Tungsten

The symptoms of a leaking O-ring are: Smell of gas! The bugging out at partial throttle part is sensor related. Clean your MAF sensor and possibly replace the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor.

The front speaker room is very limited. What is the biggest size a 91 can fit? 5x7, 6x8? I was considering the pillar tweeters too.

For those of you that can't access the link, that stuff is called Peel and Seal, which can be bought quite cheaply at a home improvement store. Why not? I don't always drive alone in my truck. Sometimes I have the back seats filled too and all my passengers want music.

Here is something thats just as good for 1/10th the cost: http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0__?productId=1018733&Ntt=peel+and+seal&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpeel%2Band%2Bseal#prod-tabs

I don't know if I want HF directly into my ear... I had a talk with a sound engineer the other day and here is what I got out of it: 1. The Japanese tin can does not sound good from factory and has to be covered in Dynamat from the inside. 2. Regarding the whole rear pods vs. rear headliner thing, the rear speaker pods are much better because the speakers are boxed instead of sharing a bracket in the roof. Also, bigger speakers are always better. 3. The head unit must have a sub-woofer output. 4. The sub-woofer must have a built in amplifier or be connected to an external amplifier. 5. A low cut for the speakers is desired but not necessary at low volume levels. That will send the low frequency to the sub-woofer and the higher frequencies to the speakers. 6. A good set of at least 4 speakers is a must have. If desired, it is possible to add tweeters and an additional crossover. 7. For louder sound, all channels need to have amplifiers. It may be necessary to replace factory speaker wiring with better speaker wire.

they are expensive for any pathfinder magnaflow is the best oem cat replacement for the dollar

I have the same problem here and replacing the temp sensor did nothing for me. I have a new O2 sensor as well but the thing with the O2 sensor is it will stop you from bogging because it kicks in when the engine gets warmed up. I'm thinking it's probably the MAF sensor circuit.

that's weird because it looks like the bracket is not clearing the drain on the sun roof

wow you bought a TURD traitor!!

just undo the black panel around the cluster

I just checked, the sunroof bracket, if it exists, must be different. The one I picked up was for a non-sunroof model and it doesn't clear the sunroof drain by just a few millimeters. I will put up a picture in a bit. Time to get the grinder out!

The problem isn't the stock cooler itself, it is the size of it. The stock cooler provides inadequate cooling for the transmission causing the transmission fluid to break down quickly and clog up the cooler with sludge and shavings. Just flushing the fluid, replacing the filter, and upgrading the cooler alone will fix all problems with the transmission. You can bypass the stock transmission cooler in the bottom tank or you can run it in a series but only if you get a brand new radiator.

I think only the non-sunroof equipped trucks had map lights. You can safely buy that part as the sunroof has nothing to do with this. It just had to do with the fabric headliner, which you can cut up.

Finally I found this thread!! I'm in the process of doing the same thing myself and have already stripped the headliner out. I couldn't figure that bracket out but now I got it. Thanks!!

I hope you bought the ECU and the oxygen sensor to go along!

First of all, awesome work! I'm anticipating a comparison of the pathy intake plenum to a 300zx intake plenum on a Z31 motor in a Pathfinder. So did you move that MAF sensor closer yet or is that still holding? I missed the part that it was about 2.5 feet away on the stock Z31 application. In that case there should be a small difference moving it closer to the throttle body. BTW, If the motor shakes, it won't ram the plenum into the firewall will it? That intake looks a little close in terms of clearance to me. Here are some useful links to read (if you haven't done that already): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VG30E#VG30E http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_300ZX#Z31 You can see what was done to the VG engine over time. Maybe the 5 extra hp came from the new injection method?

x2 I use either Mobil 1 synthetic or Motul synthetic oil with a Mobil 1 or a Nissan OEM filter. I never tried 10W-30 for the summer but that is acceptable. 5W-30 for winter definitely. Tip: Use the placard on the hood (if you still have it ) FYI: Do your own research and don't be the idiot that reads Cuntsumer Reports

All I can say is you are a genius for using the Torx bit. Nicely done!

PICS PLEASE

looks like it's for the headlight

once you get those out of the way and get the ignition system sorted you should have a long running engine

nice, thanks

http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/steering/485-steering-linkage/-c-5572_5573_5683_5686.html looks like they're the same

You had a broken hose and it is normal for fuel to squeeze out of it. If you just disconnect the lines at the fuel sender and leave the gas cap closed, in a perfectly sealed tank, fuel will come out of the feed nipple. I know this because when I went to replace the seal on the gas tank between the sender and the tank, I forgot to leave the gas tank open so when I tightened it up, fuel just started gushing out of the sender. Fuel vapors inside will pressurize the fuel out of the fuel tank.

When you open the cap, the air rushes into the tank.