Tungsten

pulley

Go VG33E, you don't need to swap the ECU. Also,

A N/A VG, especially stock or close to stock, will benefit from 87 the most. A VQ will not, they need to be ran on premium, otherwise weird things will happen, like more carbon deposits, even when the computer re-adjusts the timing. The current gas system is retarded, I think 91 should be cheaper than 87. It's not how good the gas is, it's for what kind of compression it's made to run.

If you can't move out of park, it is that stupid shift lock solenoid, I already replaced that a while back.

A VQ will typically get 14 mpg. Think about it, that thing is full time 4x4 and heavy.

Yep, you have to run what the engine has been designed for but regular fuel does have more energy in it than premium fuel. If you put premium into a car designed for regular it could be more hesitant and get less gas mileage. If you put regular into a car designed for premium then the engine can have a risk of detonation because of the increased amount of compression and compressing "too much" energy which will make the ECU retard the timing (for safety) and decrease the gas mileage.

ran with regular for a while and was finally convinced to try synthetic now run synthetic oil and it does make quite a difference in how smooth the engine works and i haven't lost a drop but prior to trying synthetic i have replaced the rear main seal and all the crank seals when doing the timing belt

My key release button on the steering column stopped functioning correctly. Can anyone tell me what can be wrong? Where should I look for diagnostic information? Anything? Here is some more detailed info: If I unplug the battery, the button works right after turning the key to any position. The button also works right if I don't turn the key to the ON position with the battery plugged in. However if I try to take the key out after driving, it won't let me and I have to use that little switch inside to take the key out.

He painted it

I finally did it and with good results! Original connector: Some splicing: The colors of the wires on the new connector were different from the old connector. New -> old connects like this Red -> White Black -> Black White -> Black striped New connector: Extra ground that goes from the pigtail:

Also decided to add some light up visors.

I decided to go a different route with my setup. I wanted to relay the entire door switch ground system to the body ground. For the time being, I put the circuit through one button in the map light. When I get the map light set up right, I will end up jumping the door switch ground to the body ground via the relay, which I can do in the map light because of how I wired it.

i like the way my 91 gauges look at night

my point was that you can gain performance without losing out on fuel economy stock VG engines are also pretty good when it comes to mpgs (as long as nothing is broken anyway)

or you could trade for a qx4 i think the pathy front end looks better than a qx4

that looks amazing on the X

amazing work

avoid digital, they are a pain in the ass to calibrate an analog inclinometer is always best

Just an update on this, it may be the connector at the MAF sensor itself. The only remedy to fix this is to actually cut the old connector off and crimp a new one on.

It's not hard in theory but take a look at all the bends they will have to put and all the flanges and hangers that they will have to attach.

There was no recall because this is not a safety issue. In Japan there is a saying that goes like "if it smells, cover it" and that's what they do. A recall would have much more of an impact to the automaker rather than just pretending the problem didn't exist and dealing with individual consumers. By the way, that's a helpful link!

here is the deal on this you can use a parts store 2.00 system after the thorley headers if you buy 2.25 components then you will need a muffler shop to fab up a custom exhaust with flanges, hangers, etc 2.00 and 2.25 have no difference in power either