Tungsten

Yeah on my torque wrench I have TIGHT, and SUPER TIGHT! BTW anyone else looking at this, the torque is around 5.1-5.8 ft/lbs.

Yeah I got it now, thanks guys.

So it will come off by just those 6 small bolts? Do you know the torque setting for those things?

The timing marks on my crankshaft pulley do not line up with the arrow properly as they are about 120 degrees off. I don't think the harmonic balancer is that off because I assume that it is keyed to the crankshaft. I think for some reason Nissan made the pulley and the balancer separately. Is it possible to rotate the crankshaft pulley to make the marks line up without taking everything apart? I am thinking about rotating the pulley back into place the next time I have to change the V-belts. Right now I have a new timing mark on the pulley that was put on with a sharpie by a shop so that they could put the timing at 15 BTDC without taking things off.

never heard of dimmers going bad before but it does look like the problem in this case try a voltmeter first to see if any power is going from the dimmer switch or from the harness that connects to the switch

No, you go to a junkyard and add all the features YOU want.

calsonic crap has been an issue on many pathfinders, they can't make anything right

manual hubs also make it easier to snap the cv axle you are applying torque to

A picture would help.

old trick jam a screwdriver into the valves and straighten those things back out

Now this is interesting as that bulb should see almost no wear because it's almost never on (unless you're cheap and don't put enough gas in).

There is a drain plug in there that you can pull out to drain all the @!*% out of the clutch.

try sea-foaming the engine through the intake (brake booster intake line) and change the oil i had that problem when my engine was carboned up as hell inside

You are talking about BORLA here, they have a reputation to hold up.

Typical...I saw it done before.

anything can be done just not everything is easy even the 3.3 into wd21 swap is not as easy as most people think it is

Also, note that they said $15,000 is only for the FIRST unit. Mass produced units, I'm sure, if they were ever made, would be sold for around $500 a unit. Borla does actual research on pipe diameter and pipe length and pipe bends and all that fun stuff. It's not JUST a pipe, it's a performance pipe! You can put a system together for like $300 but how would you know which specs are the best for the vehicle?

these hippy retards think that using more ethanol will make the air cleaner that is such bs because using ethanol on a car made before like 03 will actually lower fuel savings and increase emissions and possibly even wear out the engine faster newer cars can take advantage of ethanol but the difference is negligible and they too will get lower gas mileage on it this could also be an excuse to dissolve our gas with that piss so that they could extract that extra 15% out of you

I would say that the general consensus is use the gas that grants you the most miles per gallon. Yes, I hate ethanol so much I try to avoid it too, it makes the engine under perform.

From my experience Pep-Boys seems to have a much better selection and pricing than AutoZone, even though I wouldn't shop in either one unless I was buying something like a detail spray or a can of paint. I do recommend NAPA auto parts but stay away from their service. CarQuest is pretty good but that's not always around and depends on where you live.

I find that my pathy (vg30e) likes somewhere between 87 and 89 octane fuel.

PROBLEM SOLVED The key release button has an extra feature which senses that you are in PARK before it lets you yank the key. You can go and try to diagnose it but I think you will have to take the console apart (thing with arm rest). As a temporary (or a permanent if you are lazy) fix, you can easily disable the key release safety switch. Use the steps below to do just that. 1. Pry out the plastic ring around the key 2. Take the plastic housing off the steering column (6 screws hold it together) 3. Locate the white plastic housing behind the key lock cylinder, it should be obvious, it is the thing with the key release lever 4. Track the two wires that come from the housing, they should lead to a bundle of connectors 5. Locate a GREEN connector and unplug it, you will see the wires going to it 6. Test and re-assemble Now can a mod pin this please!

I say forget front limited slip, those CVs will take a beating with that.