on their maiden voyage thats what usually happens.

thats doesnt look like much triangulation, hows the side to side movement? let us know how it handles on/off the trail.

Motor oil is for engines.... power steering fluid is hydraulic fluid, basically the same as ATF just replace the darn box, 4 bolts, 2 hoses, a pitman arm and the rag joint and its out of there... my box is oozing from the input shaft seal plus it feels like im driving a ford with all that slop in the wheel. so mine is coming out real soon.

Amtrak has cheap freight service, its slow and has to fit on a pallet. plus they only deliver to terminals, so you have to pick it up from their terminal.

*edit* its the same engine less the s/c... all of the VG engines use the same block and therefore the same tranny bolt pattern.

mine does the exact same thing. but once its warm its fine.

your shocks shouldnt hit the arms period. something is not set up right if they are hitting. is the camber and caster correct?

any more updates?

IF you let it warm up all the way to 160 or what ever the temp is that the ECU switches to closed loop. or after the ecu cuts the fuel enrichment which is above a certain temp. you would have to look in a FSM to find out what those values are.

nothing wrong with welding a whole and re-drilling and reaming it.

too soft? not such a thing, too stiff yes... if it holds the rig up its not too soft.

that would be sick... if i ever win powerball i'm going to put an rb26dett in my 280z that would be sick with a bob sharp style IMSA widebody

Unless your building a mall crawler, you shouldn't go over 35" with a D44 front. they wont last long. for 38's you need to find a D60

if your going to do a swap why not do it right and go big from the start, your initial cost for the rb might be a grand higher than a sr20, but you really want the low end power that an rb will put out, not some peaky little sr20. that rb can put out 500+ with very little work.

you should have bought a 1st gen z.... z31's are too heavy to start with. can you even fit one under the hood? you should post this over on zcar.com or on hybrid z

x2 i have the same problem in my '87 in the winter, im getting around 9-10mpg it barely gets warm even when i let it warm up, and the tranny oil is thick as molasses this time of year.

nissannut.com or pm nissan nut, he might be nice enough to email it to you... next time use the search thingy, this was covered about a week ago.

you know them things will run on straight vegetable oil.... ask indigent he had a tdi terrano once

i had a bad cv joint and in 4wd it jerked the steering wheel just a little everytime the axle went around. when it got worse after a few days of driving in the snow it would almost jerk the wheel out of my hands as it bound up. and IF his hubs were locked or stuck like most of the POS auto hubs it would jerk in both 2wd and 4wd if he had a bad cv or one that had crud in it from having a ripped boot.

do you have manual hubs? if you do disconnect them and if the shimmy stops then its your cv joints...

doesnt work unless you unbolt the xfer case first... tried it the first time i did the drop. it gets easier after a few times. but it still sucks ass

look up in the upper right hand corner of this web page.... and click on the little box that says search, this topic has been covered many times before..

when he gets done the only thing R50 about it will be the body...

are you going to run a d60, d70 or 14 bolt in the rear?

one suggestion.. put some armor on it on the driveline side, if you fragg the front u-joint the drive line could go through that aluminum plate like it wasnt there.... are those fox air shocks? i was considering them... is this going to be a trailer queen or are you planning on driving it to the trails?