bitemedoughboy.com

you can swap in a Dana 44 from a 81-91 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, i dont know if they are available in your area or not. do a search on this site for "SAS" (Solid Axle Swap) and also look at www.nissannut.com

correct me if im wrong, but doesnt the iacv compensate for electrical loads? ie heater blower, head lights, and a/c clutch.... its not triggered by vacuum just the electrical signal from those devices.

so back to the squeal.... it seams to have stopped for now, but i noticed a drag in the tranny in neutral. after i started it this morning i let out the clutch and the thing moved forward just a tad. normally when its cold i notice a little drop in rpm, just enough to be noticed. i hope i don't have a bearing going tits up on me. i just put that damn thing in there. im going to check my fluid level tomorrow after work in the heated shop (working in a wet driveway in 40 degrees is not fun)

definitely not the brakes.... and i got the Chinese bearings from Schucks... aka Kragen (partsamerica.com) they are a low end bearing imported by SKF "A bearings", but they have china printed on the races. they were 11.99 for the inners incl the races. the next ones up were 27 for the inners, if i wasnt planning on cutting the IFS off in the near future i would have sprung for the better bearings. i'm gonna give it a run at freeway speed tomorrow now that i can since i fixed my scary steering.

ok, i fixed my idler arm and build a brace for it (will post a thread on that in a bit) and now no more noise... i only drove a few miles from the shop to my house. will take it for a longer drive in the am and see if things change. could it have just been from the fawked up alignment from the bent idle arms in conjunction with the cheap chinese bearings?

STARTS AT ABOUT 25-30 MPH i dont think so, only have driven it short distances in town, no sweeping corners so i have to slow down to make the corners. when i put the tranny in earlier this year.... but it really sounds like its coming from the front.. but i can check the erl in the xfer. not yet... stock IFS for now

ok i went wheelin last week end. got a little trail damage nothing to major other than bending the idler arm. on the way home in 2WD the steering was really sensitive (assumed to be because of the idler arm) and was randomly jerking the wheel a little, i figured this was from bump steer or something. well the next day when i go to drive to work i started to get this really bad bearing squeal from what sounded like the DS front wheel. so i repacked the wheel bearings (the inners looked a little dry) and took it for another spin, after about 1 mile it started up again. i figured that the inner bearing was toast so i went and picked up another one last night and put it in new race and all. and went for a drive, the damn thing is still squealing, but not all the time. the outer bearings had no sign of wear and were well greased, could the outers be the noisy ones? i thought maybe it was the bearing in the hub, but they are tight and well greased as well. these bearings maybe have 3000 miles on them since i replaced them last. could bad alignment cause premature bearing failure? my toe was way out, i had almost 1.25" difference from front to back. today while driving to get lunch it wasnt squealing at first but then i hit a bump and it started squealing again, then when i hit another bump it stopped for a little while. i hope that its not the tranny. i just put that one in earlier this year. it was a 150k mile used one. i thuroughly cleaned it inside and out before installing it. added the extra oil through the shifter hole and also made sure i used gl-4 oil. if it was the notorious tranny noise from improper oiling. would the noise come and go or would it be constant? one more thing, the squealing quiets down if i ride the brakes. but that could be either the bearings or the tranny. couldnt it? i need some fresh thoughts on whats going on here. thanks in advance

the shims on my pads clip on the end of the pad.... ive never heard of glued on shims

cool one less thing i have to worry about.

you might pull the upper timing belt cover and make sure you dont have a belt that is coming apart

how well does the stock brake master cylinder handle the huge D44 calipers? do you have to modify the proportioning valve to accommodate the huge brakes?

the TBI engines are known to run lean on one side and rich on the other thats why they put the o2 sensor after the y-pipe to get an "average" reading from the 2 sides of the engine. and thats also why the TBI engines made less HP than the MPI engines. i just wanted to know weather or not a few small leaks could throw off the computer enough to cause a rich condition all the time....

im not using the TBI, so it doesnt have to be after the y-pipe. the 300zx had it mounted a few inches below the flange on the drivers side.

how sensitive to exhaust leaks are the o2 sensors in our pathfinders? currently im running the stock o2 sensor in the original location (after the y-pipe). i have several leaks in the exhaust upstream from the o2 sensor, 1 at the drivers side manifold flange and one in the crossover pipe where it has been cut and re-attached. im too cheap to fix the damn exhaust because im holding out for a set of headers. my question is can those small leaks siphon air in and cause a false lean reading? im not running the stock TBI, i replaced it with MPI from a 300zx with the upper plenum from a 200sx and i just got a new o2 sensor (the one for the 300zx donor car) and i'm thinking about sticking it in the downpipe on the passengers side so that its in a hotter spot on the exhaust and also should be a more accurate reading because i have no leaks on that side.

your brake booster has got a leak in it....

thats the reason your not supposed to use gl-5 in any modern sycro'd tranny. its great for old iron gearboxes and rear ends.

have you checked your tires for foreign objects? could also be a zip tie around your driveline.... thats a nasty prank you can play on some one....

sounds like you might have a ground issue....

if you're talking about the tabs that stick down off the frame for tow hook attachment hack the buggers off, and as far as the rockers, i've seen a few pathfinders that have had them cut out and rectangular tube steel put in their place as a rock rail.

i could swear the "O" in NPORA, was for OFF... ass in OFF ROAD, not ON ROAD....

if you're goin to all that trouble you might as well stuff a D44 under there and do it right the first time.....

HERE IS ONE VG30 LIFTER REBUILD PAGE: VG30 LIFTER REBUILD HERE IS THE WRITE-UP ON MAKING A "SOLID" LIFTER THAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT: SOLID/HYDRAULIC LIFTER HYBRID.. ON Z31.COM

LOL, on one of the z31 sites there is a write-up on how to take apart the lifters (they are a very simple little setup) how to clean them, measure the total amount of "lash" and how to shim them internally so that there is a limited amount of give in them, so they have less tendency to collapse at high rpm and they will rattle less at low rpm. i'm trying to find the article but for some reason i cant find it, but when i do i will post it up for everybody.

do you mean square feet? a tape measure works really good for figuring those things out.

Calmini makes a setup: his system is a new, complete replacement set designed to correct the chronic problem of a worn idler arm and center drag link. The system includes a new precision machined Pitman & Idler Arm assemblies from billet 4140 heat treated alloy. The new idler arm rides on full replacement 3/4" pivot bracket using a much enlarged friction surface a durable Bronze bushing. Bracing the new idler arm to the vehicle is a fully incorporated idler arm brace that strengthens the entire unit. Also included in the system is a completely new Center Drag Link made from 1 1/8” x .250” wall thick DOM tubing. The center drag link uses beefy off the shelf 11/16” McQuay Norris tie rod ends for maximum strength and durability. The Center Drag Link is completely re-buildable and parts can be purchased from us directly. Lastly, the kit includes new replacement tubular tie rod adjustment links that due to the system's change in configuration, are longer than stock. This added length helps reduce bump steer angle over stock. Uses stock outer tie rod ends. This system is simple, durable, completely serviceable, and requires no modification to stock parts or vehicle. Intended for both on and off-road use. The entire kit is finished in Zinc 1 silver plating for the ultimate in durability. VEHICLE PART NUMBER PRICE 1987-92 Pathfinder WD21 NP12451 $629.95 1992.5-95 Pathfinder WD21 NP12452 $629.95